Now it is about two more “Fingers of the Peloponnese Hand”! In this context you have to be aware of the fact that this most southern part of mainland Greece is like a left hand directed downwards. In the paragraphs to be followed I go into the “East/Monemvasia Finger” and the “Middle/Mani Finger”. The “Peloponnese Hand” is where my husband and I went end of October last year. Traveling this Greek region steeped in history was a rewarding thing to do! And tourists at this time of the year were not plentiful. Find details of the whole trip in the next paragraph. After this, I will let you know what to do plus where to go for best hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants in the mentioned “Fingers”.

Before elaboration further, there is again my Google Map of our Peloponnese and Athens itinerary. It comes with all the upscale lodging we stayed and the (fine-dining) spots we ate.

Peloponnese & Athens in style, the itinerary overview

My travel report is split in four parts. My last post – part one – went into the trip outline, some general information and the first “Peloponnese Finger”, the “Thumb”. The latter is the region of Argolis with the town of Nafplio. Part two is the present one with the “East or Index Finger” and the “Mani or Middle Finger”. Region wise it concerns Laconia first of all. As to part three, the focus is on the “West or the Ring Finger”, the Messenia region, plus Olympia and the mountainous Arcadia region. And part four is about Athens.

While my husband and I did a road trip in the Peloponnese (part one to three), we were stationary in Athens. Throughout my reporting, you will learn about where to go for the best upscale hotels and restaurants. No easy thing in the Peloponnese I can tell you! However, in Athens, it went smoothly. Furthermore, I will let you know about some major sights everywhere we went (part one to three). In addition, you will also find some walking/hiking suggestions, as we like to explore the area on foot (part one to three).

From place to place in the Peloponnese, part II, “Peloponnese East & Mani Fingers”

1. “Peloponnese East Finger”

A good base on the “Peloponnese East Finger” is Monemvasia, a dramatic place just off the coast. When driving here from Nafplio, we did a stop in Tyros, a small, charming seaside town. It is great for a short walk along the beautiful pebbled beach. And Café Zorbas is good for a drink.

About the “Peloponnese East Finger”

Monemvasia

The absolute highlight on this “Finger” is Monemvasia, without any doubt. Nothing prepares you for the sight of this (almost) inhabited rock rising out of the sea. It is often compared to the Rock of Gibraltar, although it is only a fraction of its size. Yet it is still just as dramatic. Locals call this place “The Castle”, but it actually is a stunning fortified town. This medieval place comes with castle walls (lower town) and a fortress on the top (upper town). While the former is well-kept,

the latter is mostly in ruins, expect the Church of Hagia Sophia.

It is well worth climbing up to the upper town, not only to see the ruins but also for the views of the sea and the town of Gefira.

Find here the link to a hike leading around the rock and through both the upper and lower town. Recommended places for small bites in the area are Emvasis Café in the lower town and  Bakery Angelakos, south of Gefira.

Further activity “Peloponnese East Finger”

We did one more activity on the “Peloponnese East Finger”, and this was a walk/hike in its very south. It starts in a remote fishing village

leading along the beautiful coast. Nearby is also the Geopark of Agios Nikolaos, a petrified forest. While we did not have time to visit this attraction, it might be worth doing.

When being in the area and longing for fine pastry, head to Laconia’s capital, Neapoli Vion. Here you find several establishments offering such treats. My husband and I opted for this place and very much liked what we got!

Our hotel: Kinsterna Monemvasia, one of the best hotels on the Peloponnese East Finger

Hotel Kinsterna is the only five-star accommodation far and wide. That is not all, it really is a dreamy property! This fort-like manor is perched up high on the hillside a short stretch down the coast from the Monemvasia Castle. It has origins dating back to the mid 17th century. When the current owners purchased the estate in 2002, it was in bad shape. Since 2006, it underwent renovations and reopened in 2010, restored to its former glory.

Out of the 52 rooms, my husband and I opted for a Premium Residence. These rooms offer much space (35-42sqm)

and come with a large terrace

as well as a marble bathroom.

Ours had a view of the gardens, which was nice. As to the decor, it was a lovely mix of traditional and modern elements. The one thing that we did not like so much was that the room was a bit dark. The daily rate amounted to 452€ with breakfast.

In terms of restaurants, there are two onsite. It is about the all-day Mouries and the Linos Tavern, which is only open seasonally (on certain days). We had dinner at the former once, but we did not return as the experience disappointed (mediocre food, inconsistent service). However, breakfast was a different affair with lots of choice and pleasant staff.

Otherwise, the facilities at Kinsterna are great. You find here two pools and an extensive activity program. And the staff was generally friendly and well trained.

Our restaurant: Athivoli Monemvasia, one of the best restaurants on the Peloponnese East Finger

As we were not in favor of the restaurant at our hotel (see above), we dined elsewhere. And Athivoli,

a tavern on the coast south of the Monemvasia Castle, turned out to be a hit! On two occasions, it persuaded with well-made Greek cuisine that came with a modern twist now and then. I very much liked the starters just as fried local cheese (8€) or roasted aubergine (7€). Also the spinach salad was a good choice (10€). When it came to mains, we did not try out the meat dishes, but only had fish and seafood (15 to 18€). Yet these dishes were made with quality ingredients and immaculately prepared. And they were accompanied by original sides. The two desserts we had, Ekmek Kataifi (6€) and Lemon Pie(7€), were equally fine.

As to the setting, it was the most cultivated ambiance we encountered in a Greek tavern during our 17-day stay in this country. And the service was friendly and accommodating. We even got a gratis after-dinner liqueur on our second visit!

2. “Peloponnese Mani Finger”

On the transfer from the “East Finger” (Monemvasia) to Aeropoli and surroundings – where you find the most lodging options – , it makes sense to stop in Gythio, a picturesque coastal town. It is the capital of the so-called Lower Mani. If you have a sweet tooth, this patisserie makes heavenly pastries!

And also have a look at the Dimitrios Shipwreck on Valtaki Beach.

About the “Peloponnese Mani Finger”

Why Mani deserves a special mention

The “Mani Finger” is definitively something special! Whereas in other parts of the Peloponnese you find lovely landscapes with olive-studded hills and villages of golden stone, this is different in the Inner Mani (south of Areopoli). Both the land and people are austere. Stark, treeless mountain, stone fields and stone towers shape the landscape. Mani is home to the Maniots, known as fierce warriors, who used to fight seemingly endlessly about water and land. They built stone houses with castle-like towers, and this often in almost inaccessible hillsides.

It was not until the 1970s, when the national government reduced the local autonomy in Mani. From then on, new roads were constructed to bind all the towns to civilization. While this was the start to touristic development, mass tourism has not (yet) reached this part of the Peloponnese – and hopefully never will! For me, Mani is the most beautiful part we encountered here. It is different, wild, harsh, sometimes dismissive, but also authentic, relaxed and friendly.

What to do in (Inner) Mani

Touring the Mani villages

The unique combination of rugged landscapes, small villages with ancient tower houses (called pyrgospita) and remote, narrow beaches has its unique appeal. A good idea to get an impression of the Inner Mani is to go on a car tour. Here is a suggestion for a half- to full-day trip: Pirgos Dirou (Diros Caves) – Charouda (Temple of Taxiarchis) – Drialos (Church Agios Georgios) – Mezapos (Chalikia Beach) – Kato Gardenitsa (Church Naos tou Sotira) – Gerolimenas (beautiful coastal town, Restaurant Veludo, KaSeas Boutique Hotel) –

Vathia (tower houses) – Marmari Beach – Porto Kagio – Kokinogia (one-hour walk to Cape Tainaron Lighthouse) – drive back along the Mani east coast (towns with imposing tower houses: Lagia, Exo Nimfio and Flomochori / beach stops: Kokala Beach, Kontronas Beach).

Other things to do in Mani

We did not the above mentioned walk to Cape Tainaron but instead chose the one to Tigani Castle more northwest. And this was a rewarding thing to do! This estate in ruins sits on a spectacular peninsula that looks like a frying pan, which is actually its name in Greek. You have stunning views all the time, and you can roam around the ruins of a medieval fortress. Historians have varying opinions about this place (if it is the mysterious Grand Magne or something different). Anyway, it is fun exploring it a bit. Here is the link to this walk/hike, starting from the village of Agias Kiriakis. On your return, you could also do a detour to Church Panagia Agitria (maybe add another 50 minutes for walking).

Instead of making the above side trip, we shortly visited the village of Mezapos with its Chalikia Beach (see also above chapter). We had viewed it from Agios Kiriakis and wanted to see it up close. And we had two more places on our agenda which you should not miss on your Mani trip, Aeropoli

and Limeni.

he former is Mani’s capital and has a nice old town with its characteristic tower houses. Not far from it you find the port of Limeni, more a hamlet around an idyllic cove.

Our hotel: Aria Estate Mani, one of the best hotels on the Peloponnese Mani Finger

For quite some time we struggled to find a hotel to stay in style in the Inner Mani. As we were here at the beginning of November, many lodgings had already closed down for the season. Finally, we were fortunate to happen across Hotel Aria Estate! It is remotely situated on a hillside facing the sea, about 8 minutes by car either from Aeropoli and Limeni. What a gorgeous property it is! I was excited from the beginning when driving down the driveway.

And my enthusiasm lasted until our departure three nights later!

First of all, I adored the hotel’s fantastic setting and its tranquil vibe. Then I was fond of its layout and construction, an array of stone houses made in the typical Maniot architecture. It was built in 2018 and has 15 rooms. We opted for the top one-bedroom accommodation, the One Bedroom Superior Seaview Jacuzzi (48sqm, 340€ with breakfast per night). It is a dreamy place! It consists of a bedroom, a living room with a wet bar, a balcony and a terrace with a jacuzzi.

What a great thing to experience the sunset from here! I also liked the interiors, which are airy and all kept in bright colors. While the bathroom is not overly big, it was okay for the two of us.

The female hotel manager seemed to have a firm hand on the estate. She was always present to guide the staff (not all had a good command of English) and to take care of the guests. On site you also find two pools – one outdoor,

the other in the spa.

And there is a restaurant, more about it below.

Our restaurant: Horizon at Hotel Aria Estate Mani (Instagram), one of the best restaurants on the Peloponnese Mani Finger

It was impossible to find a similarly good dining spot as Restaurant Horizon at our hotel (see above) in the area. At least that was true at the beginning of November when some spots had already closed for the season. We dined here three times and found it to be one of the better eateries we had on our Peloponnese stay. And the (à la carte) breakfast at Horizon was definitely the best we experienced on our Greece journey (including Athens)!

On offer here is high-quality Mediterranean fare with a creative twist, here and there with a focus on local food. The dinner menu features starters just as sea bass carpaccio (15€) or local cheese croquettes (14€) and two salads (12€). For mains think of a regional chicken dish (18€) or shrimps with local pasta (20€). Desserts include their take of Bougatsa, a Greek custard pie, (10€) or more international choices just a chocolate mousse with ice cream (12€). When dining here three times in a row, there was enough variation in choices to prevent repetition.

The setting at Restaurant Horizon is nice with white linen-covered tables in the evening. Al fresco dining would have be an option on our stay, but we found it too chilly outside. And on one or two evenings, it also was quite cool inside as they let the entrance door as well as the terrace door open. Yet Horizon is not an exception in this regard, Greek people seem to love draughty restaurants … Staff was friendly and helpful but not always experienced, which however was not a major issue.

Looking forward and back to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (Part I, III & IV)

I started in the last post with an overview of the whole 17-day Peloponnese and Athens journey. In addition, i informed about some things to know when coming to this southernmost region of Greece, especially in fall. Plus, I began with part one of four in total, the “Peloponnese Thumb”, that is Nafplio and the Argolis region. As in all parts, I advised on some major sights including suggestions for walks/hikes. And as my husband and I look out for the best high-end hotels and restaurants everywhere we go, this topic is always covered in my reporting. Here in this very post, it was about the “Peloponnese East Finger” around Monemvasia and the “Peloponnese Middle or Mani Finger”. Part three will focus on the “Peloponnese West Finger” (Messenia)

and the mountain region of Arcadia.

Part four finally will go into a city-stay in Athens.

Date of stay: November 2024

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The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART II “East & Mani Fingers” first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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Seeking sun and warmth in Europe late October, my husband and I headed to the Peloponnese. We wanted to spend a fortnight in this most southern part of mainland Greece, followed by a three-day stay in Athens. Imagine it was our first visit to Greece ever. So far, we had thought it to be too touristy. Yet word had reached us that the Peloponnese with its wealth of historic treasures was not so, at least in fall. Thus, we set out to discover this piece of land. And it did not disappoint! While it was not always easy to find opportunities to stay and dine in style here, we managed somehow. Find out in my posts to come about our itinerary, what to do and where to go for best upscale hotels and restaurants in the Peloponnese. Of course, Athens is also part of my reporting – no problems here if you are looking to treat yourself! After outlining the whole trip in this post, I start with part one, the “Peloponnese Thumb”.

Before delving into the topic, first a few lines about the Peloponnese as a travel destination. And what to expect when vacationing here in fall.

Peloponnese as a travel destination

The southernmost region of Greece, less than an hour from Athens, is known for many things. It features not only untamed nature, pristine beaches and remarkable mountain peaks and villages, but also has an exceptionally rich history and culture. Think in this context of great archaeological sites just as Olympia or Epidaurus dating back to the ancient Greeks. Yet there is more, Greece also experienced the Byzantine era or a Venetian interlude. And it endured long periods of Ottoman rule too. All this thousands of years of civilisation left behind remnants in the Peloponnese ready to be explored!

Main sights: “Fingers & Palm of the Peloponnese Hand”

Funnily enough, we all have a map of the Peloponnese. Just point your left hand to the ground, and there you have it. Your “Thumb” is Argolis with the beautiful town of Nafplio and Epidaurus. As to your “Index or East Finger”, it is where you find Monemvasia, a fortress town. Your “Middle Finger” is the Mani peninsula with its typical town houses and rugged nature. And your “Ring or West Finger” is the fertile Messenia with Kalamata, one of the bigger towns in the Peloponnese. As far as your small finger is concerned, it is beyond my knowledge where this is supposed to be. Finally, in your “Palm” lie Olympia, Sparta or Mystras, all historical sites, and the mountainous region of Arcadia.

When & how long to go to the Peloponnese

In terms of best travel time for the Peloponnese, April to June as well as September and October are good months. It is too hot in July and August, and high summer is the busiest season too. My husband and I went in the last days of October until mid November. The latter month is said to be often unstable weatherwise and is gradually getting worse. And I can confirm this. The first days were the warmest. The nights increasingly became colder, and the winds intensified. However, it was almost always sunny and warm enough in day time.

If you want to go to the Peloponnese in late fall, I suggest that you better chose the last two weeks in October. That comes with the additional benefit of more hotels still being open. And I find a fortnight the ideal period to explore Peloponnese’s main sights (the southern two thirds of the peninsula: “Fingers & Palm of the Peloponnese Hand”).

14 days on the road in the Peloponnese & 3 days (stationary) in Athens

Here is my Google Map of our Peloponnese and Athens itinerary complete with all the upscale hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants we were.

As to the Peloponnese part, it is about the best lodging we found and that was still open (many hotels close down for the season end of October). In terms of dining spots in the Peloponnese, you have to be aware that there is not much around that merits the name “fine dining” outside of cities and high-end hotels. So, I have included the best restaurants we encountered offering an overall good enough experience, especially food wise.

My husband and I flew into Athens, picked up a rental car and drove to our first destination, Nafplio (three nights). In case you only want to explore the Peloponnese without a (stationary) stay in Athens, there is also the option to fly into Kalamata (“West Finger”). After discovering “the Peloponnese Thumb” we drove on to Monemvasia, on the “Index or East Finger” (three nights). Next was the “Middle Finger” with the Mani peninsula (three nights). Our last stay by the Mediterranean coast was in Messenia, the “Peloponnese Ring or West Finger” (two nights) before heading inland. And this was to the mountainous Arcadia (three nights). When doing this we travelled via Olympia to get an impression of this extraordinary historic site.

Our last drive was from the Menalon highlands to the airport where we returned our car and grabbed a taxi to get to Athen’s downtown for a three-day city stay.

What is next in my Peloponnese & Athens reporting?

Now to some information about the individual stops on our Peloponnese itinerary. This includes a couple of sights and walking suggestions.  And you get details about where we stayed and dined, and this in style whenever possible. As to Athens, I only go into our luxury hotel and the three fine-dining restaurants we dined at. As there is quite a lot of material, I need to break my reporting down in four parts. I start in this blogpost with part one that covers the “Peloponnese Thumb” (what to do and best hotels/restaurants). The next one will be about the “Index or East Finger” and the “Middle or Mani Finger”. As to part three, I will go into the “Ring or West Finger” and Arcadia. And finally, in one more post I will address Athens.

From place to place in the Peloponnese itinerary, part I, “Peloponnese Thumb”

Nafplio & Argolis

Here it is about one of the most worth seeing towns in the Peloponnese, Nafplio. Yet also the surrounding area, the Argolis peninsula, has much to offer.

About the “Peloponnese Thumb”

On your way from the Athens airport to Nafplio, where you absolutely should stay because of its beauty, you can make a stop in Corinth. If you have half an hour to spare, take a quick look at the impressive Corinth Canal. In case you have more time, why not visit the ancient Corinth (we did not).

As to Nafplio, this first capital of the modern Greek state is a true gem! I have read that it is like a bigger version of the Plaka in Athens (old town), only more beautiful. And there is some truth in it. Think of gorgeous cobbled streets, a wealth of Venetian architecture or charming squares of every size. In its core you find the Syntagma Square,

which is not only vast and striking yet even paved in marble. Furthermore, there are three forts, from which you should visit the Palamidi Fortress

in particular. Plus, there is a great hike leading via the Palamidi Path

to Nafplio’s south, and this until the path comes to an end. Here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

A must-do sight in Nafplio’s surround is the Epidaurus amphitheater, one of the best-preserved of Greece’s ancient sites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you do a half-day trip, you can also visit a second such site, either Mycenae or Ancient Nemea. We opted for the lesser visited latter, which you could combine with a wine tasting in the area (we did not).

Our hotel: Navria Nafplio

When it comes to the best hotels in the “Peloponnese Thumb”, we did not look further than Nafplio. As this town is considered as its jewel, we absolutely wanted to stay here. There is the one or other luxury hotel in and around town, yet we did not think about choosing one of them. Either they do not get good reviews or are not in the historic old town. So, we opted for one of the many favourably rated boutique accommodations in town. In our case, it was Hotel Navria located on a small and relatively quiet square in the old town.

Right across the square there is its sister hotel, Aetoma, which also seems to be a good choice for demanding travelers. The lovely breakfast by the way, is available at Navria for both accommodations. And the two of them are only steps away from the bustling town center.

While Navria has modern interiors, its exteriors incorporate elements from the long gone by Ottoman period. As to rooms, six different ones are at your disposal. While many of them sound favourable, we went for the Suite. It features a balcony and a generous layout.

The bathroom is not big, but cleverly constructed with a pleasant walk-in shower and ample storage space.

Staff is extremely friendly and helpful, we felt very at ease here. And it was the least expensive room of our whole trip, it only cost us 165€ per night (with breakfast).

Our restaurants: Wild Duck, Valaora & Thyme, all in Nafplio

You have to know that Nafplio has lots of touristy restaurants, which are mostly traditional Greek taverns. Yet there are also some places which come close to what one understands under fine dining. This is especially true for Valaora, which is an upscale restaurant in a beautiful setting by the sea.

Also the service and the majority of our dishes, international food with a twist, were convincing.

When it came to our mains however, neither the Moussaka nor the Rooster Tortellini, both modern takes on the original receipts, were big throws. With the former, the aubergine was hardly recognizable and the meat subpar. As to the latter, the pasta dough was far too thick. And the prices were stiff compared to other restaurants in the area.

As to the second dining spot, Wild Duck served good contemporary creations

in pleasant surroundings.

Whereas I found the pricing okay, this was not so in terms of staff. When we showed up at the dining spot, they wanted to seat us outside, although we had a reservation – they did not ask about our preferences when we made it – and it was chilly. After lots of hesitation, they finally let us have seats inside.

Our third choice, Thyme, was the only one that was not in the town center but in Nafplio’s outskirts. We were nicely welcomed by the son, while his father is responsible for the kitchen. And the chef knows his job! There is only a small menu of European dishes with a contemporary touch, but everything we had was immaculately prepared and delicious.

Plus, it was good value for money. As to the ambiance, it was enjoyable with a modern flair.

Looking forth to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (part II to part IV)

After outlining a 14-day road trip itinerary in the Peloponnese and a three-day short stay in Athens, I went into part one of the voyage. That was about the “Peloponnese Thumb”, first of all the town of Nafplio (what to do and best hotels/restaurants). You have to know in this context that you have this southernmost piece of mainland Greece on your left hand. The next blogpost will be about two more of the “Peloponnese Fingers”. This is the “Index or East Finger” with the Monemvasia fortress

and the “Middle or Mani Finger”, which is a wild, rugged region. Part three covers the “Ring or West Finger”, Messenia, and the mountainous area of Arcadia, the “Peloponnese Palm”. Last, I inform about a city trip to Athens.

As far as the visit to Greece’s capital is concerned, my reporting will solely be about the luxury hotel we stayed and the three Michelin (starred) fine-dining restaurants we went. Regarding the others, I will let you know where to go for staying and dining in style (not always easy to find) but also what to do in the respective places. As my husband and I are avid walkers, I will provide some walking/hiking suggestions too.

Date of stay: November 2024

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Finally we come to the last part of a North and Central France trip done in late summer 2024. This is the France west-east crossing from the Brittany – which was the actual focus and part two – back to Switzerland where my husband and I live. We did so by taking the route via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal. As to part one, that was about our way from home to Brittany, which led over the Champagne and the Normandy, and where I gave an outline of the whole journey. My reporting includes the itinerary with some of the most important things to do everywhere we went plus the one or other walking suggestion. Furthermore, I let you know where to head for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants, here in this post it is about Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Before I come to these three places, find in the following again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all our (luxury) hotels and the (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants en route:

From place to place in North and Central France, part III, Cognac, Dordogne & Cantal

1. Cognac north of Bordeaux

About Cognac

The town of Cognac in the Charente Departement is about two hours by car north of Bordeaux. It is famous for one of the world’s best-known type of brandy. To label a spirit Cognac, it must be from a certain area and strictly made according to regulations (double-distilled). A bit like in the Champagne, you can visit the “Grande Marque” Cognac houses to view the process and to taste it.

Otherwise, in my view Cognac does not have much to offer in kind of attractions. The location on the Charente river is nice but that is it.

I found the town and even its historic center not that special. Yet it makes a great stopover for luxury traveler as you can find here two of the best luxury hotels in the area, Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa and Hotel La Nauve. While the former is in town, the latter is in Cognac’s surroundings.

Our hotel: La Nauve Cognac

My husband and I opted for the newer one of the mentioned luxury hotels, La Nauve, opened in summer 2023. And that was a great decision! It is idyllically located in a former Cognac distillery and mansion a few minutes by car from Cognac. What a beauty La Nauve is!

It is wonderfully restored with the finest materials.

Though, I considered it as impractical in many aspects, especially as far our room was concerned (Prestige Room, 33-38 sqm, No. 10, 696€ per night with breakfast, out of 12 in total). Without going in details, it was adorable from its looks, and there was a huge outdoor area too.

The breakfast was fantastic, served in the library (on inadequate chairs for the occasion).

Staff was faultless, and there are two great restaurants onsite (see below). You find here also a large garden, a bar and an outdoor pool.

Our restaurants: both at Hotel La Nauve in Cognac

We did not venture out of the hotel as I thought that both in-house dining spots made a good impression. And I was right so, both belong to the best restaurants you can find in Cognac! First I come to the casual bistro and then to the elegant gourmet dining spot, both led by chef Anthony Carballo. And pastry chef (Simon Souchaud) is a genius, I adored his varying brioches!

a) Brasserie des Flâneurs Cognac

This was one of the few restaurants on our journey through France that was not Michelin listed (although it would have deserved the award). It is situated in an annexe – that used to be the estate’s distillery – and has a modern, casual vibe.

Staff was unobtrusive but friendly. And the place seems to draw quite a number of locals. They serve modern international food, expertly prepared. Prices are at a medium level (starters from 16 to 19€, mains from 25 to 30€ and desserts around 10€).

b) Notes, gourmet restaurant, Cognac

The Michelin listed Notes is quite different from the above eatery. It is a refined dining establishment in an intimate part of the main manor.

You can make your choice between two tasting menus, one with four and the other with seven courses. I found them adequately priced, fitting the upscale setting at La Nauve (on our evening 80 and 120€). The ambiance is sophisticated and the staff, especially the head server, was top notch on our dinner. And the food – modern French cuisine – was sublime, in my view even worthy a Michelin star.

2. The Dordogne aka the Périgord

About the Dordogne/Périgord

The Dordogne department ist often called by its old name, the Périgord. The former is clearly a territorial designation (the river Dordogne). The Périgord is a historical name, it dates back to Roman times and represented the old province at the time. Yet both stand for a lovely landscape full of medieval castles, prehistoric caves and fortified villages.

The main town is Périgueux, boasting a charming old town with 2,000 years of history.

Then there are lots of villages that are part of the Les plus Beaux Villages de France (the most beautiful villages in France). Quite a few are around Sarlat, in the Black Périgord, the most popular part for visitors. I name here La Roque Gageac,

Beynac et Cazenac, Castelnaud la Chapelle or Dome. Plus, you find in the Dordogne also Jardins Remarquables (remarkable gardens), one of the more popular is Jardin du Manor d’Eyrignac.

While everything is very nice to look at, it is also quite busy (many large groups of bus tourists). To avoid the crowds, we did a nice walk/hike from La Roque Gageac to the Castelnaud La Chapelle Castle along the Dordogne, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

Our hotel: Domaine de Rochebois in Vitrac

Upfront I have to mention that we found it hard to select an accommodation to stay in style in the Dordogne. In search of best hotels here, you are somewhat lost. Really good luxury lodging is a rarity in this area. And our choice after much consideration turned out to be suboptimal. While Domaine de Rochebois is a beautiful property, it feels somewhat neglected.

From what I read, the hotel experienced quite some changes (opened in 1993, reopened in 2022 after a closure of 10 years, sold in 2024). On our stay, the restaurant and the golf course were closed. The room we had (Junior Suite Prestige, No. 212, 50 sqm, 514€ per night with breakfast, 40 rooms in total) had been updated not so long ago but already felt a bit dated. The same was true for the outdoor area (mossy cushions).

Staff was friendly, and the breakfast was okay. Onsite, you also find an outdoor pool and a spa. There is a bar too, yet it felt dreary.

Our restaurants: Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac & O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

If you are looking for best restaurants in the Dordogne, specifically in the so called Black Périgord, there is no way around the following two establishments.

a) Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac

We were much in favor of this small restaurant with a Michelin Bib Gourmand, opened in 2018. It is idyllically located in a former water-powered sawmill. The attentive lady of the house – Cécile Guérin – welcomed us and ushered us in the contemporary, casual dining room.

Her partner, Nicolas Aujoux, celebrates a modern French cuisine and occasionally also served plates on our dinner. You can choose among there tasting menus (3/3/6 courses 42/57/82€) and also dine à la carte, what we did. We had a fabulous duo of duck liver and turbot fillet, also the desserts were persuasive.

And the host even exchanged a few sentences with us, which was nice.

b) O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

At O’Plaisir des Sens, Bruno (chef) and Lydia Marien (host) have been at work here since 2015. The chef’s cooking expertise is evident, the restaurant is Michelin listed. His cuisine is classic, although with a modern twist. As far as the dining spot’s appearance is concerned, it is somewhat eclectic.

And the service on our dinner was down to earth, at times not quite seamless, e.g. when the host served cheese from the trolley. Plus, the business is a family affair, on our visit a daughter helped out in the service. Food wise, you have several options. Either you can choose one of three tasting menus (3/4/4 courses at 48/69/85€) or dine à la carte. We had the “the golden middle-menu”, which was fine, although a bit awkwardly composed (white beans with bacon, a delicious duck liver, sweetbread and a peach dessert).

3. Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

About Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

The Cantal mountain range respectively the Aubrac plateau are not necessarily places you know as foreign travelers. My husband and I ended up here because we had been looking for a stopover on our way from the Dordogne back to Switzerland. And imagine, we enjoyed here not only the culinary highlight, but also one of the best hotels stays of the whole trip. But more to how to travel in style further below.

If you are wondering where exactly we were, it was the town of Chaudes-Aigues.

It is located in the Massif Central in the heart of France, between the Cantal mountain range and the Aubrac plateau. The area is sparsely populated and geographically isolated. Much of Cantal is about pasture for the cattle – among other the old breed of Aubrac – and sheep. And this is because the climate is usually too cold and damp for grain. And we well noticed this on a walk we did in the area (link to the track on Outdooractive).

Regarding Chaudes-Aigues, it is a spa resort with more than 30 hot springs across the town. And the most famous is the Par Spring, which is the warmest natural one in whole Europe! As to natural beauties in the surroundings, there are the Aubrac Regional Nature Park, the Laussac Peninsula or the Truyère Gorges. A town you might have heard of is Laguiole where you find many companies that manufacture the famous Laguiole knives. In addition, it is a pretty village too.

Our hotel/restaurant in Cantal: Serge Vieira

My husband and I came to the Cantal region not because of the hot springs or the natural beauties, but because of the two-star Michelin Restaurant Serge Vieira. On our “mission” of finding the best restaurants everywhere we go, we stranded in this remote place. And fortunately, this highly decorated dining spot comes with accommodation options too. You can either stay at three rooms at the Couffour Castle (Restaurant Serge Vieira)

or at 18 rooms at their second place, Hotel Sodade, down in Chaudes-Aigues. Here in town, you also find Restaurant Sodade with a Michelin Bib Gourmand. I think that these establishments belong to the best what you can find in terms of upscale hotels and restaurants in the near and further area.

a) Stay at Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle

As I mentioned above, we experienced not only culinary delights at Serge Vieira but also a great hotel stay. Out of the three rooms available at Couffour Castle we opted for the “Yellow Room” (about 30 sqm, 415€ with continental breakfast). Yet I think all three have the same layout. We liked what we encountered, a modern and generously sized accommodation with an outdoor area for viewing the peaceful rural scenery.

What I very much appreciated was that the room came with two financier-pastries on both days of our stay. And the breakfast was out of this world!

Plus, Marie-Aude Vieira is the best host you could wish for.

b) Restaurant Serge Vieira, the best restaurant of our France journey

There is a sad back story behind this establishment. This is because the two-star Michelin chef Serge Vieira died of cancer at the age of 46 in mid 2023. Before he had built up with his wife Marie-Aude a successful restaurant and hotel business (Restaurant Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle from 2009 as well as Hotel and Restaurant Sodade from 2019). After her husband’s death, Marie-Aude Vieira took over. She did this with the help of a long-time friend of the family, Aurélien Gransagne. He runs the kitchen and she the dining room. I must say, we had the most exceptional dinners here – we ate here two evenings in a row (originally, we wanted to have the second one at Restaurant Sodade).

While I cannot judge Serge Vieira’s cuisine, I was delighted by Aurélien Gransagne’s inspired and truly unique dishes. You can choose between two menus: M for Marie-Aude at 235€ (6 courses) and S for Serge at 135€ (4 courses). Among other delicacies we had the most formidable lobster paired with corn or a dessert creation made of figs and almonds.

We enjoyed this in the ultra-modern dining room with picture windows to take in the views.

And this well cared for by the amiable host and her team.

Looking back to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & II)

Here it was about the last part (three) of a North and Central France trip my husband and I did recently. It regards the itinerary from Cognac over the Dordogne to the Cantal, which was our way home to Switzerland from the Brittany. The start (part one) made the opposite direction, from our home country to our actual main destination. The voyage went first to the Champagne, then to the Normandy. And part two focused on the journey’s centerpiece, the Brittany.

Date of stay: September 2024

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The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART III way from Brittany to Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART III way from Brittany to Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Now it is about the Brittany, the main focus of a road trip in North and Central France that my husband and I did in late summer 2024. To get here from our home country of Switzerland we travelled via the Champagne and the Normandy. Part one of my mini-series about the voyage went into it – and also gave an overview of the whole journey. In this very post, I concentrate on the Brittany. And part three – soon to appear on my blog – focuses on our way home from the Brittany that lead us to Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal. In all three posts, I inform about the itinerary including the major sights and some walking suggestions. And I let you know where to go for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants; here as mentioned it is about Brittany.

Before diving into the Brittany, first again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

From place to place in North & Central France, part II, Brittany

Brittany: Dinard, Perros-Guirec & Sainte-Marine/Combrit

As you have learnt by now, Brittany was our trip’s main focus. We totally spent twelve nights here, four in each spot. The start made two places on the north coast, first Dinard, in the region’s northeast. Perros-Guirec, in the northwest followed. And Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper on the west coast and at the same time in Brittany’s southwest made the end.

About Brittany

Walking/Hiking on GR 34

What I found brillant about Brittany is the fact that there is a walking/hiking trail running the entire coastline (GR 34). And this Sentier des Douaniers (Customs Trail) is about 2,000 km/ 1,243 mi long. Not that my husband and I did overly long tours, but we picked out the one or other stretch of track at every place we stayed. As to Dinard, I was fond of the walk from Dinard to Saint-Lunaire (link track Outdooractive). Around Perros-Guirec, I absolutely adored the trail from Sainte-Anne to Bringuiller (link track Outdooractive).

And in the department Finistère (around Quimper) the walk/hike on the Crozon peninsula was nice (link track Outdooractive).

Town hopping in Brittany

Of course, there is also much to in Brittany in case you do not want to walk or hike. We visited quite a numbers of towns and especially liked the following ones. I list them from northeast to southwest. Cancale is a pretty port and famous for its oysters.

And  I think we came across the most beautiful villages in Brittany just before reaching it on our way from Honfleur. Saint-Malo is a fascinating granite city with its impressive rampart but unfortunately overtouristed. Dinard – nicknamed “Cannes of the north” – is an absolute beauty with its numerous Belle Époque villas.

More to Brittany’s west, Tréguier is worth a quick visit with its huge cathedral, the beautiful narrow streets and little squares. Perros-Guirec is a charming small seaside resort with a relaxed feel.

The nearby Ploumanac’h is famous for its imposing, pink granite rocks. Lannion is a historic town with pretty houses and small paved streets.

In the region’s south, Quimper has not only a majestic cathedral but also a nice historical district. Plus it has a distinctive Breton Celtic character.

Concarnau is a small walled town, which is nice but very touristy (one of the most visited places in Brittany). As far as I am concerned, I liked the nearby Pont-Aven better, famous for its colony of painters in the 19th century. It is picturesquely nestled on the banks of the Aven river with enchanting alleys in the old town.

Our hotels in Brittany: Castelbrac Dinard, L’Agapa Perros-Guirec & Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

Now it is about the three (luxury) hotels we had in Brittany, which I regard as the possibly best you can find here. While the first two (Castelbrac and L’Agapa) are five-star establishments, the last (Villa Tri Men) is a four-star. Whereas the guest experience at Castelbrac was as perfect as it gets, this was not so at L’Agapa. Let me be straight, for me this accommodation is no real luxury hotel, it is rather a four-star. And I did not really warm to its vibe, which I found a bit old-fashioned. Hotel Castel Beau Site, a bit more in the west, might be a (better) alternative (built 1928, opened 2020, 28 rooms, 4-star). As to Villa Tri Men, it definitely is a four-star, yet one with an upscale ambiance. Now, to some more details to each of these three lodgings.

Castelbrac Dinard

This was the most upscale hotel of our voyage and also the best overall experience we had! It has a favourable position in Dinard, right on the beachfront promenade.

It was opened in 2015 in a historic building that used to house a museum of natural history. Now, there are 25 guest rooms looking out over the water, many with terraces, just as ours, which was huge (Prestige Room Terrace Sea View, 40 sqm, No. 4, 772€ per night with breakfast & one drink). Their style is refined yet laid-back, with Art Deco features.

Staff did a really good job, and we were served the most lovely breakfast.

Furthermore, you find here a bar, transformed from the museum’s former aquarium, and a Michelin-star restaurant (details follow below). But not enough, Castelbrac also has an outdoor pool, a small chapel and a vintage motorboat for excursions.

L’Agapa Perros-Guirec

As mentioned above, our stay here turned out to be a bit of a deception. The hotel is big for the area, where lodging tends to be small-scale (45 rooms).

It was opened in 2005 with some renovations made in the meantime. We had booked a room in one of the two annexes (Deluxe la Désirade, 45 sqm, No. 72, 384€ per night with breakfast & half a bottle of Champagne). It had a nice sea view and a generous layout, but I found it cheaply built. And it was musty, especially the bathroom, which would otherwise have been quite attractive.

Other facilities included a bar, a Michelin listed restaurant (details see below) and a spa. Breakfast was okay, as was the staff. In favor of L’Agapa must be mentioned that their pricing is reasonable. Plus, they replaced the Champagne in our room daily.

Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My husband and I felt comfortable at this elegant 19th century villa overlooking Sainte-Marine’s port. It is most probably the only bigh-end property in the area, especially if you value good reviews.

While the room we had was small and understated (Cottage, 25 sqm, No. 21, 384€ per night with breakfast), it was not a problem for us. Yet none of the 19 rooms at Villa Tri Men are large (opened in 2003, renovated in 2017/18). The bathroom at the cottage was quite spacious. Unfortunately, it had a slight moisture issue, but it was manageable. Plus, we had a nice outdoor area with a river view, as the only one of three cottages in total.

Onsite your find a bar and a Michelin starred dining spot (more info follows). And there is a second restaurant affiliated to the hotel down at the port (Michelin listed, details below). Staff is friendly and helpful, and a good breakfast is served here.

Our best restaurants in Brittany: my ranking

We dined at quite a number of fine-dining restaurants in Brittany on our nine-night stay. I will rank the dining spots we were in descending order of my fondness. And as longer this section goes, the shorter my recounting of the dining experience becomes. Frankly, none of the eateries – all listed in the Michelin guide – disappointed. Some showed weaknesses regarding the service or the concept, yet the food was always good or even excellent.

My No. 1 restaurant in Brittany: Les Trois Rochers Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My absolute favourite in terms of best restaurants in Brittany was the one-Michelin Les Trois Rochers in Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper. Here Frédéric Claquin has been in charge since 2003, awarded a Michelin star since 2016. He celebrates a creative seafood cuisine blended with spices from around the world. The setting is nice, a modernly furnished dining room with picture windows to view the beautiful port scenery.

Three tasting menus are on offer: 3-course 67€ (weekdays only), 4-course 99€ and 6-course 142€. We opted for the whole shebang as we celebrated my birthday. And it was a delectable culinary journey from A to Z, delivered by competent and warm staff.

My No. 2 dining spot in Brittany: La Table de mon Père Perros-Guirec

This Michelin listed place is the hotel restaurant of Castel Beau Site I mentioned above. My husband and I enjoyed a fabulous meal here in a contemporary-chic setting. And this with a stunning view of the St. Guirec Beach.

At work here is Nicolas Le Luyer, a true Breton. He has featured a modern cuisine and has showcased local produce since 2013. On offer at La Table de mon Père is a 3-course menu of the moment for 59€. Furthermore, there are two tasting menus, 4/6 courses for 89/109€. And you can also order à la carte, what we did. As a main course, we had pork filet in unison with local sea snails (42€), which was a delight! The standard of service was pretty good, although not completely faultless.

My No. 3 eatery in Brittany: Éclosion in Quimper

This is an urban gourmet restaurant at its best! Éclosion, awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand, was a real find for us. Not only got we contemporary food with a foreign twist at moderate prices, but also the service was very persuasive. Marion Pelletan is responsible for the dining-room, and this with lots of competence and and passion.

Thibault Le Goff in in charge of the open kitchen. And they have been doing this since early 2023. The menu includes three starters, mains and desserts each, from which you can compose a 3-/4-course menu (38€/45€). The setting is nice, modern and inviting at the same time. A must-do restaurant in case you come to Quimper!

My No. 4 restaurant in Brittany: Pourquoi Pas in Dinard

Pourquoi Pas is the “hotel restaurant” at the five-star Castelbrac. It has been holding a Michelin star since 2019, and this under the lead of  Julien Hennote. He is Breton yet a well travelled one. In the kitchen, he favors local produce and sustainable coastal fishing. You get here a 4-/6-/8-course menu (80/100/120€). On our dinner here, we had a lobster menu. It included six dishes, which were all inventive and well-made, though we found the main special. It was a lobster tail on sausage slices, which we considered a strange pairing. Yet the desserts were fantastic. And we also got a goodie, a financier with algae. This may sound awkward, but it was very tasty! Had it not been for the the somewhat awkward main dish, this dining spot would have topped our ranking of best restaurants in Brittany.

Service was good as was the ambiance at this elegant and stylish dining spot with its wonderful view of the Saint-Malo Bay.

My No. 5 to 8 dining spots in Brittany

Two more Dinard dining spots follow in my ranking of best restaurants in Brittany, both Michelin listed. This is about Ombelle and Didier Méril. While the former is modern and casual,

the latter is traditional and elegant, yet both with sea view.

Whereas Ombelle is reasonably priced, Didier Méril seems rather pricy for the area. Staff at both establishments left a mixed impression. However, the two of them offered quite a good food experience.

No. 7 is Le Bélouga in Perros-Guirec and No. 8 Bistrot du Bac in Sainte-Marine/Combrit, both included in the Michelin guide. The former is a hotel restaurant with a great sea view yet with quite a chilly atmosphere.

The service was so-so, however the food was persuasive (bistronomic and moderately priced, especially on Sunday and Monday).

The latter is a hotel restaurant too, but not your typical one. Instead, it is a real bistro

with fresh and simple seafood dishes (sole was great).

And the setting on a small port is lovely.

Looking back and forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & III)

This very post went into the centerpiece of our North and Central France trip, the Brittany. To summarize, part one (last blogpost) was about our way from Switzerland to the Brittany. It went to the Champagne first, followed by the Normandy. Soon on my blog, you will find part three (the last of this mini-series), highlighting the route we took when returning home from the Brittany. We did so via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Date of stay: September 2024

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The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART II Brittany (main destination) first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART II Brittany (main destination) appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

A long held plan came true in late summer 2024, when my husband and I set off on an extended journey through France. Not that we have not travelled our beautiful neighboring country in the recent past, but mostly for a few days only. This time we wanted to do a longer trip to France, and this by car. Its main focus should be the Brittany. As we started from northwestern Switzerland, this meant that we had to build in at least one stopover. And the same is true for the way back. So in the end, a 19-day voyage resulted. Before arriving in the Brittany, we made two stops (Champagne & Normandy). The return way lead via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal/Auvergne. As always when traveling, we kept an eye out for best luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants worth the money spent on them. Here in this post it is about part one, an outline of the the whole journey and the route to Brittany, leading to the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy.

Before coming to our 19-day itinerary for North and Central France in style, there is something else. It concerns the sort of content you may expect in this context.

What is next about the North & Central France journey in the time to come?

Actually, I wanted to provide quite a number of blogposts about our extended trip through France’s north and center. And they should follow right after this one outlining our itinerary. I used to to do this on my blog for many voyages in the past. This time, it will be a little bit different. This is because my husband and I already did another longer road trip in the meantime. It went to the Peloponnese and Athens in Greece. So, I want to keep my France travel recount shorter. That means to focus on the essentials such as what to do and where do go for best hotels and restaurants (part one: Champagne & Honfleur). I might pick out one or another topic and dwell on it later. Yet this would be after letting you know about our Greece journey just in the way I do it here for the North and Central France. It makes no sense for me to always fall behind with my trip reporting. And the next voyage is already approaching!

19 days on the road from Switzerland to Brittany and back with several before-and-after stops

It was not the first Brittany trip that my husband and I undertook this late summer. Back in the 90s, we already spent two weeks in the area. So, we decided to leave away most places that we went to at the time. This is true for some of the most visited spots too, Mont-Saint-Michel or Pointe du Raz. Notwithstanding, there are more than enough things to do. Here is my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

As mentioned, the journey’s first stop was in the Champagne region where we stayed in Épernay. From here, we continued to Honfleur in Normandy. Next was the first of three stays in Brittany. It took place in Dinard. Perros-Guirec, another town on France’s north coast followed. Then, we moved on to the country’s west coast, to Sainte-Marine/Combrit close to Quimper.

After leaving Brittany, we headed further south to Cognac, where the famous spirit of the same name comes from, a type of brandy made of grapes. The next stop was in the Dordogne (Vitrac), also known under its old name of Périgord. From here, we drove on to the Cantal department, which is located in the heart of France. Here we lodged at Chaudes-Aigues. Originally, we had planned one more stop in the French Jura. Yet we cancelled it at the last moment and directly returned to Switzerland from Cantal, which was quite a stretch to drive.

Now to some information about the individual stops on our North and Central France itinerary. This includes things to do with a couple of walking suggestions. And you learn about where to go for staying and dining in style. As there is quite a lot of material, I need to break my reporting down in three parts. I start in this blogpost with part one, the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy (best activities, hotels and restaurants). The next one will be about the Brittany and the third part about Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal.

From place to place in North & Central France, part I, Champagne & Normandy (best activities, hotels & restaurants)

1. Champagne Épernay

About the Champagne

Champagne is undoubtedly France’s most famous fizz, if not the world’s! This wine-making region is on Paris’ northeast side, with the towns of Reims and Épernay often used as a visitors’ base. For sure, you want to visit a Champagne House when being in the area, so book your slot in advance. If the question should arise which one to choose, this is difficult because there are numerous! My husband and I visited the biodynamic Leclerc Briant Champagne House because we stayed at their hotel, a family house in the middle of Épernay (see below).

While Reims is a bigger town (population of about 180,000), Épernay is much smaller (22,000 inhabitants). Both have their charms. Reims boasts a nice old town and a splendid cathedral. The special feature of Épernay is the Avenue de Champagne. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015. Here one Champagner House comes after another. And attached to them are bars and restaurants where you can taste the Houses’ finest cuvées, sometimes paired with culinary delicacies.

Our hotel: Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant Épernay

For our two-day stay in the Champagne, my husband and I chose Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant (Champagne House), opened in 2019. With its five rooms only, this former 18th century family home makes for an intimate stay. As it is located on the prestigious Avenue de Champagne, this luxury guest house comes with a Champagne shop and a terrace to try the House’s cuvées.

As to its interiors, it is a mix between old and new. Each room is different from each other. We opted for Room No. 3, which I personally find the best as it overlooks the (quiet) rear of the house with the garden. It is spacious (47 sqm), with a lovely seating area and quite a large bathroom.

And Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant is a heaven for Champagne lovers! Not only were we treated a small bottle of their exquisite Champagne and cookies in our room, but we also got a glass of it every morning at breakfast! The room rate per night was 425€ (with breakfast), which we found adequate. A delightful little breakfast was included, prepared on site (behind the bar) by friendly staff.

Our restaurants: Bulles & Bonheur and Symbiose, both in Épernay

a) Bulles & Bonheur Épernay

I really wanted to have a dinner with a Champagne pairing and came across the Champagne producer of Élodie D. This is about a female wine growing business in the fourth generation. As to their restaurant, two tasting menus are on offer. The five-course Menu Élodie (wine grower) amounts to 70€ without and to 130€ with the Champagne pairing (5 glasses). Menu Fabrice (her husband), which we had, includes seven courses and costs 110€. Together with the Champagne pairing (five glasses) the total expense is 200€. As to the food, you get here immaculately prepared modern French cuisine, nicely presented, in pleasant surroundings.

Fabrice was present on our dinner and this together with a fifth generation member, the couple’s lovely daughter. She helped out with the service although being only about ten years old. And she did a good job just as the rest of the staff! In terms of Champagne, you get different cuvées of the Champagne Élodie D. and also old vintages of the Champagne Desbordes-Amiaud. We liked both of them, although the latter is a Champagne of a different kind. We found that it almost tasted like a port wine.

b) Symbiose Épernay

Symbiose is a small eatery in Épernay’s town center where Maxine Moret (chef) and his wife Justine (host) are in charge. On offer is a contemporary cuisine (Michelin listed). Although Justine was not present 0n our evening, we felt well cared for on our dinner. The modernly styled dining room feels pleasant.

In terms of food, there are three starters, two mains, cheese and two dessert available. Out of this offer, you can compose two menus (4-/5-course at 54/70€) or order à la carte. Everything we got – we opted for the 4-course version – was great! I liked it that the cuisine was not only modern but also light. Maybe the service was a bit slow-paced, but I think the chef was alone in the kitchen.

2. Honfleur Normandy

About Normandy

Normandy has lots to offer as to things to do. Its most popular attraction is of course the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay – a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. Although it is overrun by tourists, it is worth visiting. Another must-do is exploring the different landscapes along the Alabaster Coast. There is the GR21 hiking trail running all the way from Le Havre to Le Tréport. Its most beautiful part is probably around Étretat with its beautiful cliffs – unfortunately overtouristed too. And if you are a history buff, the D-day beaches might be your thing.

As my husband and I already visited the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay and Étretat on our first trip to Normandy, we limited ourselves on discovering Honfleur a bit more. We did so by making a hike around Honfleur, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

As to Honfleur, we already knew it. Therefore, we expected lots of tourists here. It was exactly like that, but understandable. The historic multi-store houses packed tight to each other around the Vieux Bassin (port) make a beautiful picture.

Yet a few steps further, and you are away from the masses!

Our hotel: Saint-Delis Honfleur 

Our hotel in Honfleur was Hotel Saint-Delis, opened 2020 in a 17th century former family home.

It is located in a beautiful residential neighborhood, very close to the town center.With its nine rooms only, this Relais & Châteaux property is very boutique. The elegantly furnished rooms come with steam showers and overlook a splendid garden.

We had booked a Deluxe Room (31 sqm, 599€ with breakfast per night), yet were upgraded to a Junior Suite (40 sqm). It was a duplex with ample space, which we liked (No 5). And this despite the fact that the A/C was a bit suboptimal.

You find no restaurant on site but there is a bar for hotel guests only. Here you get a lovely breakfast and snacks throughout the day, served by friendly and helpful staff.

Our restaurants: Huître Brûlée & Le Bréard, both in Honfleur

a) Huître Brûlée Honfleur

At the Michelin listed Huître Brûlée you get oysters – as its name suggests! But we chose other items from the small à la carte, which is reasonably priced. The cuisine at this lively, casual place is modern.

And and you get also lighter and healthy choices. At the helm at Huître Brûlée is a younger couple, Paul Lacheray in the kitchen and his partner, Chloé Woestelandt, in the dining room. Even though the staff was busy on our visit, it was cordial. We liked what we had for starters (all around 15€) and mains (from 22 to 30€). Instead of  going for cheese (5€), my husband and I had two desserts (10€ each). Yet the latter was too much, as especially the chocolate dessert was quite heavy (one dessert is probably sufficient).

b) Le Bréard Honfleur

This Michelin dining spot is the more sophisticated choice compared to its above mentioned competitor. What they have in common, is the modern food. Yet the decor here is chicer, the service more polished and the cuisine a touch more refined.

A younger couple is in charge as well, Fabrice Sébire in the kitchen and his wife Karine in the dining room (since 2004). On our evening, we could have a seat outdoors in the lovely courtyard. From the three menus (with options), we chose the middle (3-course menu 45€, 4-course menu 60€, 6-course menu 70€).

The service was professional and attentive. We found that Karine had an open eye for subtleties that others might overlook. And there were no issues with the pricing, which we considered as fair.

Looking forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part II & III)

That was the first part of a North and Central France trip my husband and I undertook lately. It showcased the itinerary from Switzerland – where we come from – to the Brittany. This is about the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy, and I go into the best activities, hotels and restaurants here. The Brittany is the main focus of our journey and I deal with it in part two. Part three finally is about the return way, going from the Brittany via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal back to Switzerland.

Date of stay: September 2024

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You may have never heard of Stresa, but it is one the older tourist resorts in Europe. This small, elegant town, embracing Lake Maggiore’s western shore, is part of the Piedmont, in the very north of Italy. Its rise began in the early 20th century when the Simplon Tunnel opened and trains on the London-Paris-Milan line made a stop here. Ever since, tourists flock to Stresa, also because of its most famous sight, the three Borromean Islands. While my husband and I have vacationed in the nearby Swiss Ticino many times, we never made it to this lakeside town. Until recently, when we decided to combine Stresa with a stay in the Piedmont wine region around Alba. And we did so also because news had reached us about a just unveiled hotel, Boutique Hotel Stresa, which is probably the best luxury hotel in town.

Before coming to the newly opened Boutique Hotel Stresa, I want to provide some more information on Stresa.

About Stresa

Most luxury travelers – especially from the U.S. – rather head to Lake Como than to Lake Maggiore. And that is the reason that this region, which is also lovely, has become very pricy. When it comes to Stresa, this is different as it is not so on North American tourists’ radar. And while I secretly hope that this does not change much, I cannot help but promoting Stresa a bit.

To get here from Milan by car or train, you need just over an hour. This makes it an ideal base for exploring Italy’s second-largest lake. Lake Maggiore stretches along the border between Piedmont and Lombardy all the way up into Switzerland. As a side note, when doing this trip you come to Ascona/Switzerland. And you will find quite a few posts on my blog related to this beautiful town. As to Stresa, there is a bunch of things to do in and around this lakeside resort. You will find a post about some of these activities later on my blog.

A few quicks words on Stresa as a place. While it is not large, it has everything you need for a few laid-back days on the lake. There is a promenade bordered by palms and flowerbeds with lots of spots to have a drink.

It evokes the atmosphere of the Belle Époque with lots of luxury villas and opulent hotels lining the lake’s shore. I have already mentioned Stresa’s most famous sight, the Borromean Islands that catch the eye immediately.

And the scenery is dominated by a forest alpine backdrop that fades into the snow-capped peaks on the horizon. Plus, this small town is blessed with a mild climate.

Staying in style at Boutique Hotel Stresa on Lake Maggiore in northern Piedmont

While there already was the one or other luxury hotel in Stresa before Boutique Hotel Stresa, I was not necessarily drawn to its hotellerie. So, I much welcomed the arrival of this high-end lodging option in the lakeside town. After some info about the accommodation’s back story I come to all the other details of interest for (luxury) travelers about Stresa’s best hotel.

Back story Boutique Hotel Stresa

Boutique Hotel Stresa’ story goes back a long time. The construction of the historic Stresiana villa is attributed to the Swiss architect Augusto Guidini (1853 – 1928). The property is known as Casa d’Oro or also as Villa Ostini, as the entrepreneur Ostini took it over in 1940.

After a remarkable three-year long restoration, the villa, transformed to a luxury hotel, opened its doors in August 2023. The building’s celebrated facade remains yet belies the modernity within. 26 spacious, state-of-the art rooms await you here. No comprises were made to create a cutting-edge accommodation yet with the charm of the past.

This new old gem of a hotel belongs to Preferred Hotels & Resorts. When it comes to the ownership structure of Boutique Hotel Stresa, the whole thing remains a bit nebulous. When researching this topic, I came across the name of the Russian entrepreneur Aleksey Fisun. This investor holds a dual passport and has been an Italian citizen resident on the lake for several years. In a more recent publication, I read that Svetlana Fisun (Daughter?) was the hotel owner. She also appears to be a dual citizen and resident in Stresa.

Location of the best luxury hotel in Stresa

The hotel could not be more favorably located in the town of Stresa. It is in the center of this lakeside resort, just adjoining the old town and opposite the promenade. You can reach the Stresa Ferry Terminal in a five-minute walk from here. To get to the train station, you can do this in ten minutes by foot. From the lodging’s roof top restaurant, you have the most stunning views of the lake, the Borromean Islands and the surroundings. And it is situated just between the Villa Ducale, Stresa’s oldest building, and another hotel, the Regina Palace.

Ambiance/Staff

I mentioned it, Boutique Hotel Stresa is a true jewel. It is one of the most beautiful hotels I have stayed in the recent past. Everywhere your eyes fall you find beauty and perfection. The unique allure of the place has been kept, yet at the same time the property got a new contemporary, unpretentious look. The front view of the hotel, where you can only see its old facade, is quite different from its side view. The latter discloses that two (Or three?) historic buildings have been connected by a contemporary modern building. Old and new are united in harmony.

The employees’ attitude is exemplary. We encountered an exceptional service from every member of staff, and this all the time. I was astonished to notice that even the bellboy, a young male, was articulate and fluent in English. He said and did all the right things at the appropriate time. At breakfast, we were pampered by the server, an older male. I think he also did so as there were not that many guests around on our stay.

Rooms/Pricing at Boutique Hotel Stresa

Room categories

As I already let you know, everything is top notch here. And this is true for the guest rooms as well, which offer the most modern equipment and exceptional comfort. There are three main categories: Garden, Lake and Peacock, with ascending value.  As to the Garden category, you can choose among Petit Garden (30 sqm), Garden Suite and Grand Suite Garden (both 45 sqm). It remains unclear to me what the difference is between the latter two. We had the Grand Suite Garden. While we had a large balcony, I noticed that other Garden Rooms did not. All the rooms of this category overlook the garden of the Villa Ducale. This is a good thing as this is the quieter side.

The next higher main category is the Lake. Here you can go either for the Suite Lago (45 sqm), the Grand Suite Lago (45 sqm) or the Corner Suite (60 sqm). Again, I cannot figure out what distinguishes the Grand Suite Lago from the Suite Lago. As far as the orientation of the rooms is concerned, I assume that they predominantly face the street that turns into the main road (actually the side view of the property). While you enjoy a lake view from here, you also have to consider the somewhat busy street.

The highest main category is the Peacock, with five different rooms ranging from 65 sqm to 155 sqm. And I presume all of them have panoramic lake views.

Pricing at the best luxury hotel in Stresa

I checked out the room pricing (best available with breakfast) for the beginning of August 2025 (high season), and this during the week. As to the Garden category, prices vary from 591€ to 900€. As far as the Lake is concerned, rates are between 810 and 1,264€. And the least expensive Peacock Suite starts at 1,446€.

Now to the room we had – as you know by now, it is about a Grand Suite Garden.

Grand Suite Garden

Visiting Stresa in early July over the weekend, we considered the pricing for our generously sized Grand Suite Garden (870€) as appropriate. I fell heavily in love with the gorgeously sleek room kept in blue, brown and light beige. There was not only a seating area but also a high table and chairs.

Our Grand Suite Garden was in the front section of the three-part building. This even allowed us to catch sight of the lake from our spacious covered balcony.

Also the bathroom embraced contemporary style in design. It was huge and kept in a dark grey.

The one thing not that ideal was the room being a bit on the dark side (three windows instead of two would have been better, but of course it is a historic building).

One reason for us to choose this room category was the option to have two single beds instead of one double bed. Unfortunately, this did not work out, so we had to make do with a king size bed instead. Yet, it was comfortable, and they arranged for two covers (which were too wide). Another issue was that the air conditioning was not set cool enough. We had to ask several times for an adjustment – apparently the temperature returned to the initial position every time when they cleaned the room. In addition, the fridge was not cold enough either. Plus, they did not refill the drinks in it every day (which were included in the room rate). Said that, these minor issues did not spoil our stay here, which was really great.

Facilities at the best luxury hotel in Stresa

Apart from the restaurants, into which I go further below, Boutique Hotel Stresa features following amenities. On the middle building’s roof you find a sun deck complete with loungers, tables and chairs, a small pool with jacuzzi massage and a bar service. And you have the most fabulous lake view from here.

In terms of relaxation and health, there are four private spa suites on site, each with a unique concept. For example, the Natura Suite transports you in some kind of alpine barn. And as these accommodation also have beds, you are able to stay here overnight.

Restaurants at Boutique Hotel Stresa

On the premises of Boutique Hotel Stresa, two restaurants are at your disposal. One is the fine-dining spot (LeBolle Restaurant), which also is the breakfast place. The other is the bar (Rooftop Perlage), where you can have drinks and light meals.

1. LeBolle Restaurant, the fine-dining spot

The main eatery at Boutique Hotel Stresa is LeBolle Restaurant. Le Bolle translates in English The Bubbles. There are five of these igloos made of glass and wood in the garden overlooking the lake. They definitely are the flagship sign of this dining spot and regularly arouse the curiosity of passers-by.

But it is not only about appearance at LeBolle but also about substance. The chef, Andrea Falciola, is knowledgeable in his field. At this high-end dining spot, they serve Mediterranean food with a twist made with quality produce. And they do this not only in The Bubbles of course but also in the modernly designed interiors

and in an outdoor area. My husband and I have dined here twice. All the details about how it was you will find in a separate post about best (Michelin) fine dining in Stresa later on my blog.

Also the breakfast is served at LeBolle Restaurant, located on the hotel’s ground floor. There is a well-assorted buffet plus an à la carte menu. From the latter, you can order some extra items just as fresh fruit salad, hot egg dishes or pancakes, and this with no additional costs. There is a section on the menu with selections just as egg Benedicts or smoked salmon, for which you have to pay extra. We liked what we got here and enjoyed our breakfast on our four days at this hotel.

2. Rooftop Perlage, the bar

The Rooftop Bar/Restaurant is the place to go for drinks and lake views. From here you really have a fabulous vista of Lake Maggiore and the Borromean Islands. Yet the panorama includes parts of Stresa too, also the neighboring Villa Ducale or Regina Palace Hotel. When staying at Boutique Hotel Stresa or at a nearby other place, do not miss the chance to benefit from these great views!

In terms of spending, drink prices are high. Cocktails cost 20€, gin drinks between 20 and 30€ and tonic waters 8€. Yet drinks are accompanied by things to nibble and a snack of the day. Service is knowledgeable and friendly. When it comes to food, there is quite a choice in the four sections of starters, first courses, second courses and desserts. In addition, you find here also a menu with typical aperitif snacks. Plus, they have a truly special selection of champagne here, although I have never seen a correspondent menu.

Overall on the best luxury hotel in Stresa

The new high-end Boutique Hotel Stresa on the Lake Maggiore in Italy’s north, close to Switzerland, hits many if not all the passion points for luxury travelers. They have it all at this upscale lodging: top location, immaculate premises, exquisite fine-dining, excellent staff and also that certain something. With the latter, I address The Bubbles in the garden, where you can have your meal when dining at their LeBolle Restaurant. These igloos are really an eye catcher. Yet at Boutique Hotel Stresa it is more than only about style. They deliver also in the area of content. What they do, they do it right at the best luxury hotel in Stresa.

And while Stresa is not Como or any other trendy place in Italy, it is a pleasant, pretty spot with lots of things do in town and surroundings. Find out about some of the activities in a post to appear on my blog soon. Furthermore, I will go into where to head as lovers of (Michelin) fine dining in and around Stresa.

Looking back and forward on my Piedmont reporting

In the paragraph before, I let you know what will come as to more content about Stresa. Now to what was before. The start of my reporting made a 11-day itinerary outlining three stops in the Piedmont and one in western Switzerland. Then I published three posts about the first main destination of the voyage, a stay near Alba in the typical Piedmont wine region. They included a review of the luxury hotel my husband and I stayed, three of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants and things to do in the area.

With this very post, we have arrived at the second main destination, Stresa on the Lake Maggiore in the northern Piedmont. You have learnt more about probably the best luxury hotel in Stresa. Next is all about dining in style in and around this lakeside town and the final blogpost will inform on activities in the area.

Date of stay: July 2024

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For a second visit in the Piedmont’s Langhe wine region within three years, my husband and I again opted for a hotel near Alba. While we had chosen a historic accommodation east of this regional capital at the time (Relais San Maurizio, my post), we went for a newly built one on our recent trip. This time it was Casa di Langa Piedmont, 30 minutes by car south from Alba. From what we had seen and heard about it on our research, we considered it as one of the best luxury hotels in the Langhe – as the one I have just mentioned. The same for both is that they are high-end hotels. Find in the following everything to know when planning a stay at the luxury hotel Casa di Langa.

Before coming to how it is staying in style at Casa di Langa, find a few lines to our Piedmont/Swiss west itinerary.

Travel itinerary Piedmont/north Italy & west Switzerland

My husband’s and my plan was it to make two four-day stays in Italy’s Piedmont. The first one should be in the “typical” one with its rolling hills covered with vineyards. For the second one, we wanted it to be in the Piedmont’s north, in the Italian Lakes region close to Switzerland. So, we settled for Hotel Casa di Langa, south of Alba, and Boutique Hotel Stresa, in the town of the same name on Lake Maggiore.

On our way to Casa di Langa, we made a stopover in Caluso, north of Turin (Piedmont’s capital). When going back home – after staying in Stresa – , we made a side trip to the Swiss west. Here the Valleé de Joux, not far from Lake Geneva, was our destination.

As you might have found out meanwhile, my husband and I are luxury travelers. That means we look for best upscale hotels and (Michelin) fine dining restaurants wherever we go. At the same time, we only choose such ones that we believe are worth their (high) price tags. And we enjoy exploring places by walking.

Staying in style at Casa di Langa in Cerretto Langhe, near Alba, Piedmont

Location of one the best luxury hotels in the Langhe

I could not think of a much more beautiful location in the Piedmont than the one of Casa di Langa. The hotel is situated on a slope in the Langhe wine region, 30 minutes south of Alba.

And you have the most stunning view of rolling hills dotted with villages and vineyards from here. On a clear day, you even have this vista against the background of the Piedmont Alps. The nearest village you can view from here is Serralunga d’Alba, and behind it is La Morra. And more gorgeous towns just as Barolo or Monforte d’Alba are not far from here.

Ambiance/Staff

Casa di Langa, designed by the Milanese firms GaS Studio with Parisotto+Formenton Architetti, was opened in June 2021. And this with the promise of becoming one of the Piedmont’s best hotels. The sustainable accommodation, part of a property that includes 42 hectares/104 acres of vineyards, hazelnut groves and forests, is owned by the U.S. Krause group. The building is set around an open piazza that cascades down the hillside in terraces towards the valley, which is quite a sight.

Materials are inspired by the surrounding landscape. While the exteriors are kept in all shades of deep red, the interiors come in neutral colors, with lots of wood and stone. For the furniture, a mix of Nordic and Italian craftsmanship is used. Everything is very nice to look at, however sometimes lacks practicability. For example, there is no elevator to the pool area or to the parking lot (you can access by buggy and they have valet parking).

Personally, I missed the Italianità at Casa di Langa, the typical pan-Italian identity. For me, the hotel felt quite a bit American, and on our stay there were also lots of guests coming from the U.S. I found the staff friendly yet somewhat distant, especially at the reception and the restaurant. The guys from the valet service however were very nice and helpful. One more remark to the Casa di Langa’s layout. The bar is an extension of the reception area, which feels a bit suboptimal. This is especially given the fact that there is so much space onsite. And it has no view, also on the outdoor lounge area. Bottom line: although the hotel is a true beauty and has the potential of being one of the Piedmont’s best, it lacks a soul in some way.

Rooms/Pricing at Casa di Langa Cerretto Langhe

There are 39 rooms at Casa di Langa, one of the best luxury hotels in the Langhe. And this in six different categories (two rooms, four suites). All come with a spacious private terrace.

Even the least expensive one is quite sizable (Classic Room 33 – 36 sqm). The next higher category (Deluxe Room) is similar in size yet offers a better view (towards Serralunga d’Alba). Junior Suites vary in size (36 – 52 sqm) and do not have the benefit of a valley view (as Deluxe Rooms). As my husband and I wanted to have twin beds (available at Classic Room and Junior Suites), we opted for the Classic Room – we did not want to risk a small Junior Suite. Here is how it was.

Classic Room with twin beds

Visiting the Piedmont in early July, we considered the pricing for our Classic Room as reasonable (446€ with breakfast). As to its design, I liked the contemporary look. They used locally sourced materials just as oak, terracotta, stone and leather, which made it quite unique. It is certainly not your usual hotel room.

The feature I liked most with our room was the huge terrace, although we could not shade it.

As we had chosen the twin beds option, the room was equipped with a special device. Actually, the beds were on rollers, so you could them arrange in two positions – either close together or totally apart. As we favor neither nor – the latter takes up too much space – , we were a bit at a loss. What I also regretted was the lack of seating (apart from the office chair).

The bathroom was spacious enough with an oversized shower but only one sink.

Overall, I was in favor of our room’s look yet more could have been made of the space available to make you feel more comfortable.

Facilities/Activities at one of the best luxury hotels in the Langhe

At Casa di Langa you find a really gorgeous pool. It is not only huge but also set in the most favorable position. Once when my husband spent there some time on a late afternoon, it was rather used as a pool bar rather than for swimming.

In terms of wellness there is also a gym and a small spa onsite. From what I learned – I have not been there – , it offers a whirlpool and a sauna. It is only available for private use against prior reservation, and this for 50 minutes per party.

As Casa Langa has its own wine denomination, there is also a wine academy offering two tastings each day. Cooking classes are also part of the activity offer. Furthermore, you can do hikes in the property’s woods, discover their vegetable garden and greenhouse self-guided or on a garden tour. Truffle hunting is possible as well as is renting a vespa or a bike. We did not make use of any offers as we had done a wine tasting and a truffle hunting on our last visit to the Piedmont (my post). Instead, we made (self-guided) hikes and did some sightseeing. I will cover some activities around Casa di Langa in a post to come.

Restaurants at Casa di Langa

You can either have lunch or dinner at the Fàula Ristorante (Michelin listed, casual fine dining)

or have drinks and small bites at the Sorī Cocktail Bar.

As to the latter, you get on arrival a voucher for a 15 % discount for a drink at the bar, which I found a bit strange. I think it would be better to get either a welcome drink or nothing at all. An in between solution does not work, in my opinion. Be it as it may, we had the one or other drink at the bar. It was nice enough, yet I found the location not that appealing, as I described above. We did not eat at the bar.

However, we had once a dinner at the restaurant. We were lucky and could have it outdoors,

which was a good experience (the indoors have a bit the appearance of a canteen), also food wise.

The chef knows what he does, and the staff did a good job too. More details to dining at Fàula Ristorante and other fine dining-spots nearby follow in a further post to appear on my blog.

Some more remarks to the above restaurant in terms of breakfast. We had it here on four mornings and found it solid but unexceptional. While you could order simple egg dishes without additional costs, this was not possible for eggs Benedict and similar fare. Smoothies were not free of charge either. And frankly, the orange juice they offered on our stay was no winner. Plus, my hot tea was only lukewarm on several occasions. Bottom line: such a breakfast performance does not look good for a property which strives to be one of the best Piedmont hotels.

Overall

Casa di Langa stands out from other hotels in the region thanks to its state-of-the-art architecture, its sustainable design and its breath taking setting. Seemingly, no costs were spared to make it a unique property. Even the entry-level guest rooms are quite large and nicely decorated, although a bit impractical in my opinion.

I also was in favor of the food quality when having dinner at the Fàula Ristorante. As to its design, I am bit less enthusiastic, I found it rather bland and uninviting. Also the breakfast service we experienced here was below my expectations.

As to the level of hospitality, I sometimes felt like being in a business hotel. This was especially so at the reception where the employees were rather reserved and impersonal.

All in all, my husband and I were happy enough with our stay at Casa di Langa yet far from being truly delighted. A beautiful appearance is not enough. It needs more commitment to guest excellence to ensure that (almost) everyone has a comfortable and memorable experience.

Looking back and forward

The start to my mini series about the Piedmont journey made a 11-day itinerary. This mainly included two four-day stays in this northern Italy region, one south of Alba in the typical wine growing area, the other near the Swiss border in Stresa on Lake Maggiore.

This very post went into Villa di Langa, our lodging in the Piedmont’s south and one of the best luxury hotels in the Langhe. Next on my blog, I will report on (Michelin) fine dining around our hotel (south of Alba) and things do do here. The same thing will follow as to our second Piedmont stay further north in Stresa (luxury hotel, fine dining, things to do).

Date of stay: July 2024

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One more trip lead my husband and me to northern Italy, this time to the Piedmont. Regarding the last two journeys in this area, find the details below. On our most recent voyage, it was basically about a two-stop Piedmont itinerary. One should be in the typical Piedmont with its hilly vineyards, the other in the Italian lake region just adjacent to Switzerland. We added two more halts to shorten the travel time from one place to another. As always when vacationing, we opted for luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants as long as they offered value for money. This because we are not ready to pay ridiculous prices for staying and dining in style. And everywhere we went we were looking out for opportunities to walk and explore the area walking.

Looking back at former north Italy trips

Before coming to the itinerary of our recent Piedmont trip, here is some info on the mentioned last two journeys in the area.

North Italy trip 2023: Trentino-South Tyrol & Lombardy

We started the journey with two stays in the South Tyrol. On the one hand, we went to Dorf Tirol (Tirolo in Italian) above Meran (Merano in Italian). On the other hand, we ventured to the Sarntal (Sarentino valley in Italian) above Bozen (Bolzanzo in Italian). As you may have noticed, the South Tyrol is bilingual – German and Italian. Next was the Lake Garda further south. While its northern part is located in the Trentino, the place we went already belongs to the Lombardy. It is about the picturesque town of Gardone Riviera.

On return, we took a detour to the Lake Geneva region in the Swiss west. Precisely, we made a stop in Glion/Montreux.

North Italy trip 2021: Piedmont & Liguria

Our first stop in the Piedmont was not far away from Switzerland, in the Italian Lake region, and we opted for Orta San Giulio (Lake Orta). Then we proceeded to the “usual” Piedmont – rolling hills with vineyards – near Alba. At the time, we lodged in Santo Stefano Belbo, 30 minutes east from the mentioned regional capital. From here we went on to Liguria. Here we stayed in Alassio, the beach town on the so-called Italian Riviera.

Our way home led over France, we made halts in Vence, Les-Baux-de-Provence and in Vienne.

Now to our current Italy adventure.

North Italy trip 2024: 11-day road trip Piedmont & Swiss west trip itinerary

As mentioned, for our latest north Italy trip we had been longing for vines and lake. Here is my Google Map of it with all the (luxury) hotels we stayed and the (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants we went:

This time we started with a four-day stay in the wine growing area around Alba. We chose a hotel not so far away from the one we were on our last visit. Again it was half an hour by car away from Alba, but not in the eastern direction as last time but in the southern one. And it was in the town of Ceretto Langhe.

As it would have been quite a long trip from our home town, we inserted an intermediate stop about two thirds of the way. That was north of Turin in Caluso. Our second four-day visit was in Stresa on Lake Maggiore.

On our way home, we made a halt in the Vallée de Joux, a high valley in the Swiss Jura Mountains. It is situated not far from Lake Geneva in western Switzerland.

Now to some information about the individual places on our Piedmont itinerary. In addition, I also include some remarks about staying and dining in style here.

From place to place in the Piedmont & Swiss west

1. Caluso, north of Turin, 1st stop Piedmont itinerary

Caluso is a small town in the Metropolitan City of Turin in the Italian region Piedmont, located about 30 km/19 mi northeast of Turin. It has gained some notoriety because of the white wine grape Erbaluce that is primarily grown here. From what I read (and also tried) it makes good dry table, sweet and sparkling wines. In addition, Caluso has a nice medieval town center

and a tranquil environment (Lago di Candia: great circular walk).

Caluso is not exactly a tourist hotspot. My husband and I came here looking for a stopover between our home town and the Langhe wine region. And it delivered well in this respect with the fabulous one-star Michelin Restaurant Gardenia (update November 2024: Michelin listed) – I think we were the only foreigners on our dinner.

The female chef celebrates an amazing cuisine inspired by nature and with a high respect of the plant world.

And this in a beautiful 19th century building. Plus, we found a great bed and breakfast establishment, the brand new Villa Albaluce. It is a historic mansion with a spacious garden and  five suites (all with kitchen),

featuring 18th century parquet floors, frescoed vaults and antique furniture. On top of all that, staff was top notch. And it is only a few minutes away by foot from the above mentioned dining-spot.

2. Ceretto Langhe, south of Alba, 2nd stop Piedmont itinerary

I went into the typical Piedmont – sloping hills covered in grapevines – in a former post at some length. So, I will not offer more details about this area right now. I can only say this much: I found the Langhe wine region south of Alba even more beautiful than the already stunning one east of it. I think in this context of towns just as Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo or La Morra. Later on my blog, I will advise on some more activities in the area, in addition to the ones already mentioned in above post.

In terms of accommodation in the Langhe, we opted this time for Casa di Langa (my post). This hotel has not only an exceptional setting

but is also an architectural jewel. It opens up to a valley like an amphitheater, revealing a breathtaking view of the surrounding rolling hills dotted with villages and vineyards.

Casa di Langa is a fairly new property and features 42 modernly furnished rooms.

As always when traveling we try to dine at the best (Michelin) restaurants in the area – usually with an eye for value for money. And we made great finds in the area in this regard. We liked the dining experience at our hotel – Fàula Ristorante –

yet there is much more for fine-dining lovers in the surroundings. Come back later to check out my reporting on staying and dining in style in the Langhe wine region.

3. Stresa, Italian Lakes (Lake Maggiore) near Switzerland, 3rd stop Piedmont itinerary

The small town of Stresa is located on the western shores of Lake Maggiore, the longest of all Italian lakes. It has been a bathing resort since the late 18th century. The rather touristy place

is known for its lovely board walk, the splendid villas and the magnificent grand hotels from the Belle Époque period. And it is a perfect gateway for visiting the famous Borromean Islands.

At a later point of time, I will inform on things to do here in a separate blogpost.

Our main reason to choose Stresa above other spots in the Italian Lakes region was a newly opened luxury hotel. It is about Boutique Hotel Stresa (my review). This accommodation with 26 wonderful rooms

has a prime location just by the lake.

Furthermore, it is adjacent to the historic town center and five minutes by foot away from the jetty. Plus, it is a true beauty thanks to its successful architecture, a mix between old and new.

When it comes to fine dining in Stresa, LeBolle Restaurant at Boutique Hotel Stresa is a very good choice. You can have here contemporary Italian food with a twist either in its chic interiors or on the outdoor area. When doing the latter, make sure to make a reservation in one of the five bubbles, which is an enjoyable thing to do.

I have two more Michelin fine-dining recommendations for you in Stresa’s neighborhood. You will find all about staying and dining in Stresa in my detail report to follow on my blog,

4. Valleé de Joux (near Lake Geneva), Swiss west, side trip

On hour way home form our Piedmont itinerary, my husband and I made a stop in the Swiss west, precisely in the Valleé de Joux.

We have been in the area many years ago and wanted to revisit ever since. At the time, we liked the rugged and unspoilt valley nestled between Jura Mountain ranges. Now, as an upscale hotel has opened here not so long ago, we found that the right time for this undertaking has come. It is about Hotel des Horlogers (Watchmaker Hotel).

You can reach the hotel that is owned by a famous watchmaker company in about 40 minutes by car from Lake Geneva.

I must say that the property truly is a masterful engineering and design achievement.

And all the 50 guest rooms come with a stunning view of the Risoud forest.

While service at the reception was immaculate, the one at the restaurant was a bit uninspired. We had the Food Lovers package at their Michelin listed Brasserie Le Gogant, which included a four-course discovery meal. Food was good yet not overly inventive, given the place is overseen by a three-star Michelin chef.

Sadly, a booking at La Table des Horlogers (Carte Blanche du Chef) was not possible. Overall, we had a decent enough experience at Hotel des Horlogers, but we probably would not return.

What is next in my Italy’s Piedmont reporting

Whereas I will not go further into our two “stopovers” in Caluso/Piedmont and Valleé de Joux/western Switzerland, there will be more about the two main destinations on our Piedmont itinerary. These are the Langhe wine region around Alba and the town of Stresa on the Lake Maggiore. My reporting will include the two high-end accommodations – Casa di Langa near Alba and Boutique Hotel Stresa. I will also inform about the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants (Langhe, Stresa), both at the hotels and nearby. Finally, there will be blogposts about things to do in both places (Langhe, Stresa), especially for those who like walking as my husband and I do.

Date of stay: July 2024

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Lake Garda in the Italian Lakes region in north Italy has been on my bucket list for a long time. And as it makes a good combination with the South Tyrol, where my husband and I had planned to go in late summer, we decided to finally realize a stay here. When it came to where to go exactly, I came across Gardone Riviera on its southwestern shore by chance. I had heard about a Michelin starred restaurant here that seems to be a must-be for fine dining lovers, Lido 84. And so I had checked out the nearby luxury hotels, and liked what I found, especially so Grand Hotel Fasano. Plus, the town is considered as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. After all this positive information, I knew that Gardone Riviera was our destination for staying and dining in style on Lake Garda!

I already gave a hint, we did not only go to the Lake Garda area on this journey, but visited several places in north Italy and one in west Switzerland. Find out all about our 14-day road trip in the next section, before I go into Gardone Riviera. And this to let you know about its finest high-end hotel.

14-day itinerary through north Italy & west Switzerland

As indicated, we paired the South Tyrol (our first destination), where we made two stops, with Lake Garda. Afterwards, we returned to Switzerland. But instead of heading home, we made one more stay on Lake Geneva. Check out my overview post if you want to know the details of our 14-day journey through northeast Italy and west Switzerland. In case you rather want information of combining Italy’s northwest with France’s south, have a look at my 11-day itinerary that we did in 2021.

As to our way of traveling, we stay at high-end hotels and dine at Michelin (star) restaurants as long as we consider their pricing as somewhat reasonable. We do not pay prohibitive rates!

This is the moment to continue with Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda, precisely with the luxury hotel of our choice at this spot. If you want to know what activities to undertake here, I mentioned some in my itinerary post.

Staying in style at Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera

Grand Hotel Fasano is one of several old word accommodations in Gardone Riviera, mostly built in the late 19th century. In my view, out of them, Grand Hotel Gardone

is the most impressive. And this mainly because of its size, the main building is incredibly long! At the time, there were 300 guest rooms, all facing south (now you find 167 on site). From what I read, this hotel will undergo a 45 million euro renovation as of 2024. Once done, it will be managed by Apex Alliance Hotel Management (Hilton, Marriott, Radisson).

But back to Grand Hotel Fasano, our choice in Gardone Riviera. For me, it is the most beautiful grand hotel in town. More to its other features in the sections to follow. I begin with its back story before going into location, ambiance/staff, rooms/pricing, restaurants and other facilities.

Grand Hotel Fasano’s back story

Grand Hotel Fasano was built in neo-Classical style in 1888. While it originally was a hunting lodge for the Austrian imperial family, it was converted into a luxury hotel later on. The property got its name (Fasano) from the word fasaneria (pheasantry). In the years to follow, the hotel saw many prominent guests. While there were mostly aristocrats in the beginning, later on show-biz celebrities took over. Shirley Temple, Federico Fellini or Marcello Mastroianni stayed here, to name a few.

During the Second World War Grand Hotel Fasano was turned into a military hospital. After the war, the property was in a pitiful state. For example, the wooden floors were torn up as they had been used as firewood. Nevertheless, the hotel opened quite soon again for the summer season of 1948. This time, the clientele mostly was middle class. In 1962, the hotel undertook an expansion (the third) and a thorough renovation, which made it possible for the Fasano to become a high-end establishment again. Finally, in 1989, it was declared a National Heritage by the Italian government.

Grand Hotel Fasano is family owned by the Mayrs – stemming from the South Tyrol – in the third generation. Nowadays, it is run this by the brother duo of Olliver and Patrick Mayr. Over the years, the hotel has constantly been refurbished and modernized. In 2007, a spa was added. The more recent renovations transported the property into the five-star superior category. In 2022, the Fasano became member of the exclusive hotel group of The Leading Hotels of the World. And the latest highlight is the large-scale makeover of the spa, realized for the hotel’s 135th birthday in 2023.

Location

You know by now that we are here on Lake Garda in north Italy, and this on its southwestern shore. The stretch of coast where it lies is called Lemon Riviera. And this thanks to its mild microclimate which lets Mediterranean plants grow.

As to Grand Hotel Fasano’s location, you have to be aware that the small town of Gardone Riviera is quite an elongated one. There are two districts by the lake, Gardone and Fasano. And to make it even more complicated, there are two more on the hillside. Yet this is of no importance in this context. Anyway, the district of Fasano, where the hotel is situated – hence the name – , is not where the center is. To get to it – to Gardone’s lungolago (lakeside promenade) and the jetty – , you have to walk for about 15 minutes. But it is no big deal, and there is even an elevated sidewalk for most of the way. Otherwise, Grand Hotel Fasano’s situation is exceptionally beautiful. It is in set in a majestic building on the lakeshore, surrounded by beautiful gardens.

The next bigger town in the area is Salò (10,000 inhabitants), about five minutes by car away. Yet you can easily get there by foot too (1 h), my husband and I did it once.

Getting to Gardone Riviera from Brescia, the provincial capital, is only possible by car (35 minutes) or bus (1 h 30 minutes). You find in this city also an airport, another one is in Verona (1 h by car to Gardone Riviera).

Ambiance/Staff at Grand Hotel Fasano

Staying at a grand hotel is always a special experience, and doing so at such a splendid one as the Fasano even more so. The owner family went to great lengths to maintain an old world feel without closing themselves off to modernism. I could imagine that the room and the terrace where breakfast is served have not much changed over the years. The same is true for the service here. When you show up for breakfast, you are accompanied by the maître d’ to your table, and this without exception. That has style, and this without being stiff or overly formal.

While the reception area makes the impression of having been unchanged since the beginning, other public spaces just as the lobby/library area got a fresh new look.

As to the guest rooms, I understand that some of them are fully and other partially renovated. From the pictures on the website, I gathered that there are accommodations both in a classic style and in a contemporary one. More about the room my husband and I had you find in the respective section to follow.

As to the staff’s attitude, it was spotless throughout our stay. I found that the one at the reception desk did a particularly good job. They were hospitable, efficient and professional whenever we got in touch with them. Yet also the staff at breakfast was able to convince. As to the service at Grand Hotel Fasano’s restaurants, our one and only dinner here (Il Fagiano) was a success, service and food wise (details to the latter follow).

Rooms/Pricing

There are 79 rooms in total, available in many categories, different styles (classic or modern) and renovated to various degrees (partly or completely). Rates start at 260 € for the Standard Room (20 – 25 sqm, no lake view) in low season. The next higher category is the Superior Room (from 364 €, 20 to 25 sqm, partial or full sea view), followed by the Deluxe Room Lake View (from 462 €, 30 to 35 sqm, with balcony). The best room category (without suites) is the Executive Room Lake View (from 554 €, 40 to 50 sqm, with balcony).

I found it not easy to orientate within the website when it came to choose the right room for our needs. We usually go for a spacious enough accommodation with a view, and as many people we prefer it to be recently renovated. In terms of style, we rather go for a modern one, yet we are not averse to classics ones as long as they are well kept. Anyway, we finally opted for the Executive Room Lake View. Find in the next section more details to this room category.

Executive Room Lake View: our choice of room at Grand Hotel Fasano

We got a completely renovated, modern styled room on the third floor (British: second floor). And that was actually what we had been hoping for (there are also classically styled rooms). If you prefer a certain style, I advise on being specific about your wishes. The same is true for the floor. The one we had was perfect. One higher up is probably even better, however one lower is not so good (view is a bit marred by the roof of the restaurant terrace below).

As to the room features, I was astonished to see that once entering the accommodation you are in the middle of the bathroom. It is not separated from the bedroom, yet at least there is a wardrobe (and a seating area) between bath tub and bed.

In this context, I noticed that the bath tub at the Deluxe Room Lake View category is only separated by a curtain! This has to suit you …

Apart from the open bath room – from which I am not a fan – , I was very much in favor of our room! It appeared exceptionally spacious to me. There are two seating areas, one was just behind the wardrobe I mentioned, which we rarely made use of. The other is right by the window, and it is about two swivel upholstered armchairs. The latter feature is really a fun element in here, I liked them a lot! They are great in case the weather does not allow to sit on the balcony. In the end, we did not use them as often as we had thought initially as the weather was warm and sunny all the time.

As to the balcony, the views from here are gorgeous. I sat here many times, taken from all this beauty around me.

Overall Executive Room Lake View

The room very much appealed to me – including the color scheme. However, some elements are not on the practical side. This is about the open bathroom and the somewhat small wardrobe. Yet also the baggage area is located at a spot where you usually do not need it. Precisely, it is opposite the bed, quite a distance from the wardrobe.

Restaurants at Grand Hotel Fasano

When staying at the Fasano, you have four restaurants at your disposal. Three of them are on site, one (La Darsena Ristorante & Pizzeria) is in Barbarano, half an hour by foot or five minutes by car away. As to the ones at the hotel, the Magnolia is only open for lunch, the two others only for dinner.

In terms of the latter, Il Fagiano is the flagship dining spot, with creative, contemporary Italian cuisine (one Michelin star).

The other one, Il Pescatore, is a trattoria, which is a bit less formal than the former. The specialty here is fish in particular, as the name suggests. My husband and I had dined at Il Fagiano on one evening. Learn about how it was in my next blogpost where I go into dining in style in Gardone Riviera. We were at all the four Michelin (starred) dining spots in town, so I can provide a good overview.

Furthermore, Grand Hotel Fasano has three spots for having drinks and snacks. These are the lobby, the Gin Lounge or La Terrazza (outdoor area).

Other facilities

Park & outdoor pools

In case you are a sunbather, Grand Hotel Fasano is ideal for this kind of activity (or rather inactivity). You find here a stunning 12,000 sqm park, filled with magnolias, palm and banana trees.

If you want to swim, you can do this in the lake or the two (not so big) pools. One is heated, the other not. As to the indoor pools, I go briefly into them in the next section.

Spa

I mentioned it above, the spa experienced a total overhaul and first opened its doors in March 2023 after these works. So, it is brand-new! I have to admit, I  did not use it, so I can neither comment nor provide pictures. But here are a few facts about it.

The AQVA SPA 2.0 covers over 3,500 sqm and consists of five different areas. First, there are an indoor pool and a panoramic whirlpool. You can also swim from the indoor pool area to the outdoor one through a so-called adventure tunnel. Second, if you have kids, you can use the family steam bath. Third, you find on site a large sauna area complete with Finnish sauna, Roman steam bath, Vitarium (herbal steam bath) and Tepidarium (hot relaxation room). Forth, for relaxation you can decide between the winter garden or the relaxation room. And fifth, AVEDA’s Ayurvedic treatments and SOTHYS’ massages are available.

In addition, they offer classes (pilates and yoga), a fitness center with Technogym equipment, a hairdresser corner (external service) and a wellness buffet with refreshments.

Overall Grand Hotel Fasano

Grand Hotel Fasano is for sure one of the top addresses for discerning guests looking for an enjoyable stay on Lake Garda. You are here at a stately late 19th century castle surrounded by lush grounds and located directly on the lake. The premises are perfectly kept with lots of renovation works done in recent years (guest rooms and spa). Dining options are varied and also include a Michelin listed restaurant. Service is impeccable, and the clientele is (pleasantly) diverse, I think, thanks to being a member of The Leading Hotels of the World.

Location wise, you are here in one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. There are two major sights in town and many more in the surroundings. Furthermore, Gardone Riviera lies on the Lemon Riviera. This stretch of coast boasts a Mediterranean-like microclimate, which lets citrus fruits grow – hence the name.

Looking back and forward

As announced, there will be more info on dining in style in Gardone Riviera in a blogpost to come. I will cover all the Michelin (starred) restaurants in town.

The post after next goes in the same direction. However, we are talking about the Montreux area on Lake Geneva in west Switzerland. This was the last stop of a 14-day road trip through northern Italy & western Switzerland in style of my husband and me. And as far as this destination is concerned, I will go into the only two one-star Michelin restaurants in the town of Montreux. When it comes to staying in style here, a former blogpost of mine was about that.

All that is left for me to do is letting you know which destinations we went before Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda. This is about two spots in the South Tyrol, the village of Tirolo above Merano and the Sarentino valley above Bolzano.

Date of stay: September 2023

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Yet again my husband and I made a find on our never-ending journey of chasing down Michelin stars. And this in a place we would have never dreamed of being successful in this mission. The restaurant (with premium hotel) is located in a remote spot in Sarentino valley in the Sarentino Alps. And imagine, you are here only a bit more than half an hour away from Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital. This is about Hotel Terra The Magic Place, a Relais & Châteaux property, with its two-star Michelin Restaurant Terra. The name could not been more true! There is nothing far and wide, except a ski hut and this exceptional accommodation. Hotel Terra underwent a thorough renovation in recent years and offers high quality premises, boutique style.

Before I give you more information about Hotel Terra The Magic Place, first to the trip itinerary, from which this stay was part of. Precisely, it was the second stop after the nearby Merano, probably South Tyrol’s most popular town for vacationers.

Journey itinerary northern Italy and western Switzerland

Starting in Switzerland, our home country, we left for the Merano (Tirolo) area and afterwards to Bolzano’s further surroundings (Sarentino valley). After these two stops in Italiy’s most northeastern province of South Tyrol, we headed south, yet not too far. And this to Lake Garda. Here we had chosen a spot on its southwestern shore, the small town of Gardone Riviera (hotel/restaurants). This was our last destination in Italy before going back to Switzerland, precisely the Lake Geneva region. And here we had opted for Montreux. See also my overview post of this trip.

In case you should be interested rather in northwestern Italy, meaning Piedmont and Italian Riviera (plus south of France), here is another trip itinerary, undertaken in 2021. On both journeys, staying in luxury hotels and dining in Michelin (star) restaurants was important to us. But this only if prices for doing so were not excessive.

Now to our stay in the the Sarentino valley.

Staying in style at Hotel Terra The Magic Place Sarentino valley

Location

I already gave some hints as to this premium hotel’s situation (Sarentino valley in the Sarentino Alps above Bolzano in South Tyrol). In case you come from Bolzano in the south, you get to the valley’s capital of Sarentino in less than half an hour. From here you have to drive 15 more minutes on a narrow winding road to reach Hotel Terra The Magic Place. While there is not much traffic on this stretch of road, be prepared to face the one or other difficult situation when meeting oncoming cars!

If you should arrive from north, then you probably started in Austria. From Innsbruck you need about two hours to get here, crossing the Brenner pass. This is a mountain pass over the Alps, which forms the border between Italy and Austria.

While you are in Sarentino at 980 m/3,315 ft above sea level, Hotel Terra The Magic Place is much higher up, at 1,622 m/5,322 ft above sea level. Once at this spot (Prati/Auen), you are in the middle of nature. There is lots of forest around, it is hilly, and you have this fantastic view of the Dolomites mountain range, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Hotel Terra The Magic Place’s backstory

Johann Brugger, the grandfather of the sibling pair owning Hotel Terra The Magic Place, Gisela and Heinrich Schneider, laid the foundation stone for this property. He built the adjoining Sarner Ski Hut at the time when the ski trails were still trodden by foot. Resi, his oldest daughter (Gisela and Heinrich’s mother), got to know her future husband while helping out in this ski hut. Together they built up Hotel Auener Hof (former name of Hotel Terra), which was no easy thing as there was no electricity in the beginning.

The Schneider family loved fine food. And so they used to dine at gourmet restaurants when a special occasion arose. In 1998, Gisela and Heinrich took over the family business, when having finished their studies. They were young at the time (23 and 26 years old), and it was no easy undertaking. Their plan was it to transform the Auener Hof into a gourmet hotel. Heinrich, the chef, was very passionate about food. But he did not have much time to do internships and to learn from the masters. So, he went his own way (more about this later on).

In 2008, Heinrich Schneider got his first Michelin star, which was a big motivation for the Schneiders. Together with Gisela, responsible for the front of house, they aimed at new goals. Gisela’s partner, Karl Manfredi, joined them in the business, and they took the first step, the hotel’s renovation. In 2014, they became a member of the Relais & Châteaux hotel group. And in 2017, they got their second Michelin star! Shortly afterwards, the Auener Hof was renamed in Hotel Terra The Magic Place.

Ambiance/Service

When stepping foot in Hotel Terra The Magic Place, you are still under the impression of the somewhat difficult drive on that access road. And you still cannot believe that this place is real, a premium hotel with a two-star Michelin restaurant in this isolated spot! A modernist version of an Alpine chalet awaits you, wood in combination with large window fronts. And it feels boutique here.

Gisela Schneider awaited us behind the counter and ushered us right away to a seating area. Here she served us a welcome drink and home made crackers. And she asked us to fill in a form as to our wishes for breakfast. The offerings sounded promising, and we were already looking forward to this meal (do not miss the warm apple tart)! As to her person, she is friendly and helpful yet I found her to be quite understated. We found her brother, whom we talked to on our departure, to be more open.

Having said, we liked the vibe at the premises, be it at the restaurant or elsewhere. The atmosphere is laid-back and unpretentious. And every time when leaving our room, we encountered Gisela, either on her own or along with her husband and/or her brother. It is clearly a family affair at the Terra. Other staff we met, in particular two servers during dinner and the one or other chef appearing at our table, were all polite and professional.

Rooms/pricing at Hotel Terra The Magic Place

Ten room are at your disposal at this foodie hotel, all of them nicely furnished in a minimalistic style with lots of wood and decorated in natural hues. Out of these three are suites: Panorama Suite (the newest addition, 47 sqm & terrace 19.5 sqm), the Pine Studio Deluxe 46 sqm & terrace 25 sqm) and the Junior Suite (47 sqm & terrace 19.5 sqm).

When it comes to rooms, the Superior Room is actually the same as the Junior Suite, minus the additional room with a sofa bed (38 sqm & terrace 19.5 sqm). Then there is the Design Room (27 sqm) with access to a garden with two sun loungers at your disposal.

All the suites and rooms expect the Design Room category are south-facing, with views of the Dolomites, this stunning range of mountains, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Rates start at 340 € per room and night. In addition, there is a bunch of packages, starting from a one night stay to a five-night one. The least expensive price is 680 € and includes accommodation, breakfast and the Terra Experience Tasting Menu for two.

My husband and I went for the Junior Suite along with the Two-Night Romantic Getaway. Here is what to know about it.

Our choice of room & package: Junior Suite & 2-Night Romantic Getaway

As mentioned, 47 sqm await you plus 19.5 more on the the terrace. When booking, I had not realized that the second room (9 sqm) is not of much use for a couple. This space is not integrated in the main room but a separate bedroom for one to two children. It contains a sofa bed only and feels a bit claustrophobic. We actually entered the room only once, and this when checking it out on arrival. Opting for a Superior Room from the beginning would have been the smart move, as it is actually – as outlined – the same without the additional room.

The main room was spacious enough for the two of us. There is a small seating area plus a tiny desk with chair. What I liked much was the roomy walk-in closet and the generous terrace complete with table, two chairs and two sun loungers.

As to the bathroom, it is not huge yet adequately sized, coming with a large walk-in shower and double sinks.

In terms of package, the 2-Night Romantic Getaway includes two dinners in the Michelin-two star Restaurant Terra. On the first day you get a down to earth five-course dinner, on the second a creative ten-course tasting menu (Terra Experience). Also part of the package is a fabulous breakfast that you receive in a separate room adjoining the dining-room. And much appreciated by us, everything is served, no need to stand up and to help yourself from a buffet

Last but not least, a bottle of sparkling wine and a chocolate bar were laid out in our room on our arrival.

Other facilities/activities Hotel Terra The Magic Place

Apart from the main dining room and the breakfast restaurant there is not much as to public space. Adjoining the reception area is some kind of library/lounge.

And since recently, you find onsite a small but fine wellness area. It is located on the property’s top floor and is only open in the afternoon. There is a jacuzzi with views of the Dolomites mountain range, a Finnish sauna and a herbal steam bath plus a relaxation area. In addition, you can book an array of massages and other treatments. We did not go to the spa so I cannot provide any pictures. Yet it looks promising on the website.

What we did here, and which is THE thing to do here, is hiking. The most popular hike in the area is the one to the Stone Men (see also on the hotel’s website).

My husband and I followed the following trail (outdooractive). However, we did an additional loop to the Kreuzjoch (see my tracked trail, only the one back, on outdooractive). And it is well worth as you have a great panoramic vista from here.

After all these details about staying in style at Hotel Terra The Magic Place, now to what it offers with regard to dining in style. And this is impressive!

Dining in style at Restaurant Terra Sarentino valley

As you know so far, a Michelin two-star dining experience awaits you at Restaurant Terra. Before I dive into it, a few lines about the chef and its cuisine.

Chef/Cuisine

You have already learnt that the chef, Heinrich Schneider, did not do many internships at other restaurants. He does not have a mentor either. Instead, he describes himself as self-taught – although having done an apprenticeship as a chef. Yet, he rather took inspiration from his surroundings than from grand masters. His cuisine’s DNA is all about wild herbs and plants. And he uses those growing around the property, just as his mother did. He collects them himself, and he does this on his own. At some time in the past, he even did a training in this field, to get to know other, lesser known herbs.

As far as other ingredients are concerned, he tries to source locally whenever possible. He wants to offer his guests produce they cannot taste elsewhere. Yet, in case he thinks that for example caviar is necessary for a certain dish, then he does not shy away from using it. Although, he has to buy it from another region or even from abroad.

Dinner experience at Restaurant Terra

As I let you know, my husband and I dined twice at Restaurant Terra, on subsequent days (we had booked the 2-Night Romantic Getaway). So, we had two different experiences, one a bit more grounded, the other sophisticated.

Design

Before describing how it is dining here, some lines to the dining spot’s look. I was astonished to discover that the elegant dining-room is not only airy, but elegant and modern at the same time. You still have to consider we are here up in the mountains, in an off-the-beaten-path place. There are two prominent features that catches your eye. First, there is the suspended, glass-walled wine room above your heads, Gisela Schneider’s empire (she is a sommeliere too).

It is in competition with the huge picture windows providing a stunning view over the mountain world.

In addition, you find here an open kitchen where you can watch the chef working along his team. I have to say I was impressed by Terra’s appearance!

But that was not the only thing that made a lasting impact on us.

Day 1: The Chef’s Childhood Memories

We started our “gourmet dinner marathon” at Hotel Terra The Magic Place with the more down to earth experience. Having said that, it did not lack refinement.

The start made a praline of dried mushroom along with cornflower. From the very first moment, the chef makes clear what his cuisine is about, wild plants and herbs. Next, was the bread, rye and spelt sourdough bread along with local butter and spruce tree shoots oil. When doing research about the chef, I found out that he has an ambivalent relation to bread. He thinks that it is not a necessity when having a tasting meal. This because it can steal your appetite. And consequently, it may rob you out of the fun of fine dining. There is something about that!

We continued with carrot tartar, paired with cress and herbal salsa, followed by buckwheat risotto in unison with mountain cheese. Afterwards we got pasta – of course, we are in Italy. But it was not the usual one, precisely spaghetti made with yeast and egg, which results in a different taste. The accompanying herbs were waldmeister and yarrow.

The main course was braised meat, glazed ox cheeks with peas-mint cream. We ended with amaretti curd cheese dumplings, paired with apricots and basil ice-cream plus some petit fours. And this dish is clearly a reminiscence of South Tyrol’s past as part of Austria.

Day 2: The Terra Nature Experience

The second dinner at Hotel Terra The Magic Place was the turn of the whole shebang! The menu was written down on an overlong piece of paper, quite an event that was! Hence, I will not go into all the details of the meal. I will not always mention it, yet each and every dish contained at least one wild herb and/or plant. And I have to admit, many of them were unknown to me.

We warmed up with a variety of snacks, each of those an artwork in itself. And the whole was accompanied by dry ice mist, which is time and time again quite a sight. Next was a variation of the rainbow trout, followed by a trio of dishes without any apparent connection (at least to me). Among them, liquid cheese gnocchi. Then it was up to another Italian influenced course, a glazed “jumbo” ravioli with fresh herbs. It came with the same bread we had the day before.

The dinner continued with a fish dish, brook trout in burnt milk. Yet another ravioli was served, this time with beetroot and nettles. The last savory course was deer in two preparations, as praline and as saddle.

Ultimately, it was time for desserts. First, there was a white strawberry sphere along with a medley of cow parsley granita and spruce oil stones. The second one was also split in two. There was a cone filled with rye foam and wheat grass on the one hand. On the other hand, a composition made of verbana sorbet, raspberry, yoghurt, thyme and iced milk joined in. A small tea ceremony set the final point, consisting of herbal tea and an assortment of petit-fours.

How was it?

Not every day, you get the chance to dine at one and the same two-star Michelin restaurant two days in a row. To avoid a repetitive experience, it was essential that the two meals were totally different. And Heinrich Schneider managed this task very well. While one meal was rather on the rustic side – yet refined enough for a high-end dining spot – , the other one was culinary fireworks, for both eyes and palate. You well notice the chef’s love for his home, the mountains and their produce. The bounty of nature is really astonishing, all these edible items that are around. And he knows exactly how to incorporate them in his menus to achieve maximum effect.

All the courses we had were immaculately prepared and beautifully arranged. And the sometimes colorful herbs definitely helped to strengthen the impression. My favorite dishes were probably the “jumbo” ravioli and the desserts,

which were balanced tasting experiences. I already said a few words to ambiance and service above. To add to these, both evenings passed seamlessly, with everything perfectly orchestrated.

If I want to picky, then I would point out one thing that did not add up to me. And this is the second course in the menu “The Chef’s Childhood Memories” (first day). I cannot imagine that Heinrich Schneider was served carrot tartare as a child as this dish rather seems to be a “newfangled” one. While this is not utterly relevant, there was some other thing about it. The carrot tartar was the only course I was not a particular fan of. I found it quite heavy and the portion as too sizable. But otherwise, the chef’s performance was convincing. The gourmet dinners “in a double pack” at Hotel Terra The Magic Place delivered what they promised – and we enjoyed it!

Overall Hotel Terra The Magic Place

The total package at Hotel Terra The Magic Place in the remote Sarentino valley high above Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital is amazing! If you are a nature and fine dining lover likewise, then I strongly recommend looking into this place. In case you like staying in style too plus you are into hiking in the mountains, I cannot think of a better spot than this boutique lodging. A two-star Michelin restaurant plus newly renovated premises await you here in the Sarentino Alps. Furthermore, an engaged and capable sibling pair is in charge here at Hotel Terra The Magic Place. She is the host, and he is the chef.

To top this already astonishing performance, you have the most remarkable view of the Dolomites mountain range, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, from here. Plus, in case you should be into records, Hotel Terra The Magic Place hosts the highest located Michelin star in whole Italy. In addition, the chef has his unique style when it comes to preparing and serving food. Grown up in the mountains and not having done lots of internships at other restaurants, he became THE connoisseur as to wild herbs and plants.

Looking back and forward

The stay at Hotel Terra The Magic Place is part of a mini-series about a trip to northeastern Italy and western Switzerland. It covers four stops in total, two in South Tyrol, one on Lake Garda and one on Lake Geneva. This very post went into the second destination. For the itinerary of this 14-day journey, check out my overview blogpost. Next on my blog you will find out about a four-day stay on Lake Garda, at the fabulous Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera.

It is located on the southwestern shore of Italy’s largest lake, near the town of Salò. Expect information about where to stay and dine in style. And the latter concerns all the four restaurants in town that are included in the Michelin Guide.

Date of stay: September 2023

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The post Staying & dining in style at Hotel Terra The Magic Place in the Sarentino valley in South Tyrol, Italy first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Staying & dining in style at Hotel Terra The Magic Place in the Sarentino valley in South Tyrol, Italy appeared first on Swiss Traveler.