When Skin’s – the Restaurant was opened end of May 2022, there was hope for a Michelin star in the near future. Four months later, head chef Kevin Romes and his team’s efforts resulted not in one star but two of them! This was a small sensation, also for the owner of Skin’s, Felix Bertram. He is a medical doctor and founder of Skinmed, a clinic for dermatology and plastic surgery. And this healthcare facility is at the same spot as Skin’s Restaurant Lenzburg.

While I have had the restaurant on my radar since its beginning, I have dined here only recently. And so much I can tell you, it was one of the best dining experiences I have had in the recent past! In this context, I also have to mention that the dining spot’s performance was 15 points worth to Gault Millau. Find in the following some of Skin’s backstory and how it is to have dinner here.

Skin’s – the Restaurant’s backstory

I just mentioned it, Skin’s Restaurant Lenzburg is the product of a successful entrepreneur, Felix Bertram. In 2018, he opened Skinmed, a clinic for dermatology and plastic surgery, at a former industrial site in Lenzburg. This is a small town about half way between Zurich and Olten in northwestern Switzerland. The architect who was responsible for the construction of the high rise which houses the clinic

gave him a present. This was a cooking class at the Michelin two-star Restaurant Einstein in Saint Gallen (see my post about it).

And this was where he met chef Kevin Romes and Pascal Hobler, now sous chef at Skin’s.

Felix Bertram thinks that good nutrition is beneficial for beauty and health. In addition, he sees parallels between high-end cuisine and his clinic, and this regarding quality and precision. So, he decided to open a fine dining restaurant. He wanted to have Kevin Romes as head chef, who said yes. The same was true for Pascal Hobler, the sous chef. The duo has lots of freedoms from the side of the owner. The only food which they are not allowed to serve is meat from young animals, stuffed liver and similar things.

As mentioned, both the clinic and the restaurant are on the grounds of a former industrial company. It is about Hero, a producer of canned food. Quite some time ago, this company has moved to Lenzburg’s periphery. So, Skinmed found a domicile just by the town’s train station. To realize Skin’s – the Restaurant, it was necessary to expand, and this by including Hero’s former tinsmithery. A reconstruction was necessary, which costed about 1.5 million SFR/US$.

Skin’s concept: two in one

There are two operations under the Skin’s label. On the one hand, there is the fine dining spot Skin’s – the Restaurant. That is what I am going into. On the other hand, there is Skin’s – the Kitchen. The latter offers lunch service from Monday to Friday. Staff from Skinmed and other nearby companies can make use of it. Customers have to order and pay one of several one pots (about 20 SFR/US$) beforehand. They can have the meal either in-house or take it out.

But now to the focus of my post, Skin’s – the Restaurant, the fine dining outlet. It is about top gastronomy, made of high-quality produce, locally sourced whenever possible. And the aim is to newly interpret tradition, drawing influences from all over the world. Furthermore, Kevin Romes thinks that reduction is the key when cooking in the field of high-end cuisine. In his opinion, perfection is the result of applying this principle.

The team at Skin’s Restaurant Lenzburg

I already informed you that Kevin Romes is in charge at Skin’s – the Restaurant. It is his first job as a head chef. Pascal Hobler stands by his side, as sous chef. Both used to work as sous-chefs at Michelin two-star Restaurant Einstein in Saint Gallen before. If you should be interested in this restaurant, have a look at my post about it. I have had dinner here on two occasions, and I tremendously enjoyed it both times. As to Kevin Romes’ other former work places, he had been “touring” many Michelin starred restaurants in Europe and Asia for ten years.

There are four more chefs in the kitchen team at Skin’s plus a kitchen steward and a patisserie consultant. In terms of service, there are four employees, and this under the lead of restaurant manager and sommelier Basile Schneider.

Location

As you already know, Skin’s – the Restaurant is in Lenzburg, a small town in the middle between Zurich and Olten, my home town. This place in Switzerland’s northwest is part of the canton Aargau, the country’s fourth largest as to the number of inhabitants. And it has been the canton’s first dining spot to receive two Michelin stars so far.

The former industrial site, where Skin’s is situated, is just by Lenzburg’s train station. You can reach the restaurant in a 20-minute train ride from either Zurich’s main train station or from Olten. By car, you need about 30 minutes to reach it from both towns. The restaurant’s entrance is just by the railroad tracks (where you can park your car), at the back of Hero’s former tinsmithery.

Ambiance/Staff at Skin’s – the Restaurant

You are here at a former tinsmithery, and there is still this industrial vibe. Skin’s entrance is impressive. There is a small reception area on the ground floor level. Behind a golden counter, a staff member awaits you. In case you are early, there is a comfortable seating area where you can settle down until your dinner companions arrive at Skin’s Restaurant Lenzburg.

If you party is all set, you can board the elevator which brings you up to the next floor. Here you enter the spacious restaurant premises.

It is all about industrial chic in here. The interiors are dark, warm wood tones are combined with blue.

The open cuisine is large and bright. Somehow it looks like an operation room as it has an exceedingly clean feel.

Staff is friendly, informative and relaxed. The latter both in attitude and attire (black clothes and white sneakers).

When the food arrives, often a chef appears too, pouring a sauce and saying a few words about the respective dish. It very much reminded me of my dining experience at Restaurant Einstein in Saint Gallen where parts of the team worked before. Personally, I like this approach as it allows some kind of interaction between guests and chefs.

Food menu at Skin’s Restaurant Lenzburg

When dining here, you can decide either to have the full menu (7 courses for 225 SFR/US$) or five out of seven courses. In the latter case, it is up to you which ones to order, which I find customer friendly. Compared to ten months prior, menu prices have risen. The 7-course menu was 185 SFR/US$, the 5-course menu 145 SFR/US$ at the time. This move is understandable, in view of the additional two Michelin stars and increased costs in general.

Three out of four of us went for the full experience, which lasted four hours. But I think you can do it in three and a half hours – our party needed quite some time for the wine evaluation, in between courses. Alternatively, you can choose the wine pairing (7-courses 130 SFR/US$, 5-courses 95 SFR/US$). There is also an alcohol free version (7-courses 80 SFR/US$, 5-courses 60 SFR/US$).

Now to what we got at Skin’s – the Restaurant.

7-course menu (225 SFR/US$)

The regular menu contains seafood and meat. Skin’s also offers a vegetarian menu, which you have to pre-order. A vegan version is not available.

Snacks

The snacks lived up to the restaurant’s name, each of them based on a different skin (fish, carrot and pork). In addition, the carrot cuboid was a reference to the canton Aargau – Skin’s home canton – , which is known as the “carrot canton”. Kevin Romes himself came to our table and explained the snacks to us.

Bread

The dinner proceeded with bread and butter. From what I understood, they do not serve a house bread but do bake different ones. On our day, it was a brioche bread, rich and fluffy, accompanied by a delicious hazelnut butter.

Amuse bouche

Beetroot was the star of the amuse bouche, in the form of a mousse and a pleasantly sour sauce.

The latter was poured tableside. We were told that they cook the beetroots for this dish during four hours so that they become black on the outside. For illustration, they brought along some examples.

1. Ring of Zen

Bonito – Shiso – BBQ Eel

The actual start of the menu made a ring of Zen. It was the first of two dishes that had a ring on the plate. This one was a flan made of bonito. On top of it there were grilled pieces of eel. Again, the dish was completed tableside, and this by filling the ring with a liquid made of shiso and cucumber.

2. Queen of the Sea

Carabinero – Jalapeño – Cauliflower

Next was one of the most sought after prawn among foodies, a Carabinero. This is a large deep-sea species, fished in depths of 400 to 800 m (1,312 to 2,625 ft). It was paired with a mild jalapeño foam and cauliflower tempura. A crustacean stock completed the dish, again poured tableside.

3. Sea Glider

Skate – Horseraddish – Beurre Blanc

The menu was continued with yet another sea food, this time a skate fish. The delicate sea creature was aromatized with horseradish and came with a tasty beurre blanc. This was by the way one of the few buttery sauces on the menu, most others were rather on the light side.

4. Trumpet Royale

King oyster mushroom – Umami – Leek

Nowadays, chefs must be able to create delightful vegetarian dishes. And it seems that they know at Skin’s how to do this! We got a king trumpet, the largest of the oyster mushroom genus, known for its meaty texture and umami flavor. And it did not disappoint, it was perfectly cooked and arranged on the second ring of the menu. The mushroom came in unison with leek, and once again the creation was finished tableside. And this by pouring a delicious jus around it.

5. Flight to the Bazaar

Pigeon – Vadouvan – Chick Pea

Then it was time for the main course, pigeon. A small piece of pigeon breast was combined with chickpea Oriental style. The dish was flavored with vaudouvan, the French version of a curry blend and ras el-hanout, a spice mixture from North Africa. A jus accompanied the arrangement, yet another time poured tableside.

6. Golden Mountain

Vacherin – Parsley – Kissabel

If we had not known that it was the cheese course, we would have not guessed from its look. But after the first spoonful, it was clear that it was! Vacherin cheese paired with parsley and Kissabel – a red-flesh apple – resulted in a creamy harmonic blend.

Pre-dessert

After so many exciting savory courses, it was the turn of the dessert. The start made one with vegetable, precisely lettuce. Hidden unter a lettuce, we found sponge cake with pear and walnut. The dessert was accompanied by a drink with a strong lettuce taste. So original!

7. Bush and Berry

Piedmontese Hazelnut – Red Currant

That was the last sauce poured tableside of tonight! And this time, it originated from the wood of the red currant bush that was pickled before. The resulting stock became the basis of a multi-layered creation made of vanilla mousse, a core of cassis and a Piedmontese hazelnut. The whole was paired with cassis granita and a creamy foam.

After-dessert

Not enough, there was one more sweet dish! And that was a mini chocolate soufflé with vanilla ice cream. A more conventional dish after the two unusual ones!

Petits Fours

The feast was rounded up with a few few petit fours, a pistachio macaron, a lemon yuzu tart with meringue and a dark chocolate praline filled with a liquid balsamic syrup.

Overall performance of Skin’s Restaurant Lenzburg

Food wise, it was one hell of an evening for our taste buds! Skin’s – the Restaurant never let them get restless. While the creations were often ingenious, they were never too aloof. All the courses were amazing, but the star for me was the Queen of the Sea, the Carabinero. The pairings suited each other perfectly! What made the experience at Skin’s unique for me were the sauces. I go so far as to say that Kevin Romes is the king of sauces! All of them were full of flavor, complex and different from each other. In most cases, they were poured tableside, which made the experience even more intense.

What I also appreciated at Skin’s was the fact that the size of portions was adequate. The serving sizes were large enough that you could really savor the dishes. An exception to this is maybe the main course where I would have liked the piece of pigeon to be a bit bigger. Yet in no case we had to leave the place still hungry!

A big compliment to the service team, too! Service under the lead of Basile Schneider was smooth, efficient and relaxed. Our party felt well at ease. The generous spacing between tables at Skin’ added to this impression. The lighting enhanced the casual laid-back atmosphere in here. There was a strong contrast between the dimmed light at the dining room and the brightly lit open cuisine.

It is so good to have a place like Skin’s in my (distant) neighborhood (Olten). And a good advice for every foodie in Zurich – and from elsewhere – , it is well worth to make the detour to Lenzburg! This is especially true as this new gourmet temple is just by the train station.

Date of visit: March 2023

Pin it on Pinterest

The post Dining at the 2-star Michelin Skin’s – the Restaurant Lenzburg Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Dining at the 2-star Michelin Skin’s – the Restaurant in Lenzburg/Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Wiederöffnung b_smart restaurant mit ausgebautem Speiseangebot & Bar:

Seit Montag, 13.03.2023, ist der “Storchen” in Schönenwerd wieder offen, neu unter dem Namen b_smart hotel & restaurant Schönenwerd! Der Betrieb war seit Weihnachten 2022 geschlossen und wurde umgebaut. Zimmer und Seminarräume erfuhren eine Renovation. Auch das Restaurant erhielt ein neues, zeitgemässes Gewand. Zusätzlich zum Speiselokal gibt es neu eine Bar, wo Kleinigkeiten aufgetischt werden. Trotz allem Neuen, Bewährtes bleibt! Das erfolgreiche Team an der Front und in der Küche ist dasselbe. Nach wie vor ist das Dream Team, Katharina und Daniel Sladek, am Ruder. Er als kreativer Kopf hinter den Töpfen, sie als Gastgeberin. Und fein ist die Küche im b_smart restaurant Schönenwerd noch immer, ausgezeichnet von Gault Millau mit 14 Punkten.

Zuerst ein paar Zeilen zur Entwicklung des ehemaligen “Storchens” und der Gruppe hinter b_smart hotel & restaurant Schönenwerd, bevor es dann um den Betrieb und insbesondere um sein Restaurant geht.

Vom Bally Hotel & Restaurant “Storchen”zum b_smart hotel & restaurant Schönenwerd

Das Hotel und Restaurant “Storchen” sind untrennbar mit den Bally Schuhfabriken verbunden. Diese bekannte Firma leistete sich nämlich eine eigene Herberge samt Gaststätte. Nachdem die Schuhproduktion in Schönenwerd in den 1990er-Jahren gestoppt wurde, stiess man auch den Hotelleriebetrieb ab. Die neuen Besitzer waren Monika und Peter Lustenberger, beide entstammen aus Hoteliersfamilien. Unter ihrer Führung entwickelte sich der “Storchen” zu einem gut laufenden 4 Sterne Seminar-Hotel samt Gourmet-Restaurant (14 Punkte Gault Millau).

Nach 25 Jahren des “Storchens” im Besitz des Ehepaars Lustenbergers kam es im Juli 2020 zum Verkauf an die b_smart selection, einen expandierenden Liechtensteiner Hotelbetreiber. Trotz dieses Wechsels sollte der Charakter des Betriebs erhalten bleiben. Auch übernahm man sämtliche 35 Mitarbeiter. Das waren natürlich gute Neuigkeiten sowohl für das Personal als auch für die Region Olten-Aarau. Nicht nur gibt es in der Umgebung wenige valable Beherbergungsstätten, sondern auch das Angebot an von Gault Millau ausgezeichneten Feinschmeckerlokalen ist eher bescheiden.

So weit, so gut, aber was ist das Besondere an der in der Region bisher nicht so bekannten Hotelgruppe b_smart selection?

Hotelkette b_smart selection mit Self Check-in

Die Hotelgruppe b_smart selection wurde 2014 gegründet, und zwar mit der Eröffnung eines b_smart motels im Osten der Schweiz an der Grenze zu Liechtenstein. Unterdessen ist das Portfolio dieser Liechtensteiner Hotelbetreiber auf rund 20 Betriebe in der Schweiz, dem Fürstentum Liechtenstein und in Österreich angewachsen.

Was diese Hotelkette von anderen unterscheidet, ist, dass alle Betriebe mit einem smarten Self Check-in ausgestattet sind. So kann rund um die Uhr eingecheckt werden. Dies soll beim ersten Mal um die drei Minuten dauern, ab dem zweiten weniger als anderthalb Minuten. Der Check-out ist genauso unproblematisch. Die Schlüsselkarte wird in die Check-out Box geworfen, die Rechnung gelangt per E-Mail an den Gast.

Während manche Hotels von b_smart selection über ein vollwertiges Restaurant verfügen, haben andere nur ein kleines Angebot zur schnellen Verpflegung. Obwohl gewisse Dinge wie der vorher erwähnte Check-in-Prozess bei allen Betrieben gleich sind, gibt es auch Raum für Individualität. Das kann das Erscheinungsbild sein oder die Art der Restauration.

Wie sieht das Ganze beim b_smart Unternehmen in Schönenwerd aus? Zuerst ein kurzer Blick auf die Hotellerie, bevor sich der Fokus auf die Gastronomie richtet.

b_smart hotel & flexi.motel Schönenwerd

In Schönenwerd existieren bei der b_smart selection sogar zwei Möglichkeiten, die Nacht zu verbringen. Beide befinden sich in der Nähe des Bahnhofs und bieten kostenlose Parkplätze an. Und selbstverständlich kommt der oben beschriebene Smart Self Check-in zum Einsatz.

Die gehobenere Beherbergungsstätte – b_smart hotel Schönenwerd – befindet sich im Hauptgebäude des ehemaligen Hotels Storchen, wo auch das Restaurant untergebracht ist. Dort kann ein Zimmer aus sechs verschiedenen Kategorien gewählt werden. Der Preis beinhaltet sowohl das Frühstück als auch die Benützung eines kleinen Fitnessraums.

Wer am Morgen nur einen Kaffee oder Tee möchte (im Preis inbegriffen), allenfalls noch mit einem Gipfeli, für den eignet sich das b_smart flexi.motel. Hier stehen vier verschiedene Zimmer-Kategorien zur Verfügung. Wünscht man trotzdem ein vollständiges Frühstück, ist dies zu einem Spezialpreis im Restaurant des Haupthauses erhältlich.

Wie sieht es nun beim kulinarischen Angebot von b_smart vor Ort aus?

b_smart restaurant & bar Schönenwerd

Das lokale Publikum interessiert sich natürlich vordergründig für die Kulinarik im ehemaligen “Storchen”. Und da kann Entwarnung gegeben werden für Foodies aus der Umgebung oder unter den Hotelgästen. Es bleibt nämlich alles beim Alten, und das ist eine gute Nachricht! Auch unter dem neuen Label b_smart restaurant & bar soll eine hochstehende Küche zelebriert werden. Zusätzlich zum eigentlichen Speiserestaurant gibt es neu auch eine Bar mit einer kleinen Karte. So können sich Hotelgäste – und natürlich auch die lokale Bevölkerung – schnell und gut verpflegen.

Bevor es zum Esserlebnis im Speiselokal geht, noch ein paar Worte zum Team in der Küche und im Service.

Leitungsteam im Restaurant

Im ehemaligen “Storchen” unter der Familie Lustenberger legte man stets viel Wert auf eine feine Küche. Mit der Anstellung des neuen Küchenchefs im Mai 2019 erfuhr dann deren Niveau noch eine Steigerung. Dies ist Daniel Sladek zu verdanken, der auch heute noch das Sagen in der Küche hat. Mit der Annahme dieser Stelle folgte er seiner Frau, die hier bereits seit einiger Zeit als Restaurantleiterin waltete. Glücklich vereint, auch am Arbeitsplatz, nahm das Ehepaar seine Arbeit auf.

Bereits Daniel Sladeks erstes Degustationsmenü im “Storchen” war ein Erfolg. Hier ist ein Bericht dazu plus ein paar Details zu seinem Werdegang. Auch bei Gault Millau konnte das Restaurant punkten, 14 waren ihm bereits im ersten Jahr sicher. Und diese konnten bis heute gehalten werden.

Ein baldiges Ende dieser Erfolgsgeschichte zeichnet sich auch nicht ab, trotz des Wechsels von der Familie Lustenberger zur b_smart selection. Im Gegenteil, es wurde investiert ins Restaurant, dazu mehr im nächsten Abschnitt. Vorher noch kurz zur Organisation im Leitungsteam von b_smart restaurant & bar Schönenwerd.

Mit dem Besitzerwechsel zur neuen Hotelgruppe wurde Katharina Sladek befördert. Sie ist nun als Resident Manager tätig. Als neue Restaurantleiterin wurde Kaltrina Kqira eingestellt. Sie hat die Lehre im Betrieb gemacht und ist nun nach einer Weiterbildung hierher zurückgekehrt. Nach wie vor ist Katharina Sladek auch an der Front anzutreffen. Sie hat die Rolle der Gastgeberin sozusagen im Blut.

Restaurant im neuen Kleid

Anlässlich eines Test-Lunches hatten mein Mann und ich die Gelegenheit, das neue b_smart restaurant & bar zu begutachten. Was für eine Perle ist daraus geworden! Nicht nur hat das Restaurant einen frischen, zeitgemässen Look erhalten, auch die Raumgestaltung hat Änderungen erfahren. Bereits früher wurde der Aussenbereich umgebaut. Daraus resultiert ist nicht nur mehr Platz, sondern auch eine ansprechende Holz-Terrasse, umgeben von neu gepflanzten Bäumen.

Was nun den neuen Innenbereich anbelangt, so wirkt dieser grosszügiger denn je. Der vordere Gastraum (zur Terrasse) ist zweigeteilt. Auf der einen Seite hat es leicht erhöhte Tische und Bänke, auf der anderen “normale” Tische und Stühle. Im hinteren Teil des Raums fällt der Blick sofort auf die neue Bar, gehalten in gedämpften Rot. Daran schliessen sich ein paar Hochtische und -stühle an.

Beim Eingang zum hinteren Gastraum findet die Bar eine beinahe nahtlose Fortsetzung in der Form eines “Buffets” (Getränkeherausgabe). Dieses hat dasselbe Design wie die Bar und ist ein wahrhafter “Eyecatcher”! Ansonsten finden sich hier Tische und Stühle, ähnlich wie im vorderen Raum im Teil gleich beim Fenster. Apropos Tische und Stühle, es ist hier casual fine dining angesagt. Die Teller mit den Speisen werden auf Holztische aufgetragen, es gibt weder Tischtücher noch -sets. Gesessen wird auf modernen Stühlen mit roten Beinen. Positiv fällt auf, dass es hier viel Privatsphäre gibt, der Abstand zwischen den Tischen ist recht gross.

Die Farbgestaltung ist “trendy”. Es ist ein Wechselspiel zwischen verschiedenen Blautönen und Holz. Nicht nur die Tische sind aus diesem Material, sondern auch der Boden. An den Wänden hängen Bilder, die an die Ära Bally erinnern, eine schöne Reminiszenz! Und auch wenn beim Dekor wenig an die Zeit unter der Familie Lustenberger erinnert, noch immer hier ist die Deckenbeleuchtung im Retro-Stil!

Essangebot im b_smart restaurant & bar Schönenwerd

Wie bereits angetönt, gibt es hier beides: etwas für Gäste, bei denen es schnell gehen muss oder die wenig Hunger haben, aber auch für diejenigen, denen ein genussvoller Abend voller kulinarischer Leckereien vorschwebt. Beim Test-Lunch, an dem mein Mann und ich teilnehmen durften, ging es um letzteres. Wir konnten bei dieser Gelegenheit schon mal die neue Speisekarte ausprobieren. Daneben wird es auch spannende Gerichte von einer Empfehlungstafel sowie ein Signature-Menü geben.

Daniel Sladek und sein Team bereiten alle Speisen mit viel Herzblut, Handarbeit und Liebe zum Detail zu. Es wird darauf geachtet, dass alle Produkte höchsten Qualitätsansprüchen genügen. Auch werden sie, wenn immer möglich, von regionalen Partnern bezogen.

Was steht auf der Speisekarte?

Der Blick auf die Speisekarte zeigt, dass hier der Frühling bereits eingezogen ist. Ingredienzen wie Bärlauch oder Spargeln finden sich darauf. Für den ersten Gang kann man sich zwischen drei Vorspeisen (9.50 bis 27 SFR) und zwei Suppen (9.50 bis 16 SFR) entscheiden. Mein Mann wählte das Schwertfisch-Carpaccio mit der Spargelvariation (27 SFR), ich das Rindstartar auf Gemüse-Tartelettes in der vegetarischen Variante, d.h. mit Falavel anstatt Fleisch (23 SFR).

Da es der Schwertfisch nicht bis nach Schönenwerd geschafft hatte – so liess uns die freundliche Restaurantleiterin

wissen – , gab es stattdessen Wolfsbarsch-Ceviche, was passte für meinen Mann.

Bei den Hauptspeisen steht eine grosse Bandbreite von Gerichten auf der Karte, vom gebackenen Spargelrisotto (32 SFR)

– die Wahl meines Manns – , über das Zanderfilet mit Bärlauch-Kruste und Spargel-Arancini (47 SFR)

– meine Wahl – , bis zum Duo vom Lamm mit Spargeln und Kartoffel-Stampf (48 SFR). Daneben ist auch Traditionelles erhältlich wie Wienerschnitzel vom Kalb mit Gemüse und Pommes Frites (42 SFR) oder Cordon Bleu vom Schwein mit denselben Beilagen (29 SFR). Schliesslich gibt es auch den b-smart-Burger (28 SFR) oder den Bauch vom Kräuterschwein mit Gemüse und Bratknödeln (35 SFR).

Wenn man dann das Essen noch mit einem dritten Gang abschliessen möchte, so hält die Karte einiges parat. Da sind mal die zwei Desserts: das kleinere, der Honig-Schaum mit Orange (9.50 SFR)

– was ich bestellte – oder das grössere, der Cheesecake mit Erdnussglace (14.50 SFR). Weiter hat es Mini Coupes (6.80 SFR), den Kalten Hugo mit Zitronensorbet, den Almtraum mit Alpenkräuterglace, den Dänemark oder den Eiskaffee mit Kirsch.

Den letzteren orderte mein Mann. Schliesslich gibt es die hausgemachte Glace und das Sorbet auch noch kugelweise (3.50 SFR) und als Frappee (8.50 SFR). Wer Käse liebt, dieser ist auch im Angebot, und zwar in zwei Grössen (12/16 SFR).

Wie war das Esserlebnis?

Einem geschenkten Gaul schaut man nicht ins Maul, heisst es im Volksmunde, aber ich tue es trotzdem! Daniel Sladek “hat es drauf”, nicht nur handwerklich, sondern auch vom Geschmack und der Kreativität her war alles tadellos! Die Portionen waren eher gross bemessen. Ich hätte zum Nachtisch eigentlich gerne noch den Cheesecake versucht, aber der lag nicht mehr drin. So entschied ich mich für den Honigschaum, der eine absolute Wucht war! So viel Aroma und ein tolles Zusammenspiel verschiedener Texturen. Auch mein Mann war begeistert von seinem Eiskaffee. Die Glace war reich an Geschmack und perfekt in der Konsistenz.

Auch alle anderen Gerichte, die wir hatten, überzeugten. Es begann mit einer delikaten Randenvariation als Amuse Bouche

und nahm seinen Fortgang bei den Vorspeisen. Sowohl die Falafel auf Tartelettes – was für ein feines Gebäck – als auch die Ceviche schmeckten himmlisch. Das war nicht anders bei den Hauptspeisen, einem perfekt gegarten Zander mit einer aromatischen Bärlauchkruste als auch den gebackenen Risotto-Kugeln mit Spargeln. Einzig zu beanstanden wäre vielleicht, dass die letzteren etwas zu wenig heiss waren. Schliesslich brillierte Daniel Sladek auch bei den Saucen, allesamt ein Hochgenuss!

In Sachen Service gibt es eigentlich auch nur Gutes zu berichten. Das Personal ist herzlich, professionell und kompetent. Das eine oder andere Mal mussten wir etwas lange warten, bis uns der Wein nachgeschenkt wurde. Ich denke jedoch, dass dies dem besonderen Rahmen des Test-Lunches geschuldet war. Es war doch “recht was los” an diesem Mittag (viele Familien mit oftmals kleinen Kindern).

Fazit b_smart restaurant

Das b_smart restaurant überzeugt nicht nur vom Kulinarischen her, auch das Lokal ist jetzt eine Augenweide! Der neue Look des Restaurants ist frisch, fröhlich und modern. Und das Essen ist nach wie vor grosse Klasse! Daniel Sladek hat zum Neustart eine durchdachte Speisekarte aufgelegt, die auf verschiedene Bedürfnisse eingeht. Es hat etwas für den Feinschmecker, aber auch für den Liebhaber von mehr traditionellen Speisen. Und bei der Ausführung spielt der Küchenchef seine (vielseitigen) Stärken aus. Da stimmt alles, von der Qualität der Produkte über deren Zubereitung bis zu ihrer Präsentation! Das positive Bild der Küche wird verstärkt durch die vorbildliche Gastfreundschaft der Service-Crew, angeführt von Katharina Sladek. Sie ist die Herzlichkeit in Person und findet stets die richtigen Worte. Und jetzt stimmt auch das Umfeld, ein grosszügiges Restaurant mit zeitgemässem Dekor!

Datum des Besuchs: 12.03.2023 (Einladung zum Test-Lunch)

Der Post “Der “Storchen” in Schönenwerd im neuen Kleid, jetzt als b_smart hotel & restaurant” erschien zuerst auf Swiss Traveler

Summary

This post is in German as it concerns a local dining spot in my home region of Olten-Aarau in Switzerland’s northwest. The former “Storchen” in Schoenenwerd between Olten and Aarau in Switzerland’s northwest had been closed for renovation since Christmas 2022. It reopened on Monday, the 13th of March 2023, new under b_smart hotel & restaurant Schoenenwerd. All the guest and seminar rooms were updated. The same is true for the restaurant which received a fresh, contemporary look. Yet nothing has changed as to the team in the kitchen and at the front, the great husband-and-wife team of Katharina and Daniel Sladek. And you still get here fine cuisine, awarded 14 points by Gault Millau.

The post Der “Storchen” in Schönenwerd im neuen Kleid, jetzt als b_smart hotel & restaurant appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

If you want to know where to head for great fine dining restaurants in the Olten-Aarau region outside of these two towns, then stay tuned. There are nine dining-spots you do want to miss if you are a foodie in the area. And this on top of the seven venues in Olten and the five in Aarau that I have introduced to you in my previous two posts. Earlier on, I also provided an overall overview of the culinary scene in the whole region.

Now to the specifics of the individual eateries, including food offerings, ambiance, service level and pricing. First, there will be a top restaurant, the one and only in the area. Then I will go into contemporary dining spots, before ending the post going into classic restaurants with a twist.

1. Top restaurants in Olten-Aarau’s fine dining scene

Traube Trimbach

I have dined here several times lately, after not visiting it for a while. And I have to admit, it is (still) top class! While its location just outside of Olten is not spectacular, its food offerings are (modernized classic cuisine). The chef, Arno Sgier, is a consummate professional indeed. Everything I had here on my recent meals was unbelievably good! Each of the dishes was not only expertly crafted, but also, refined, creative and inspired.

Do not expect less than culinary magic performed here! Also the service knows how to persuade. It is provided with professionalism, warmth and attentiveness. And the atmosphere in here is sophisticated without being pretentious.

The restaurant has one Michelin star and 17 Gault Millau points.

On offer here is the Traube Menu with six courses (160 SFR/US$), the Gourmet Menu with one course less (145 SFR/US$) or the Starters Menu with eight starters (190 SFR/US$).

2. Restaurants in Olten-Aarau with modern (innovative) fine dining

As in my previous posts about Olten and Aarau fine dining establishments, I start with the newer ones before coming to the longer established eateries. Those are Grosser Alexander in Baden and Loohof in Oftringen. Please note in this context that not all the restaurants I am going to write about are between Olten and Aarau. Some are even borderline candidates when it comes to belonging or not belonging to the area (Grosser Alexander in Baden), but in my view they are still part of “my region”.

Restaurant Grosser Alexander Baden

UPDATE: change of location & name as from July 2023, new Restaurant Paradies Baden

The relaxed dining spot in the old town of Baden

is my new discovery of the moment in my home region. Niklas Schneider, a young chef, offers modern casual fine dining in the evening and well-made soul food for lunch time. After opening in summer 2021, he was awarded 14 points Gault Millau only six months later, which is well deserved as I think.

You get here Nordic-French cuisine, reduced to the maximum and without frills.

You can opt for four, five or six courses, either from the dinner menu (110, 120 or 135FR/US$) or the vegetarian alternative (102, 112 or 125 FR/US$). As to service, I was astonished to see that the chef also acts as host, at least part time. While I liked the original creations full of taste, I found the serving sizes sometimes a bit on the small side.

Restaurant Loohof Oftringen

UPDATE: change of management end of 2022

This is also a newcomer in the Olten-Aarau region, Daniel Pittet

who is in charge at the Loohof above Oftringen, together with Michael Kumpusch. When he opened here in summer 2020, he started with more traditional food offerings and a small gourmet cellar with a seven-course menu (155 SFR/US$). Later on, he changed this concept. While the latter (gourmet atelier) was maintained, the classic à la carte menu was ditched. A multi-course fine dining menu took its place. You can choose 3/4/5 or more dishes (88/99/122/+25 SFR/US$). And this got him 14 Gault Millau points end of 2021. Furthermore, a family-style meal is also available at a big table.

The Loohof serves high quality market cuisine, locally sourced.

Most of the vegetables and herbs are grown in the restaurant’s own garden. The chef is a real character and seems to be everywhere simultaneously. And you also find here one of the best outdoor area in the region!

Restaurant Silvio’s Ampère Rupperswil (previous post)

Silvio’s Ampère is quite an unusual eatery. It is tiny (about 50 sqm including kitchen, toilet etc) and housed at an ancient transformer station of a spinning mill.

Hence its name, and Silvio was the former restaurant owner. Nowadays, a husband-wife team – Micheal and Iris Lang – runs this place just by a water channel complete with quite a noisy waterfall. It is a great choice on a hot and stuffy evening, sitting in the pleasant outdoor area, the cooling sound in the background. While the restaurant looks like a container from the outside, it is nice once you are inside. Its is contemporarily furnished with a small open cuisine, you feel like a guest at a private home (18 seats).

Host and chef are both gracious and accommodative persons who know their stuff. When dining here, you can put together a meal from a small menu (3/4/5 courses at 78/88/98 SFR/US$). You get great value here! Food is a contemporary take on classics (14 points Gault Millau).

Restaurant Storchen Schoenenwerd (previous posts)

UPDATE: name change in b-smart restaurant Schoenenwerd since March 2023

The restaurant at Hotel Storchen has been a favorite of my family for many years, and this despite some changes here in the kitchen and the ownership respective management. Currently, a husband-wife team runs the place, Katharina Sladek

as host and Daniel Sladek as chef. And they both do a great job! The choice is not large but everything you get is immaculately done.

At Restaurant Storchen you get a modern, refined cuisine which is reasonably priced as a plus (14 Gault Millau points, Michelin listed). There is a small à la carte menu (starters between 8 and 23 SFR/US$, mains from 24 to 43 SFR/US$) and a multi-course menu (3, 4 or 5 courses at 69, 89 or 120 SFR/US$). If you care for the chef’s inventive creations, go for the latter.

While I like dining here very much, I sometimes miss a bit the busy atmosphere of other similar places. As the Storchen is strong in the event business, the (regular) restaurant division does not seem to be their main focus.

Restaurant Bruecke Niedergoesgen (previous post)

This dining-spot in the immediate neighborhood of the above mentioned Restaurant Storchen is also one of my preferred places to dine in style in my home region. Both the host (Markus Gfeller with his wife Sarah) and the chef (Thomas Messerli) are very present. And they are also amiable and competent. Dining here is always a pleasant affair, especially in summer times in the beautiful outdoor area by the river.

At the Bruecke modernized versions of classics are available (15 points Gault Millau, Michelin listed).

And while you can find certain dishes on the menu time and again, they often come with a twist. They constantly work at improving their offer to achieve guest satisfaction. There is either an à la carte option (starters from 16 to 24 SFR/US$, mains from 32 to 49 SFR/US$ and desserts at 14 SFR/US$) or a four-course menu (108 SFR/US$).

Restaurant Hirschen Obererlinsbach (previous post)

This is probably one of the oldest fine dining establishments in the Olten-Aarau region.

I already used to come here with my parents for special occasions when I was a child. At the time, the current host’s father did run the restaurant business, and this with lots of success. And this is not any different nowadays. His son Albi is a jack of all trades in the hotel and restaurant industry, always realizing the one or other new project. What never changes here, is the well-made food based on seasonal and regional produce and influenced by biodiversity (15 points Gault Millau, Michelin listed).

As the Hirschen is also a country inn and active in the event business, Albi von Felten, an experienced chef, does not stand often at the stove anymore. Instead he employs chefs, who come and go on a regular basis. At the moment, Yves Hof, is in charge. Service is friendly and helpful, albeit a bit impersonal. Here it is all about the boss, and he usually makes an appearance, talking shortly to his guests. As to the food offerings here, there is quite a choice. You can opt for the menu (4 or five courses, 109 or 136 SFR/US$), go for the classics (starters from 9.50 to 28 SFR/US$, mains from 29 to 59 SFR/US$) or choose their signature dish. This is chateaubriand (beef tenderloin from the center piece in two courses), either in a smaller portion (75 SFR/US$) or in a larger (89 SFR/US$). As to desserts, they are available from 4 to 22 SFR/US$.

Restaurant L’Auberge Langenthal

The classicistic building of Hotel L’Auberge, in a conservation area, is a true jewel.

And for many years, fine dining lovers come here for its fine cuisine. Since summer 2019, Andri Casavona and his partner Katrin Spillmann took over as chef and host. And they are both friendly and approachable persons who do a good job here. On offer here are modernized classics, Mediterranean influenced (15 Gault Millau points, Michelin listed).

You can dine here à la carte (starters between 16 and 28 SFR/US$, mains from 39 to 56 SFR/US$ and desserts between 5 and 18 SFR/US$). Alternatively, you may opt for the surprise menu (4/5 courses at 105/119 SFR/US$). So far, I have only dined here once, and this experience was a bit mixed. My main – fish of the day – was rather “normal” and a bit on the bland side. Maybe, I should give it a second try but otherwise we are quite spoilt for choice in the area …

Restaurant Baeren Koelliken

The historic country inn was reopened in 2011 after a complete renovation of the premises.

Family Schmid not only owns this property but also many of its member have important positions in it. The chef here is Sven Jeschar, who is also part of the Executive Board. He celebrates traditional fare at this time-honored establishment – its stems from the year 1775. And he does this suitable for the masses, although he shows some aspirations too.

His efforts were even appreciated by Gault Millau, it was awarded 13 points in 2020.

The menu here is broad, you can choose among several ones. They feature classics, saisonal dishes, sustainable fare and many variations of the steak tartare. In terms of pricing, seasonal starters are available from 12.50 to 23.50 SFR/US$, classical mains range from 25.50 to 51.00 SFR/US$ and desserts amount from 3.50 to 15.50 SFR/US$. Service at the Baeren is friendly and down-to-earth, which suits well the clientele. And the restaurant is open every day, from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Restaurant Kreuz in Obergoesgen

UPDATE: out of business end of October 2022

This is yet another country inn in the region of Olten-Aarau offering traditional cuisine with a twist.

But unfortunately, the owners are looking for a buyer for its property as they have reached the retirement age. Nevertheless, I wanted to include this restaurant in my overview as it is still in business and deserves mention here. Since 1995 Herbert and Katharina Balz have steered the business towards a place with an ambitious cuisine (14 points Gault Millau) while still catering for the masses.

It was a balancing act, but they managed it quite well. While the chef, Herbert Balz, has not always been the most affable person – I remember a request because of an early funeral dinner – he has been engaged and committed.

There is lots of choice here at the Kreuz. On the one hand, there is the Kreuz Menu, either with 3, 4 or 5 courses (at 86, 95 or 105 SFR/US$) or you can opt for the à la carte menu. Here you find a variety of salads, cold and warm starters from 10 to 24.50 SFR/US$ (steak tartare 32 SFR/US$). The mains are priced between 24.50 and 52 SFR/US$. For chateaubriand and entrecote in two courses you have to shell out 67 respective 54 SFR/US$, which sounds reasonable.

Restaurant Bad Eptingen Eptingen (previous post)

This is one of the restaurants at the periphery on my home region (towards Basel) yet is frequently visited from people in the Olten area – where I live. It is open every day, starting at 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. expect at the weekend (11 a.m. – 10 p.m.). It is housed in yet another historical building, erected around 1700.

The current owner – Heinz Schwander – entered the family business back in 1979 and he has managed it since then, nowadays with his partner Stefano Spata. And Heinz Schwander is a perfect host, always visible and gracious. As it is the case with the before-mentioned Kreuz, his “regency” at the Bad Eptingen will not last for many more years. A succession plan has been made. But Heinz Schwander will carry on as long as he feels able to do so.

The news that the era Schwander will continue for some time, is good news indeed. The restaurant is very popular, especially with lovers of fine fish dishes.

Yet also the other food options are promising. You get here well-made French inspired cuisine. The menu is expansive. You can either go for the 3- or 4-course menu of the month (75 or 85 SFR/US$) or the multi-course surprise menu (4, 5 or 6 courses at 88, 105 or 120 SFR/US$). Alternatively, you can choose from the à la carte section. Starters are between 7.50 and 32 SFR/US$, mains range from 28.50 to 58 SFR/US$. Chateaubriand in two courses is priced 68 SFR/US$. Desserts cost between 11.50 and 22.50 SFR/US$. Strangely enough, the Bad Eptingen does not have Gault Millau points or is Michelin listed.

Looking back and forward

My mini-series about the fine dining scene in my home region of Olten and Aarau in northwestern Switzerland started with a general overview. This consisted among others a list of all good dining venues here, divided by category and area. Next were three posts with details to all the restaurants in Olten, Aarau and the remaining Olten-Aarau region. This very blogpost went into the latter, the dining spots outside of these two towns.

I plan to do the same for other areas in my home country, specifically for the Zurich and Basel regions as well as for eastern Switzerland. Come back later – it will take some time to do it – to check out what culinary discoveries I made here.

Pin it for later

The post Fine dining scene in the OLTEN-AARAU REGION, northwestern Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Fine dining restaurants in the OLTEN-AARAU REGION, northwestern Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Now it is up to Aarau’s (casual) fine dining scene, after providing an overview of the whole region Olten-Aarau and looking into the one of the neighboring town of Olten. And again I will create descriptions of each and every fine dining restaurant in Aarau that serves truly good food. These will include their food, ambiance, service and prices. I have made following classification: top restaurants, modern (innovative) dining spots and classic eateries with a twist.

As there are no top establishments in the town of Aarau – I mean such ones denoting as “a very good restaurant” (Michelin one star) or “excellent cooking that is worth a detour” (Michelin two stars) – I directly come to modern dining venues.

1. Restaurants in Aarau with modern (innovative) fine dining

I am afraid that there is no dining spot in Aarau that is at the same time modern and innovative – that is at least my opinion. There are three restaurants that can be describes as modern – and this only if you stretch the term somehow.

First to the one where there was a change in the recent past, and this is Restaurant Zollhaus.

Restaurant Zollhuus Aarau (earlier: Restaurant Kettenbruecke, previous post)

As from May 2021, Restaurant Kettenbruecke was renamed oh–so–cleverly into Restaurant Zollhuus. This might make sense insofar as it used to be one (a customs house). However, you have to know that in Olten – a 15-minute drive away – already exists a restaurants with the same name, and this since 1889! Be it as it may, it also changed its concept. From this point of time, it was turned into a meat lover’s place (same chef).

I have not yet tried it out, so I cannot comment on how the food is. While it is still in the Michelin Guide, it is so with the former concept. Though, it did not get any points from the Gault Millau Guide – as it used to do.

The setting of Restaurant Zollhuus is nice,

and so is the decor. It is kept in a contemporary style and has a casual vibe. Service used to be pleasant, however sometimes a bit on the spotty side. Maybe this has changed in the meantime?

When looking at the menu, you get here starters from 8 to 22 SFR/US$, favorite mains from 28 to 42 SFR/US$, meat from 23 to 56 SFR/US$, side dishes 3 to 8 SFR/US$, vegetarian mains from 28 to 44 SFR/US$ and desserts from 3 to 12 SFR/US$.

Restaurant Einstein Aarau (previous posts)

This is a place about which I have written quite a number of posts. The hippest restaurant in town

changed its concept quite many times since it was opened in 2005. The last one (No. 3) took place in October 2018 (see my review). Since then, Franz Meier has been in charge here, and I think he does a good job. He is amiable, competent and hospitable. And the food – newly interpreted Mediterranean classics – is always good, however not necessarily imaginative.

But it does not have to be, does it? The ambiance is still cool, service is kind and prompt.

As to starters, they are available from 14 to 28 SFR/US$, favorites from 36 to 49 SFR/US$, vegetarian favorites from 29 to 33 SFR/US$, meat from the aside grill from 36 to 59 SFR/US$ and desserts from 4 to 16 SFR/US$.

Restaurant Imada Aarau (previous post)

UPDATE: out of business in August 2022

I find this Japanese restaurant difficult to classify because for me as West European it is about modern cuisine. However, from the Japanese point of view, it probably is a traditional one. Be that as it may, they serve authentic Japanese food at this dining venue with its typical minimalist Japanese decor.

You get here sushi, tempura and other Japanese staples

but also hot pot dishes such as sukiyaki and shabu-shabu. Service – it is owned by Japanese lady – is always gracious, informative and solicitous.

As to the price level, it is not cheap – but Japanese food is never – , yet I consider value for money as good. Portions at Imada are not big but sufficient. Overall, I have been visiting this dining spot regularly for many years. And the performance was always to my satisfaction. Expect some wait if the place is full, otherwise the service is paced just right.

They offer either a four course menu for 72 SFR/US$ or an à la carte selection (cold starters from 7 to 23 SFR/US$, hot starters from 8 to 19 SFR/US$, mains from 29 to 36 SFR/US$ (Wagyu beef from Kyushu 105 SFR/US$), side dishes from 4 to 6 SFR/US$, hot pots 57 SFR/US$, donburi pots with rice from 24 to 35 SFR/US$, sushi and sashimi platters from 37 to 54 SFR/US$).

2. Classic restaurants in Aarau offering fine dining with a twist

In this category fall restaurants where you find classic fare on the menu that is not downright ordinary. The dishes have this certain something that make them stand out in some positive way, be it that they are either inspired, imaginative or else.

In Aarau, I am aware of two such eateries, both long established places.

Restaurant Muerset (previous post)

This restaurant has three parts, the classic, elegant Restaurant Muerset, the Brasserie

with traditional bistro cuisine and the Weinstube (wine bar) with barbecue classics. I have dined several times at the former two, over the years. But I have to admit that the last time were a few years ago. So, my level of information is not up-to-date.

In the past, I enjoyed good dinners at Restaurant Muerset – awarded with 12 Gault Millau points. While the place has some panache, it has some outmoded feel. The latter is true for the Brasserie too. The interiors are not of recent date, yet the typical bistro food is well made.

Go here if you are looking for safe bets but do not expect contemporarily styled premises. As to service, there were never any issues in this regard. It was just fine.

Pricewise, you get at Restaurant Muerset starters from 14 to 20 SFR/US$, mains from 24 to 47 SFR/US$ (chateaubriand – beef tenderloin from the center piece in two courses 68 SFR/US$) and desserts from 7 to 16 SFR/US$. There are also two four-course menus, at 85 SFR/US$ or at 72 SFR/US$. As to the Brasserie, starters are available between 13 and 19 SFR/US$, mains between 22 and 43 SFR/US$ and desserts between 8 and 16 SFR/US$. At the Weinstube, you can opt either for a field salad (16 SFR/US$) or a starter platter to share (29 SFR/US$). For mains you spend between 23 and 69 SFR/US$, for desserts between 7 and 16 SFR/US$.

Restaurant zum Schuetzen (previous post)

Here I can look back at two visits, one decades ago (too long ago to be significant) and one on a more recent occasion. And I enjoyed the latter one, not so much the former. Food was good – although rather traditional – and service was pleasant.

As to the Schuetzen offerings, you get here Swiss classics

and the one or the other dish that is a bit off the beaten path. And you do not have to dig deep in your pockets to eat here. The prices are stunningly reasonable. Ambiance is pleasant – with white tablecloths and fine service.

When the dining spot is full, and this is often the case, it may become a bit noisy. I would recommend this place if you are a food lover that likes to dine on a budget.

Starters cost between 8 and 15 SFR/US$, mains between 23 and 44 SFR/US$ and desserts between 6.80 and 12.50 SFR/US$.

Looking back and forward

After an overview of all the restaurants in the Olten-Aarau region in Switzerland’s northwest, I went into details of all the places where you can go for dining in style in the town of Olten. And now I did the same for the town of Aarau too. Next will be a list of all the (casual) fine dining outlets in this area outside of these two towns.

Pin it for later

The post Fine dining scene in the town of AARAU, northwestern Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Fine dining restaurants in the town of AARAU, northwestern Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

I am painfully aware that I have not written about the Olten-Aarau region’s fine dining scene for ages. And this despite the fact that it is where I come from. Hence, I want to catch up on this now. While I would like to be as comprehensive as possible, I will refrain from going into each and every restaurant I have mentioned so far on this blog in this context. Instead I will give an overview of the fine dining scene in the Olten-Aarau region. You will learn what is still good and what is new. And it will include casual and “regular” fine dining as well. The most important thing in this regard is that it is about seriously good food. Before delving into concrete dining spots, a few lines what this does mean. And I will also give some indications on the region in question.

What makes good food

Being a good restaurant involves first and foremost the food quality. The ingredients have to be first-class, fresh and seasonal, preferably also regional. What I am not so sure about is that they also must be socially acceptable. For example, I am not opposed to foie gras – quite the opposite, it is one of my favorite ingredients – , trusting that renowned restaurants source from respectable producers. And I still think that eating meat, fish and any other animal produce is not a bad thing to do. At least if you limit the consumption of this food to a reasonable level.

Okay, the basis has to be perfect, and so has to be its handling. A good chef has to know how to tackle the various ingredients and to combine them in a skillful manner. The final product has to be convincing in terms of flavor and taste, above all. It must allow a complex flavor and taste experience. Textures are important too. There must be some sort of mix between softer and harder, crunchier and chewier parts. And the whole has to be well composed and balanced. Last but not least, it must include unexpected elements.

When it comes to food presentation, the pleasure you get from eating is affected by it. Food must be a feast not only for the palate but also for the eyes. Therefore, appearance is critical, however it must not result in style over substance. The portions should not be miniscule. You must be able to really savor a dish. And this is only possible if the serving size is large enough.

After this digression on (good) food, here some remarks to the region of Olten-Aarau.

Olten-Aarau region

Olten and Aarau are two small towns in northwestern Switzerland and part of the Swiss Mittelland. Both have about 20,000 inhabitants each. While Olten used to be a working town – it is known as place where all the railway workers jobbed and lived – , Aarau always was more on the posh side – it was an industrial town.

Nowadays, both towns are commuter towns too. Olten is located within half an hour of Zurich, Bern, Basel and Lucerne. It is a central rail hub and has rents that are far lower than each of those cities. Aarau is even closer to Zurich but features not that favorable train connections as Olten. Furthermore, it is the capital of the canton of Aargau.

In case you are wondering which place is more beautiful, then I have to admit without hesitation that Aarau is the winner. Its old town is not only much bigger than it is the case in Olten, it is also definitely more picturesque. From what I hear, it even boasts the most beautiful eaves in Switzerland.

In terms of fine dining, Olten has more to offer than Aarau, which might come as a surprise, given its somewhat “underdog status”.

(Casual) fine dining in Olten-Aarau region

This post is the start to a mini-series about the fine dining scene in my home region of Olten and Aarau. As indicated, it will cover all the restaurants that I consider offering truly good food in this part of northwestern Switzerland. It will include not only the traditional fine dining establishments – think of sophisticated white tablecloth dining – , but also casual fine dining spots. This is about restaurants where gourmet food is served in a more relaxed ambiance. You will encounter most probably bare tables and no silverware at such places.

I do not claim my overview to be complete. If you think that I missed one of the really hot spots, please let me know.

The beginning makes my list of all the good dining venues in the Olten-Aarau region, divided by category and region. I will comment it no further at this point of time – with one exception. But do not worry, there will be more details in my next three posts! The first will be about Olten, the second on Aarau and the third about the rest of the Olten-Aarau region. I will provide short descriptions of all the eateries with details to food, ambiance, service and prices.

My list of where to dine in style in Olten-Aarau

UPDATE – Schlosserei Genussfabrik Olten: out of business in Mai 2022 / Zollhaus Olten: change of management in October 2022 / Loohof Oftringen: change of management end of 2022 / Kreuz Obergoesgen: out of business end of October 2022

Only one short remark to the category of top restaurants. Since one of the two leading places in the region closed down (the former two-star Michelin Lampart’s in Haegendorf), there is only one left in the area on this high level. And this is Restaurant Traube in Trimbach, a one-star Michelin establishment (17 points Gault Millau).

Overall & looking forward

In this post, I went into the definition of good food and gave a short overview on my home region of Olten and Aarau. Furthermore, I provided a list of restaurants in this area where you get really good food. Soon on my blog, you will find three more posts about this topic. They will go in some details into the (casual) fine dining scene in Olten, Aarau and the rest of the Olten-Aarau region.

Pin it for later

The post Fine dining scene in Switzerland’s Olten-Aarau region first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Overview fine dining scene in Switzerland’s Olten-Aarau region appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Restaurants in Switzerland were allowed to reopen on May 11 as the Corona crisis continues to subside. After visiting four restaurants in my home region of Olten, it is time to check how they do in terms of creating a safe space for pandemic dining. In a recent post I outlined how the Corona regime in restaurants could look like. And of course, I was wondering how it is to dine in the Olten region in Corona times.

Eating out during the pandemic

It goes without saying that restaurateurs face a challenging situation in these times. First, they have to deal with losses of income as a consequence of their enforced two-month closure. Second, they had more costs due to Corona measures. And third, fewer guests can be hosted at one time because of social distancing. Notwithstanding that, there is no way around doing everything to get diners back through their doors.

Here are my findings as to how four restaurants in the Olten region

in the Swiss Mittelland have arranged with the requirements of “the new dining out”. I looked at following factors: dining area, ordering, table service, wine service/staff allocation, guest registration and shared items on tables. The four dining-spots I reviewed are (in the order of visiting): Bruecke Niedergoesgen, Zollhaus Olten, National Olten und Terminus Olten.

Dining area

Tables in Swiss restaurants must be spaced two meters apart or separated by partitions by government order. The first restaurant I went to with my husband and friends, Restaurant Bruecke in Niedergoesgen, is in the lucky position to be spacious.

The tables had been generously spaced even before the pandemic. Because of this it was not necessary to make many changes. They have almost as many seats available as in pre-Corona times.

Restaurant Zollhaus in Olten is the only dining-spot where I encountered partitions (partly transparent) between tables.

I cannot claim that it contributes to the room esthetics, but it fulfills the purpose. And it allows the restaurant – with some additional space on the second floor – to host as many guests as usual. This is different at Restaurant National

and Restaurant Terminus

where only every second table is used. While the former introduced fixed-timing dining (either form 6pm to 8pm or later), the latter did not.

Ordering

A good way to make people feel comfortable when it comes to hygiene is the removal of multi-use menus. Two of the restaurants I visited do clearly so, Restaurant Bruecke and Restaurant National. Here you get one disposable paper menu for the table. While you receive two sheets of paper at Restaurant National, one for food and the other for beverages, this is a bit different at Restaurant Bruecke. Here they only do this for the food, in terms of wine you have a choice. You can use the traditional wine list (multi-use) or you can scan a QR code for this purpose. This is really an inventive approach!

As to the other two restaurants (Zollhaus and Terminus)

I could not determine for sure whether the food menus, handed over in paper form to all the diners, are used more than once. The wine list at Restaurant Terminus can be found on the back side of the food menu. Restaurant Zollhaus still let their guests use the “pre-Corona” wine list (plastic folder).

Table service

Nowadays, many diners welcome a service that does not get too close, either when serving or clearing the plates. This can be done by servers wearing face masks or using side tables as some sort of in-between space. Furthermore, it is appropriate in Corona times to minimize staff-guest interaction.

While too much closeness usually is not that problematic if there are only two guests at a table, this is different at tables seating four or more diners. In the former case, you can serve and clear plates from the front. In the latter, this is often neither feasible nor does it comply with the “art of serving” (from the guest’s right side).

And it proved to be a problem once I was seated together with my husband and friends in one of the dining-spots. Staff could not help getting too close when serving and clearing plates. It was different in another place, were our party of four had an isolated table where service from the front was possible. By the way, in none of the four restaurants we visited in these first weeks after the Corona closure the servers wore face masks.

As to reducing unnecessary social contact, I positively noted that Restaurant Bruecke provided additional cutlery on a plate to help yourself. What a thoughtful touch!

Wine service/staff allocation

Another sensible point in this context is pouring wine and other beverages. In Restaurant Bruecke we could choose whether we wanted to this ourselves, which was well received with our party. In Restaurant National, the owner put the bottles on the table and let us know that we could help ourselves to more wine and water. However, in Restaurant Zollhaus, there was no choice. The wine was in a cooler beyond our reach. In Restaurant Terminus, mineral water was on the table for us to pour it ourselves. As to the wine, staff was in charge of serving us although the bottle was close to us.

Yet another critical issue is the allocation of staff. The preferred way would be that only one employee serves the table throughout a guest’s visit to minimize unnecessary staff-diner interaction. While this was more or less the case at Restaurant Bruecke, we got in touch with two persons in all the other dining-spots.

Guest registration

While it is not mandatory in Switzerland to register names of restaurant guests with parties under five, you can do so if you wish. As my husband and I are regulars at all the places visited, we did not volunteer to do so.

Nonetheless, we were pleasantly surprised that the owner at Restaurant National asked us to write down our names and phone numbers using a pen disinfected before our eyes. What an exemplary behavior! In Restaurant Terminus there were a list and a pen on the table to give you the chance to inscribe, well done too!

Shared items on the tables (salt & pepper shakers etc.)

In none of the four dining-spots I visited in these Corona times there were items on the tables that are shared with other guests such as bread baskets, salt and pepper shakers or oil and vinegar bottles. Good job! In terms of bread, I noticed plates with only a few pieces of bread (Bruecke & National) or bread deliberately chosen for every starter on the individual plate at Restaurant Terminus (brioche for the peach burrata starter and dark bread for the octopus starter). At Restaurant Zollhaus, staff still serves small bread rolls with a serving tong from a bread basket.

Conclusion and outlook

Times in the gastronomy have changed, that is for sure. Winds are blowing harder against the restaurateurs, who were not in a very comfortable position even before the Corona crises – in view of narrow margins and an oversupply of restaurants. But establishments which want to remain competitive have to take measures as a consequence of Corona and not only those required by law. Innovative restaurants must stand out from the crowd in terms of creating a safe space for pandemic dining. It does not have to be large-scale actions, but small things can be sufficient. Think about possible needs of concerned diners and offer corresponding solutions to them.

As to the performance of the four visited restaurants in my home region of Olten

I can conclude that they generally do well as to safe dining in Corona times. While there was no ideal case, it became clear that all of them did their home work. Yet there is room for improvement, especially when it comes to avoidance of unnecessary social contacts. In this context I recommend the following. Ask your guests whether they want to serve themselves from beverages. Question your service attitude, better stay safe than serve by the book (above the guest’s right shoulder). Try to allocate only one server per table and evening. And the most important advice as to multi-use items, get rid of those folders for food and beverage menus!

Date of visits: May/June 2020

The post How is it to dine in the Olten region, Switzerland, in Corona times? first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post How is it to dine in the Olten region, Switzerland, in Corona times? appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Restaurants in Switzerland are allowed to reopen their businesses as from May 11. This after the country was able to curb the spread of the Coronavirus for the moment (see also my post about pandemic dining). That is the good news, the bad is that they will not be able to work at their full capacity in these Corona times. So what to do? Many keep their take out service or newly enter this market to compensate for expected losses of income. Here is an overview of restaurants offering high-quality Corona take away food for the time being in the Olten and Aarau region in the Swiss Mittelland.

Six of my favorite dining-spots in the area resume their (original) businesses and at the same time continue their food to go. Another four open up their restaurants and at the same time newly join the competition.

6 restaurants that keep Corona take away food upon reopening

First to the places that I have already mentioned in my first post about restaurants with high quality Corona take away food in my home region. All of them will reopen their places and simultaneously continue their take out service, at least for a certain time.

1. Restaurant Bruecke in Niedergoesgen

This is one of my preferred places for tasty and well-prepared Corona food to go. While I was fond of every take out meal my family ordered here, one was an absolute highlight! And this was the Mother’s Day special.

It will remain in my memory for a long time to come! The opening date for the regular restaurant service here is on May 12, the take away will be maintained at least until May 15.

2. Hotel Restaurant Storchen in Schoenenwerd

I am still raving about their fabulous Easter take away!

After this onetime take out special, they started offering appetizer sampler plates to go. They will keep this service for the time being, when they reopen as from May 11.

3. Restaurant Salmen in Olten

And finally to the last restaurant that I reviewed in some detail in my first post about high quality Corona take away in the region, Restaurant Salmen in Olten.  They started offering food to go from day one, well-appreciated by me! And they will do this also in the time to come, along with opening the doors again on May 11.

4. Restaurant Aarhof in Olten

This is another dining-spot that I mentioned in this very post. In the meantime, I checked it out and judged it as good. Both the potato gnocchi with Mediterranen vegetables and feta cheese as well as the asparagus with roast potatoes were great choices!

And when they reopen their restaurant on May 11, they maintain the take out for the foreseeable future.

5. Restaurant Eintracht in Kestenholz

Yet one more restaurant that I mentioned in this blogpost, Restaurant Eintracht Kestenholz. While I live too far away to try out their food to go, I hear that they are still offering it. The reopening of the restaurant is scheduled for May 19.

6. Restaurant Stadtbad in Olten

And there also is a new player to this high quality Corona take out business, Restaurant Stadtbad Olten. We have tried this service twice so far, and we liked what we got very much! Both the teriyaki tuna with seasonal vegetables and wasabi emulsion as well as the veal escalope accompanied by Mediterranean potato salat were incredibly good!

And as from May 11 the delicacies will be available on the spot.

Not all of my local dining favorites have joined the take away business so far. Some of them decided to offer it only when they resume their (original) business. It is great to hear that they will enter the game from now on.

4 restaurants that newly offer take away along with reopening

1. Restaurant Einstein in Aarau

This was the first of my favorite dining-spots in my home region to announce their participation in the competition, and this at the same time when opening the door again. Originally, the reopening was planned for May 12. In the meantime, they have postponed this step to a later date (not yet known). As to the take out option, you can order all the items from the menu, with a discount of 10%.

2. Restaurant Terminus in Olten

The next who published the news of offering take out food in the time to come, was Restaurant Terminus in Olten. Along with the restaurant reopening on May 11, some menu items are available to go.

3. Restaurant Zollhaus in Olten

Later on, Restaurant Zollhaus in Olten informed of their newly launched take away service as well, coming together with their going back to business as (almost) usual on May 11.

4. Restaurant Schlosserei in Olten

And also Restaurant Schlosserei in Olten takes this step. A take away offer complements a table service as from May 11.

The importance of Corona take away food for restaurants

All the restaurants I mentioned in this overview are normally not in the take out market. But these times of Corona crisis are different. Restaurateurs are not allowed to run their businesses as usual due to social distancing and hygiene practices. So they are not able to work at 100% capacity. Therefore, revenue diversification is an appropriate way to face this challenging situation. And high quality Corona take out food is well received by customers who are not ready to go to restaurants already!

The post Corona take away food from restaurants in the Olten region, Switzerland, v.2.0 first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Corona take away food from restaurants in the Olten region, Switzerland, v.2.0 appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Dining at restaurants is “out” for now, so foodies who do not want to cook for themselves are at a loss, at least until recently. While the existing opportunities for getting take away food usually do not appeal to gourmets, this has changed in the last few weeks of the Coronavirus lockdown. And this with the appearance of high quality Corona take away food offers from many of my favorite restaurants in the town of Olten and surroundings.

In the following, I want to bring you three restaurants closer that have this (temporary) kind of service in my home region of Olten and surroundings in the Swiss Mittelland. First to my number one choice in this regard, Restaurant Bruecke in Niedergoesgen.

1. Restaurant Bruecke in Niedergoesgen

This restaurant, awarded 15 points (out of 20) in the Gault Millau gourmet guide, is one of my favorites for eating out in style. It is worth a visit both in wintertime in the generous indoor setting or in the splendid waterfront outdoor area.

Classics and inventive dishes are on offer here, and both are equally convincing. And the service under the owner of Markus Gfeller is competent and amiable. For a closer look, here my review.

As there was a food truck available – usually located in front of a shopping center offering grilled sausages – , it was converted in a take away outlet.

The chef, Thomas Messerli, asked his apprentices to develop a take away concept. Ant they worked out the following: house made pasta accompanied by different sauces. But this was just a start …

Within no time, the Bruecke team expanded the selection: asparagus ravioli with bear garlic, sauted pioppini mushrooms, dried tomatoes and parmesan cheese;

coq auf vin with vegetables and mashed potatoes,

chorizo and pollo

and many more. Even desserts are available, once my family opted for a mini rhubarb panna cotta.

Everything we had was well-made and tasted great!

For Easter, there was a special offer, a variety of classics on the one hand, a four-course menu on the other hand. My husband, my son and I went for a traditional dish, Angus beef meat loaf with stewed vegetables and mashed potatoes

complete with asparagus tomato chickpeas salad. It was such a treat! As to the multi-course menu, I heard that it was already sold out before Easter even started.

2. Restaurant Storchen La Cuisine in Schoenenwerd

Restaurant Storchen La Cuisine is another favorite of mine in my home region when it comes to refined cuisine in a pleasant ambiance.

While it was always a good spot for fine dining, it won my heart completely with the appointment of chef Daniel Sladek, see here my review. And he knows his business. Under his aegis, Storchen La Cuisine got 14 Gault Millau points in his first year. Also the immaculate and kind service – helmed by his wife Katharina Sladek – is worth mentioning.

As far as the Corona take away food is concerned, “The Storchen” did not get involved until Easter. Then they launched a special gourmet offer. It included a choice of six starters, three mains and two desserts. But that was not all … You could even order wine, white table linen, silver cutlery and table decoration!

I was awestruck when I caught sight of the delivery!

The box not only contained the food, one part vacuum-packed, the other in form of nicely arranged plates (tuna carpaccio).

No, the meat course, the classic “Storchen pot”, Zurich-style veal stripes, even came along with a silver serving platter!

And not to forget the dessert, a chocolate mousse in a glass. In addition, there was also an Easter basket with brownies, a goody from the restaurant! With all this, my family had a true dinner in style, and it was a culinary pleasure from A to Z, too!

3. Restaurant Salmen in Olten

Last but not least, a recommended restaurant engaged in the “Corona take away business” in my home town of Olten. “The Salmen”, awarded 13 Gault Millau points, is housed in a beautiful old tavern.

It is a safe value in Olten’s culinary scene. Expect solid work here but no (unnecessary) show or artwork on the plates! Staff is friendly and knowledgeable. My review can be found here.

As to the take away offer, there are three menus changing twice weekly that come with a seasonal salad. This is complemented by a menu with Salmen classics. Here you can choose among two starters and four to six mains. At one occasion, my son and I ordered from the former option. We liked what we got, meat loaf with red wine sauce, spaetzle and vegetables

as well as a veggie lasagna with tomato sauce.

Other restaurants in the area with Corona take away

There are other local dining-spots that were converted into temporary take away outlets. Out of all these, I can recommend two more that I have not tried out (yet) but are known for quality food: Restaurant Aarhof (review) in Olten

and Restaurant Eintracht in Kestenholz, west of Olten.

Conclusion and outlook

Who would have thought that something good results of something so bad as the Corona crisis! Favorite restaurants of mine in my home region of Olten and surroundings prove that by offering high quality Corona take away food! Of course, the revenues coming from this (temporary) service cannot compensate the ones from the usual business operation. Still, the appearance of such commercial models is a glimmer of hope, although it might only be a stopgap. Yet it allows the restaurants to keep in touch with their clientele. And you never know what might come out of it when life returns to normal!

The post Corona take away food from restaurants in the Olten region, Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Corona take away food from restaurants in the Olten region, Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Neuer Chefkoch – la cuisine by Daniel Sladek

6-Gang-Degustationsmenü im la cuisine

wechselten wir für das Essen ins Lokalinnere, wo wir uns im geschmackvoll eingerichteten la cuisine

nahe des historischen Küchenpasses

niederliessen. Dieser bietet zusammen mit einer Kupferpfannen-Batterie aus der Belle Epoqe eine stimmige Kulisse für einen kulinarischen Hochgenuss. Er dient jedoch nicht nur zur Dekoration, sondern wird auch für das «Finish» von gewissen Storchen-Klassikern genutzt. Uns stand jedoch an diesem Abend der Sinn nach dem ersten Degustationsmenu von Daniel Sladek.

Bevor uns der erste Gang servierte wurde, kamen wir in den Genuss eines Amuse-Bouches, einer Variation von Mai-Scholle und Erbsen.

Was für ein vielversprechender Einstieg in diesen lukullischen Abend! Das Gericht erfreute nicht nur das Auge, sondern auch den Magen und war von der Grösse und der Komplexität her mehr ein Bonus-Gang denn ein Appetithäppchen.

Ein kreatives Gourmet-Feuerwerk war dann der Beginn des eigentlichen Menüs, ein Biscuit-Gebäck gefüllt mit Entenleber und Aprikose, abgerundet mit Salz-Schokolade und Granatapfel.

Was auf den ersten Blick als etwas wild anmutete, entpuppte sich dann als äusserst wohlschmeckende und harmonische Kreation. Chapeau dem Wagemut des jungen Kochs gepaart mit einem Sinn für das, was zusammen geht (und was nicht).

Auch die Suppe war ein Hit und gleichzeitig auch ein Kunstwerk, ein Arrangement von Buffalo-Burrata, Gurke, schwarzem Knoblauch und Serrano-Chip, das am Tisch mit einer leichten, würzig-schmackhaften Tomatenessenz aufgegossen wurde.

Gleichermassen furios ging es weiter mit dem Fisch, eine Seezungen-Kräuter-Roulade auf gerösteter Safran-Quinoa und abgerundet mit Artischocken.

Eine Augenweide war’s, gleichzeitig aber auch eine Gaumenfreude.

Beim Hauptgang erwies sich das Rindsfilet mit Portwein-Jus als geschmacklich überzeugend, aber der wahre Star für mich war das Kartoffelpüree mit Morcheln. Das Ganze kam daher mit Spargeln und lecker gefüllten Morcheln.

Vom Portwein-Jus und dem Kartoffelpüree wurde übrigens am Tisch noch nachgereicht, wovon unsere Vierergruppe fleissig Gebrauch machte.

Der Käse-Gang bestand aus kräftigem Jersey Blue im Verbund mit Feigen und schwarzen Baumnüssen,

was perfekt aufeinander abgestimmt war.

Das Dessert schliesslich vermochte auch zu überzeugen, Vanille-Panna Cotta mit Rhabarber-Kompott und Erdbeeren, garniert mit Minze, Biscuit-Bröseln und Crackern.

Ein spezieller Touch war, dass letztere mit Sepia eingefärbt waren. Was für ein origineller Einfall!

Ein äusserst gelungener Einstand, den Daniel Sladek da an den Tag legte, der Lust macht auf mehr. Zweifellos hat dieser junge Koch viel Potential, und ich bin gespannt, womit er uns in Zukunft noch überraschen wird. Ich bin überzeugt davon, dass er noch allerlei im Köcher hat.

Übriges Essensangebot/Lokalitäten

oder Seezunge bzw. Steinbutt vom Grill geniessen. In Sachen Süsses gibt es eine Auswahl an traditionellen Desserts und als besonderes Highlight Crêpes Suzette, am Tisch zubereitet.

Möchte man etwas Kleineres oder in weniger formellem Rahmen essen, dann ist die Bistro-Lounge der Ort der Wahl. Hier steht ein breites Angebot an Speisen auf der Karte. Von Flammkuchen über Tatar, Rauchlachs, Salate, Suppen, Fische, vegetarische Optionen bis zu diversen Fleischgerichten (auch vom Grill) ist hier alles zu haben.

Bei schönem Wetter kann man – wie wir dieses Mal – den Apéro draussen einnehmen oder auch dort verweilen für das gesamte Essen, sei es im Bereich des la cuisine, wo ein paar wenige Tische zur Verfügung stehen, oder im denjenigen des Bistros mit einem grossen Platzangebot.

Service

steht dem nicht nach. Auch sie ist die Herzlichkeit in Person und vermag mit ihrer Dienstleistungsorientierung und ihrem Sachverstand zu begeistern. Ein nettes Detail am Rande, Katharina Sladek ist die Ehefrau des Chefkochs, Daniel Sladek! Dieser machte uns bei unserem ersten Besuch unter seiner Ägide auch noch seine Aufwartung. Der überlegt auftretende junge Mann erschien nach dem Essen, wechselte ein paar Sätze mit uns und erkundigte sich auch danach, ob das Mahl mengenmässig ausreichend war, was wir bejahen konnten. Ich fand es toll, dass er dieses Thema aufgriff, denn es kommt ja leider immer wieder vor, dass man gewisse Fine Dining-Etablissements nach einem mehrgängigen Menü noch hungrig verlassen muss!

Preise

Insgesamt

Wenn wir kurzfristig oder an einem Sonntagabend ein gutes Mahl möchten, dann ist die Bistro-Lounge eine bevorzugte Wahl in der Region. Ab und zu zieht es uns jedoch auch ins la cuisine, wo Gourmetküche – aktuell mit 14 Gault Millau-Punkten bewertet – auf der Karte steht. Unser letzter Besuch ging dahin, weil wir die Küche des neuen Chefkochs, Daniel Sladek ausprobieren wollten. Und die ist absolut empfehlenswert! Wir gingen aufs Ganze und haben uns durch alle sechs Gänge gegessen, und wir waren begeistert! Nicht nur wurden beste Zutaten einwandfrei zubereitet und wunderschön angerichtet, sondern der junge Koch ist ausserordentlich fantasievoll und innovativ. Seine Kreationen sind jedoch nie zu «abgehoben», er hat vielmehr ein Flair dafür, mit Hilfe von Details einem «normalen» Gericht etwas Besonderes zu verleihen.

Date of last visit: Juni 2019

The post Restaurant Storchen, Aarau-Schoenenwerd/Switzerland with new chef first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Restaurant Storchen, Aarau-Schoenenwerd, Switzerland with new chef appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

A new culinary star is born in the town next to Olten:

Location

Hotel Kettenbruecke is favorably located at the edge of Aarau’s beautiful historic old town. The property is steeped in history. It was built in 1830 as a customs house and was later converted in a hotel. Hotel Kettenbruecke had been one of Aarau’s most prominent gastronomic institutions before it was used as a location for a nightclub. A few years ago, it was decided to remodel it as a hotel again. After a long construction time it was reopened in spring 2016 together with the affiliated restaurant of the same name.

Ambiance

The restaurant is divided into three parts, a bar, a more casual restaurant with bare tables covered with white table runners and a fine dining part with white table cloths. The later – where my husband and I were seated on our visit – is housed in some kind of addition. It looks like an ancient form of a winter garden, without the plants but with windows on three sides. The fine dining restaurant is a bit separated from the other one which makes it a pleasant and quiet room. And because of the many windows you can sit here and observe what is going on outside, which is a nice thing to do.

All three parts of the restaurant are tastefully decorated in a contemporary style. Everything is kept in dark brown and creamy beige colors. While the casual restaurant has a light parquet flooring, the fine dining space has a patterned tile floor.

Food concept/Pricing

Sampled food

While my husband decided to order Scottish salmon accompanied by lukewarm cauliflower salad and a spicy coriander dressing

as a starter, I chose the lukewarm scallop carpaccio paired with celery and black truffle.

Both dishes were immaculately prepared, worked well and tasted nice.

As a main, he opted for a game dish, venison stew with a delicious elder sour cream sauce, hazelnut pizokels (some kind of spaetzle) and apple red cabbage.

I went for the Swiss Prim beef entrecote on a chorizo jus that came with exquisite pretzel knoedels (dumplings) and flower sprouts.

Both of us were delighted at the quality and the originality of the creations.

As the portions were generous enough yet not too big (I was asked after the main whether I had enough, what I confirmed), my husband and I had room left for desserts. He had the chestnut tiramisu with mandarin sorbet,

I chose the white brownie on caramelized milk cream paired with sour cherry sorbet.

The sorbets were sublime – I am usually no big fan of them –, and the rest was also quite convincing although not terribly exciting. Here is still room for improvement.

Service

Date of visit: December 2018

The post Review of Restaurant Kettenbruecke in Aarau, Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.