The Chile trip my husband and I did – here is the itinerary – took us also to its capital of Santiago. Of course it did, you cannot fly directly from the Atacama Desert to Patagonia, for example. So, we happened to stay here three times, twice in the city center, once at the airport. Never mind, although it was not love at first sight, we grew to like this city. It is laid out like a chessboard in a Spanish colonial style. However, only a few remains of the historical building structure remain. Find here a suggestion for a Santiago city tour in key words (under activities on My Google Map). When it comes to where to stay and dine in style in Santiago de Chile, I can advise on one of the best high-end hotels plus three great fine-dining restaurants, featured on the 50 Best Discovery list by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

I start with laying out where to opt for a hotel in Santiago de Chile best for exploring and dining options.

Where to stay in style in Santiago de Chile 

When heading to Santiago de Chile you have to decide whether you want to stay in the old town or in the new town. These two parts are separated by the Almeda Bernardo O’Higgins Avenue. It is named after the Chilean freedom fighter, who liberated the country from the Spanish. This avenue runs through almost the entire city from southwest to northeast. North from it is the old town, south from it the new town.

If you want to be near the main sights, I suggest that you opt for staying in the city’s old part, which is at the same time Santiago Downtown.

Lastarria neighborhood in Santiago’s old town

The best place to stay in Santiago’s old town is probably Barrio Lastarria. This rejuvenated historic neighborhood with cobblestone alleys and stately Belle Époque buildings has fast become one of the hippest areas in town. This is due to its wealth of museums, art centers, trendy shops and cool cafés. And it is also favorably located as to the historic Barrio Centro (Plaza de Armas) and the bohemian neighborhood of Bellavista.

The best luxury hotel in the vibrant Lastarria neighborhood is The Singular Santiago, belonging to the prestigious hotel collection of the Leading Hotels of the World. Before coming to how it is lodging here, some information on a possible alternative of staying in style in Santiago de Chile.

Trendy neighborhoods in Santiago’s new town

While Lastarria is the ideal base for sightseeing, most upscale restaurants are further away from downtown. You find them predominantly in the Las Condes District and also in the Vitacura one. Both are in the city’s northwest, maybe 15 to 30 minutes by car from the historic Barrio Centro.

This is also the place where most high-end hotels are. Think in this context of The Ritz-Carlton, W Santiago or Mandarin Oriental. Apart from upscale lodging and a thriving restaurant scene, you encounter here also some nightlife. A few theaters are located in “Sanhattan”, as this area is also called.

After going into our stay at one of the best luxury hotels in Santiago, the Lastarria hotel The Singular Santiago, I will let you know more about three great fine-dining restaurants in Santiago’s Las Condes and Vitacura Districts.

Staying in style at The Singular Hotel Santiago

I have mentioned The Singular Hotel already in another post about our Chile trip. And this was on the occasion of our Patagonian stay. Before opening their Santiago property in 2014, the owners have already established The Singular Patagonia in the Puerto Natales area.

Location

I already went into The Singular’s location above, Barrio Lastarria. This neighborhood, which is at The Singular’s doorstep, came back to life with the opening of the nearby Gabriela Mistral Cultural Center. And it did so after being the place to be in the first half of the 20th century. At this time, everything that had rank and name built here, adopting Europe’s architectural influences. Sadly, Lastarria became neglected later on when many families moved to more modern suburbs. Yet fortunately, the neighborhood’s infrastructure stayed whole, ready to be relived in the current time!

Ambiance/Staff

Although The Singular Santiago is a new hotel, it stands out from other such ones in town. It is for sure not comparable to the interchangeable chain accommodations in Santiago’s new town. Instead it is full of character, linked to the history and culture of Chile. It is designed in a neo-classical architectural style, as a tribute to its surroundings. With its dark front and two brickwork volumes it perfectly blends into the area.

As to The Singular’s interiors, it combines modernity with gone-by times. When entering the premises, you encounter a lobby/bar area that reminds you of a gentleman’s club from the Belle Époque. Dark brown armchairs, bronze salon tables and olive green sofas go hand in hand.

And the clubby ambiance extends to the ground-floor restaurant clad in checkerboard marble floors and dark-wood paneling.

The staff in the reception area, stylishly in dark suits, completes the scenario. And also their attitude fits. Service was excellent from start to finish on our stays, nothing was too much trouble. Of all the employees we encountered, the concierge, an Englishman, stood out as the most welcoming and engaging person. Yet all the others were up to the level too. And it was so nice to be remembered when returning two weeks after the first stay!

Rooms

You can make your choice out of 62 rooms in eight categories with rates starting at about 200 US$ in the low season (The Lastarria Room 25 sqm).

My husband and I went for The Singular Twin category. On our two stays, we had both times a room with the same layout however on different floors. While I found the accommodation good enough, it was not the thing I liked most at this hotel. It was spacious (36 sqm), yet a bit on the dark side. This because the room was long and narrow with only one window. Plus, it was located at the middle wing of the building, a bit set back.

Our The Singular Twin room was kept in warm, dark colors as the rest of the hotel. It came with a large table plus chairs and two sofa chairs with a small salon table. The luxurious bathroom, of which I was fond, was sizable and clad in marble. It was split into three areas with a large sink and tub in one, then a shower and a toilet each separated by individual glass doors.

Restaurants

For a hotel of this size there is quite a number of restaurants, four in total. The flagship spot is The Singular Restaurant with a French inspired locally sourced cuisine. Then there are two bars, on the one hand the Rooftop Bar

with a great view of the San Cristobal hill,

on the other hand Bar Merced on the ground floor. Finally, you find here also Café 294, a place for business or social meetings.

While my husband and I did not have dinner at The Singular Restaurant, we had breakfast here four times, which was good. We also had drinks at both bars on several occasions and enjoyed it. Among other things, we were served the best pisco sour of our whole Chile trip at the Rooftop Bar, which says a lot.

Other facilities

The Singular Santiago’s amenities include a spa with hydrotherapy room, sauna and steam bath plus a gym. And there is also a small rooftop pool.

Overall The Singular Santiago

We had two great stays here at this fabulous Lastarria property, with all the major sights close by. While The Singular Santiago is a new hotel, it pays tribute to the old-school glamour of this historic neighborhood, which was rejuvenated not long ago. The hotel is kept in a neo-classical architectural style to blend into its surroundings. Yet it is not afraid to be modern too. Rooms are affordable yet luxurious – especially the bathrooms – , and the two bars are a huge asset. The staff knows their job well, and they deliver an excellent service to their guests. My husband and I would return here in a heartbeat!

After these details to one of the best luxury hotels in Santiago, now the same as to the restaurant scene.

Dining in style in Santiago de Chile

I mentioned it above, the best restaurants in Santiago de Chile are not in the old town respectively in downtown, but in the new town. And you can find them in the Las Condes and Vitacura Districts in particular. This means that you cannot walk to them if you happen to stay in the old town. You even have to take into account a 30-minute drive to reach them as the traffic might be bad. While this is not exactly favorable, it is doable.

There is no Michelin Guide for Santiago de Chile to consult as to best gourmet spots in town. Alternatively, I relied on the 50 Best Discovery list by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. As we did not want to eat 10 or more courses – we dined out every day of our 20-night vacation – , we did not consider for instance the famous Boragó. Instead we rather opted for establishments with a “three- to four-course approach.” By chance, we happened to eat at two restaurants with Nikkei cuisine (combination of Japanese and Peruvian elements). I start with those before coming to one specializing in fish and seafood.

1. Restaurant Karai by Mitsuharu Santiago de Chile

Some background & setting

Restaurant Karai by Mitsuharu is chef Mitsuharu “Micha” Tsumara’s outpost in town, opened in 2017. He is considered Latin America’s best chef according to The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and this at Restaurant Maido in Lima. The Santiago branch is located at the fancy W Santiago Hotel in the Las Condes District. It is helmed by chef Gerson Céspedes.

If you wonder about the name of Karai, it has a double meaning. It means “together” in the Quetchua language and “spicy” in Japanese. Not only the W Santiago Hotel’s appearance is striking, but this is also true for Restaurant Karai by Mitsuharu. Zen decor awaits you here with lots of wood and natural light. And we were exceptionally warmly welcomed.

Food, overall & price

As to food offerings, there is an extensive menu of Sashimi, Tiraditos, Ceviche, Nigiris, Pa’picar-Otsumami, Los Fuertes and Desserts. Instead of going for the “experience” – the chef sends dishes of the day – , my husband and I chose ourselves (I had prepared for it beforehand).

We shared a Tiradito (de Orilla), catch of the day with yellow chili sauce, ponzu, cilantro, scallops tartar and shari cracker.

And the same is true for the classic Gyoza, stuffed with pork and shrimp with spicy ponzu sauce. Then we had individual mains, Kansai Yakimeshi from the Los Fuertes section for me, Japanese styled fried rice with seafood, salmon, shrimp omelette, ankake sauce and chilli oil. My husband had a dish from the Pa’picar-Otsumami part, Yakiniku de Cordero, a rack of lamb with yakiniku sauce, chimichurri nikkei, chickpea cream and olluco pickle. For dessert we shared Ice Tea and Yuzu, a pistachio and matcha tea biscuit with papaya sorbet and yuzu-chocolate cream.

And what can I say – I am no expert in Nikkei cuisine – , yet dining at Karai by Mitsuharu opened up new worlds of taste for us. What we got was creative, expertly done and nicely arranged. And everything was extremely delicious! We enjoyed the dinner very much. Also the serving sizes seemed adequate to us. Service was professional and did not interfere when it turned out that we already had made our choice on ordering. Price wise, the check (about 150 US$ with a bottle of wine) was reasonable, no complaints.

2. Restaurant Osaka Cocina Nikkei Santiago de Chile

Some background & setting

Restaurant Osaka Cocina Nikkei in Santiago de Chile is not a standalone restaurant, but part of a Lima based collection. The Osaka brand currently operates nine restaurants in seven South American cities and an outpost in Miami. And it has existed for over 20 years. As to its Santiago branch, it used to be at the W Santiago Hotel before it moved to its current location in Vitacura in 2017. The chef here is Ciro Watanabe.

The restaurant is situated in an affluent neighborhood – we almost felt like we were in a North American city. And there are other similar – upscale – dining spots nearby. Osaka Santiago encompasses two floors. There is a dining room plus an outdoor area on the ground floor. In the basement you find the sushi counter plus another dining room. The décor is feng shui-like with lots of wood. As to the staff, they needed some time to get going. Yet with time, the service became better.

Food, overall & price

The menu here is divided in two parts. On the one hand, there is the Nikkei Bar with Sashimi, classic Nigiris, Ceviches, Tiraditos, OSK Style Nigiris and Makimono. On the other hand, you find here also Peruvian Izakaya with Zensai and Tokusen dishes.

My husband and I shared first Tiradito Perú (white fish, Nikkei uchucuta, pickled onions, sweet potato)

and an Izakaya from the Zensai section. It was Chirashi Causa (yellow potato, salmon tataki, crab salad, ikura, acevichada sauce). Then we did the same for two items from the Izakaya Tokusen part. These were Shiromi Brasa (roasted white fish, almond chimichurri and Peruvian peppers) and Kuroi Ramen (charred seafood, ramen noodles, curry squid ink cream, cherry tomato, spicy mayo). We ended the meal with sharing an Amai Toast, which was a caramelized brioche with yuzu curd, cheese ice cream and miso butterscotch.

Again, we had the same feelings as at Restaurant Karai by Mitsuharu. Each dish provided plenty excitement to our tastebuds. Everything was skillfully crafted, refined and attractively served. Also the size of portions was good. Service became better the longer we were here. The ambiance was pleasant, although for me personally it was a bit too much on the dark side (we were seated near the window). As to the prices, we found them okay for what you get. Just as with its mentioned competitor, we paid around 150 US$ for the two of us (with a bottle of wine).

3. Restaurant Olam Santiago de Chile

Some background & setting

Olam ranks 68th on the extended Latin America’s 50 Restaurants 2023 list. It is the only one of the three mentioned Santiago restaurants that was voted into it. Sergio Barroso is at the helm at this dining spot on the second floor of the 45 By Director Hotel in the Las Condes District. The property has been open since 2019. Before, he was at Restaurant 040 in the nearby Providencia District. Originally from Madrid, Barroso worked with Ferran Adrìa at El Bulli and Denis Martin in Vevey/Switzerland.

The restaurant’s design is rather special, some may say a bit peculiar. The dining room is kept in high gloss white and poison green. Huge white columns are combined with green chairs featuring a net-like pattern. Another eye catcher are the curvaceous chandeliers. The whole thing appears quite futuristic. The staff was relaxed and composed throughout the evening.

Food, overall & price

The chef has an innovative take on fish and seafood. And the dishes are ideal for sharing, what my husband and I did. We ordered 5 savory and 2 sweet dishes.

The savory ones were the following: Tina and Miso (bonito tartare & rice with ginger, ponzu oil, miso mayonnaise & wasabi),

grilled wild green asparagus (in two cooking methods, tempura & grilled with chili-zumac mayonnaise foam), smoked wagyu tartare (in oak wood with lacquered Chinese bread, red curry teriyaki & sichimi togarashi), blue crab Txangurro with cognac & yuzu hollandaise (flamed crab stew in cognac, typical of the Basque Country, gratin with hollandaise) and ravioli of smoked trout from Patagonia (with white vermouth & mascarpone cream). The sweet ones consisted of: white chocolate, peanut praline and rose (creamy white chocolate, savarin sponge cake with peanut praline & pear granita) and roasted manchego cheese (manchego cake filled with blackberry jam & cassis liqueur cream).

And the food was superb! I very much liked the chef’s eclectic creations influenced by Asian, Western & South American cuisines. Each dish was well composed, with unexpected elements in each that made it a truly memorable dining experience. As to the ambiance, on arrival I found it a bit cold, but later on when the lamps were lit it became more pleasant. When it comes to pricing, I found the check (about 150 US$ for the two of us with a bottle of wine) reasonable enough. Said that, we did not choose one of the more expensive items on the menu, for instance the langoustines.

My mini-series about a Chile & Buenos Aires trip

I mentioned our Chile itinerary at the beginning, of course we visited not only Santiago but other places in Chile (plus Buenos Aires) too. If you should be interested, we went to Patagonia and the Atacama Desert where I go into the luxury hotels we stayed (and their onsite restaurants). And there will be more posts about our city stays in Valparaiso and Buenos Aires, comparable to this one about Santiago. It is always about best luxury hotels and fine-dining restaurants worth the money spent on at the respective places.

Date of stay: November 2023

Pin it for later

The post Where to stay & dine in style in Santiago de Chile first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Where to stay & dine in style in Santiago de Chile appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Patagonia, shared between Chile and Argentina, at the southernmost point of South America, is a very special place. This windswept glacier country at the end of the world attracts more and more well-heeled travelers. So, you find here – in the Chilean part around the Torres del Paine National Park – high-end lodging too. It is not plentiful, often full, and the prices reflect the demand. While touring the area – see my itinerary post – , my husband and I stayed at two luxury hotels in Patagonia, at The Singular Patagonia and Tierra Patagonia.

Before going into the lodging experience at these two places, first an overview of all the upscale hotels in Chile’s Puerto Natales region. This is where the heart of Southern Patagonia is, around the Torres del Paine National Park.

Overview luxury hotels around Torres del Paine National Park Patagonia

There are four luxury hotels in the Torres del Paine National Park Patagonia area to choose from. I start with the one that is right inside the park and end with the one that is furthest away from it. All the accommodations expect The Singular only offer all-inclusive rates and require a minimum stay of three nights in the high season (November to February).

1. Explora Patagonia

This is the most favorably located high-end lodging of all as it is within the park. It is just by the Lake Pehoé, centrally situated for many activities. Staying here requires spending around 3,000 US$ for two per night (all-inclusive). This is in the high season for the standard room (28 sqm), which is simply furnished yet comfortable. The lodge was opened in 1993 and has 49 rooms. Explorations are carried out in small groups.

2. Tierra Patagonia

Tierra Patagonia is just outside the park boundaries by Lake Sarmiento with view of the Torres del Paine. From here to the park entrance you need about 20 minutes by car. They charge around 2,700 US$ for two per night (all-inclusive). And this is true in the high season for the standard room (33 sqm). Accommodations at Tierra are well appointed in a modern style. You find 40 of them at this hotel that was built in 2011. Excursions are available as part of small groups.

3. Awasi Patagonia luxury hotel

This luxury hotel is not far from Tierra Patagonia yet overlooks another part of Lake Sarmiento and the Torres del Paine. The drive to the park entrance lasts longer (45 minutes). This is the most upscale lodging of all and has a high price tag. You have to spend around 3,500 US$ for two per night (all-inclusive). Again that applies in the high season for the standard room. Having said that it is not your normal entry-level accommodation. Instead it is about a stand-alone building with 80 sqm space and offering every luxury. And there are only 14 units at the lodge that was opened in 2013. Plus, you have your own private guide for your explorations.

4. The Singular Patagonia luxury hotel

As mentioned, this is the hotel furthest away from the park. Actually, you need about one and half hour by car to the entrance. It is situated on the banks of the Ultima Esperanza Fiord in Puerto Bories, a few minutes by car away from Puerto Natales. In contrast to the other three lodging options, you can choose here from different rates and there is usually no minimum stay.

In the high season you pay around 900 US$ for two per night for the standard room (45 sqm) on a bed and breakfast basis. The accommodations are originally decorated with vintage and modern furniture, which gives them an eclectic feel. Alternatively, you can book the Half Board option (around 1,100 US$) or the Complete Experience (2,200 US$). In case you do not opt for the latter, you can book excursions separately (carried out in small groups). The Singular Patagonia, which is a former industrial space, was opened 2011 and has 57 rooms.

After this info to the high-end lodging around Patagonia’s most popular national park, now to the two luxury hotels I know from personal experience, The Singular Patagonia and Tierra Patagonia.

Staying in style at Hotel The Singular Patagonia

As I mentioned above, you have to drive quite a bit in order to get to the Torres del Paine National Park from here. And once inside the park, you need more time to reach the individual trail heads. So, The Singular Patagonia is not necessairly a substitute for the hotels in and just outside the park. Instead it may be rather suitable as a supplement for travelers on their way in or out of the park. This is especially true for the ones who want to do one or more full day hikes in the Torres del Paine National Park. On the other hand, the Singular Patagonia’s location is favorable if you want to be near the airport of Puerto Natales. This luxury hotel is only six minutes away from it.

The Singular Patagonia’s back story

The Singular Patagonia is something between a hotel and a museum. From 1915 until 1985 it was a cold storage plant which processed, froze and exported meat from Patagonia. The complex became a National Monument in 1996, a museum in 2004 and a hotel in 2011. All the original turbines and machines are still in place, with labels explaining their function.

The Singular Patagonia is family owned, and this by the Sahli family in the second generation. They put emphasis on reflecting the identity, the heritage, the social and cultural soul of where their hotels are located. Their other property is in Santiago, opened 2014 in the Lastarria neighborhood.

Ambiance/Staff

The Singular Patagonia does not hide that it used to be a slaughterhouse. It stands its ground, serving as proud symbol of the community’s history and traditions. The ambiance here is unstuffy and relaxed. Staff is gracious, accommodative and eager to please you.

Rooms

All the 57 rooms are in the newly built modern annex.

It suits the ancient buildings in which you find the reception, lobby and restaurants. All the rooms have the same glorious view overlooking the Ultima Esperanza Fiord. And this through floor-to-ceiling picture windows.

There is ample space with generous bathrooms.

And you find here a mix of modern and Victorian reproduction furniture.

Restaurants

The main dining spot, Singular Restaurant, serves exquisite French inspired food in a sophisticated yet casual setting.

Chef Hernán Basso prepares refined dishes with local ingredients just as guanaco or austral hake. His signature meal, lamb shoulder for two, is first-rate indeed. If you are on half board, you can choose three courses from the menu. And this meal plan also includes drinks and the house wines. My husband’s and my dinners at The Singular Restaurant were the best we had in Patagonia.

In addition, you find here also Desayunador, the breakfast place,

El Adasdor, specialized in wood-fired meats (not always open) and the Bar for light meals.

Other facilities

On site there is a 280 sqm spa with indoor and outdoor pool, sauna, steam room and treatment units. There are also bikes available so you can explore the surroundings by cycling.

Excursions

The excursions at The Singular Patagonia – included in the all-inclusive arrangement – are varied. They range from their signature full day trip to the Balmaceda Glacier on one of their small privately owned boats to trekking and horse riding outings in the area and full day excursions to the Torres del Paine National Park.

On our stay, the full-day navigation to Fiords and Glaciers by boat did not take place because it was too windy (370 US$ per person), so we settled for two half day hiking tours in the surroundings (120 US$ per half day and person). They are carried out in small groups and are well organized and led. They also include drinks and snacks.

Overall The Singular Patagonia

Although The Singular Patagonia is quite a bit away from the Torres del Paine National Park, my husband and I enjoyed our stay here more than our other at a luxury hotel just outside the park’s boundaries (see below). In my opinion, it offers much more value for money, especially if you choose the half board option. We did so as we were in no need of the third meal per day. Plus, we wanted to be flexible as to excursions. In addition, we liked The Singular’s vibe and the food much better, which were more upscale than it was the case at its competitor.  I would especially recommend this hotel if you do not want to do long and strenuous hikes at every day of your stay (for instance nine hour-hike to the Base of Torres del Paine).

Now to the second lodging we had in Patagonia, which turned out – as mentioned – to be a bit of a disappointment. This in particular given the steep rate of almost 3,000 US$ per day.

Staying in style at Hotel Tierra Patagonia

As to the headline, I have to backtrack a little. We did not receive as much luxury as the high price would suggest. If you really want to stay in style adjacent to the Torres del Paine National Park, then I suggest choosing Hotel Awasi Patagonia instead. While I have not been here, I resided at Hotel Awasi Atacama – post to follow – , which was top notch. And I suppose the experience is not much different at their sister lodge in Patagonia. But back to Tierra Patagonia.

The Tierra Patagonia’s back story

Tierra Patagonia is the middle child of three – the others are in the Atacama Desert and on Chiloé Island. This hotel group was founded by the Chilean Purcell family, who previously also was the sole owner of it. End of 2022, the Australian based ultra-luxury Baillie Lodges acquired a majority share in Tierra Hotels. This collection of luxury hotels had been bought in 2019 by KSL Capital Partners, an investment company.

The Tierra Patagonia is not only thoughtfully built so it almost disappears into the land, it is also a true beauty. The building is of a sweeping, curving shape that is inspired by the wind. And lots of it is finished in local wood, both in the exteriors and the interiors.

Ambiance/Staff

While the property is generous and nicely designed, it is everything but stylish or chic. Despite its modern appearance, it has a rustic and down-to earth flair. Tierra Patagonia is not the place to dress up or to have a sophisticated dinner. Instead, you find here guests in casual gear and also in bigger groups – there was a big German group on our stay. As a consequence of the open plan layout, it also can get quite noisy.

Staff was a bit a mixed package. Whereas the expedition team knows to persuade in every aspect, this is not the case at the restaurant and the adjacent bar. Most servers were friendly and helpful yet some lacked competence and experience. For my husband and me, the approach was a bit too much on the casual side, again in view of the elevated price level.

Rooms

All 40 rooms in the low-lying, two-story building offer uninterrupted views of the Torres mountains, which are on the other side of the lake. It definitely is a highlight to watch the changing scenery through the big picture windows! There are two types of room (apart from the suites), the Standard with 33 sqm and the Superior with 36 sqm. While I found the Superior’s bathroom quite spacious, the bedroom felt a bit cramped to me. Again there is lots of wood in the rooms along with a simple, minimalist decor.

Restaurant/Bar

There is as mentioned a single restaurant with a bar. Coming from the lobby, you pass a few tables by a fire place and a round bar before reaching – seamlessly – the restaurant. If you happen to have a table near the bar, this might be inconvenient. This is especially the case if a large group – the mentioned German party of about 25 persons – has pre-dinner drinks here.

As to food, there usually is a daily changing menu for dinner (barbecue on Saturdays). You can make your choice out of three starters, three mains (meat, fish, vegetarian) and two desserts respectively cheese or ice cream/sorbet. Some dishes were good, other were nothing special. If you are a foodie with certain expectations, you probably will be disappointed by the offer. For sure, value for money is not good enough.

Other facilities

On site you find a Uma spa with an indoor pool that comes with hydro-massage and waterjets. An outdoor whirlpool and yoga sessions in a separate room complete the offer. If you want to make a self-guided walk on the premises, no problem. There is a path to Sarmiento Lake, and you can walk along its edge for quite a long stretch.

Excursions

All the excursions – also the sailing to Grey Glacier, which is highly recommended – are included in the room rate.

Apart from the mentioned sailing it is about exploring the park via walks/hikes, biking or riding, and this in form of half or full day trips. The excursion team does a really good job. A dedicated coordinator advises the guests as well arranges and accompanies the activities. Young guides with much elan carry through the excursions, in small groups. We loved the experience, which also included drinks and snacks.

Overall Tierra Patagonia

At the risk of repeating myself: I do not think that Tierra Patagonia is worth its high price tag. Of course, the building in nothing short of impressive. Plus, the hotel is conveniently located for visiting the Torres del Paine National Park. And last but not least, the excursion team does a brilliant job. But that is it. Rooms are rather small and nothing special. The quality of food is mixed. Service at the restaurant/bar varies. Bottom line, Tierra Patagonia rather feels like an average four-star establishment, and this as absolute wallet breaker! Yet it seems that the demand is there!

Looking back and forward in my Chile & Buenos Aires reporting

My last and first blogpost about Chile and Buenos Aires was about a 20-day itinerary in style my husband and I did. It is first and foremost about My Google Map including all the luxury lodging and fine dining restaurants we were. Plus, I list all the activities we did. This also involves city tours in keywords to Buenos Aires, Santiago and Valparaiso. And everything comes with correspondent pictures.

This very post delivered all the details to our Patagonia stay at two high-end hotels, The Singular Patagonia and the Tierra Patagonia near the Torres del Paine Nationalpark. I will do the same for the Atacama Desert in my next post where we lodged at the Awasi.

Then I will also let you know where to stay and dine in style in Santiago, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires.

Date of stay: November 2023

Pin it for later

The post Staying in style in Southern Patagonia/Chile around Torres del Paine first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Staying in style in Southern Patagonia/Chile around Torres del Paine appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

As a significant stage in the life of my husband and mine is about to come to an end – more info to follow later this year – , we  treated us to a special journey. It is about a once in a lifetime trip to Chile. We had thought hard about where to go in South America. After visiting Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands a few years ago, we had been a bit unsure where to head next. Brazil seemed too dangerous for us, Peru rather over-run by tourists. So, we opted for Chile. And this mainly because of its many natural wonders. As always when traveling we were looking for a luxury trip to Chile. While we usually try to avoid overspending when vacationing, we miserably failed here – so much I can tell you already. But first things first.

I start with some thoughts about where to go in Chile for luxury-minded globetrotters and then come to the actual itinerary.

Traveling Chile in style

While we first thought we had had plenty of time (20 days) to explore Chile, we soon found out that this was not necessarily the case. Out of four highlights – Atacama Desert, Patagonia, Easter Island and Lake District – , we had to leave away the latter two. First of all, we “lost” three days because we had a stopover in Buenos Aires.

We opted for this not only because of this city’s beauty but also due to less flight costs when doing so (minus a bit more than 2,000 US$ for two). And second, we longed for a non-rushed itinerary. Having said that we wanted to see different parts of Chile, not only one. Yet Patagonia is usually a must for every Chile traveler boasting varied landscapes with impressive glaciers, bizarre rock formations, blue lakes and extensive steppes.

Patagonia (south Chile, from Puerto Montt to Cape Horn) luxury trip

You have to know that you can easily spend four weeks in Patagonia without seeing it all. It is said that you need about two weeks to do the mayor things here, and this in a quick way. As you might know, Patagonia has a harsh climate. As my husband and I are not too much into spending lots of time at such latitudes, we limited our time here to five days. This is about the minimum time you should come and only allows you to explore one place. My husband and I chose Patagonia’s crown jewel. This is about the Torres del Paine National Park in Southern Patagonia (see post about luxury hotels here). You can reach it by flying into Puerto Natales from Santiago in just over three hours. Then you have to drive another one and half hours to get to the national park’s entrance.

A second Chile destination: Atacama Desert (north Chile, from Copiapó to Peruvian border)

If you want to combine Patagonia with a second destination in Chile – and if you like nature – , then the Atacama Desert is your best option (see post about luxury hotels here). While the Lake District also seems to be worthwhile traveling, Atacama is something special. It is not only the driest nonpolar desert in the world but also features diverse landscapes including geysers, lagoons, volcanoes and crusty hills. As to Easter Island, you have to take into account a flight of five and a half hours in order to get there. To enjoy the island’s cultural heritage and natural beauty to the full, I suppose you should plan at least a four-day stay. So, you need almost one week for this undertaking.

Thus, we went for Patagonia and the Atacama Desert. And to be honest, both of them are not exactly off the beaten path. They suffer from overtourism, especially the place we chose in Patagonia (Torres del Paine National Park). I fully realized this only after our journey. Yet, also in the hindsight, we would make the same choices. The Lake District, the most viable alternative to South Patagonia, is considered as “Chilean Switzerland”. And we as Swiss not necessarily need more Switzerland when traveling.

Santiago & Valparaiso as urban complements to Patagonia & Atacama Desert

Around the two nature highlights of Patagonia and the Atacama Desert we built in a number of urban stays. On the one hand, we were three times in Santiago (post about staying & dining in style) – once at an airport hotel as you cannot fly directly from the Atacama Desert to Patagonia.

On the other hand, we made a three-day visit to Valparaiso (post about staying & dining in style) – a one and a half hour drive away from Santiago.

This beautiful port city is Chile’s second largest and known for its colorful houses built on the many hills that surround it – and Valparaiso is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In total, we had five days in Santiago and three days in Valparaiso. That is a lot of time, but as mentioned, we were looking for a non-rushed itinerary. You can easily reduce the Santiago stay to three days – you probably need one of them for a stopover between the Atacama Desert and Patagonia. As to Valparaiso, two days might be enough to see the mayor sights. We had thought about exploring the wine regions near Santiago. Yet we did not come across a suitable hotel, and so we let it be.

After setting the scene as to this luxury Chile trip, I jump into the details of our Buenos Aires and Chile itinerary.

My Google Map of Chile & Buenos Aires in style, a non-rushed 20-day itinerary 

My Google Map illustrates the 20-day journey to Chile and Buenos Aires my husband and I undertook in the first half of November 2023.

You find here all the luxury hotels (Patagonia, Atacama Desert, Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires) we stayed

and the foodie restaurants (Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires) we dined,

complete with pictures. In addition, I included all the activities we did,

again with photos.

As far as our stays in Patagonia around Puerto Natales and in the Atacama Desert in the San Pedro area are concerned, I listed all the half and full days trip guided by the hotels we stayed.

With regard to the cities we visited (Buenos Aires, Santiago and Valparaiso), I indicated the routes we took to explore them (self-guided).

In the following, there is also a travel plan of this luxury Chile trip with the number of nights we spent at the respective location (plus hotel).

• 3 nights in Buenos Aires (Park Hyatt Buenos Aires)
• 2 nights in Santiago (The Singular Santiago)
• 4 nights in San Pedro de Atacama (Awasi Atacama)
• 1 night in Santiago (airport, Holiday Inn Santiago)
• 2 nights in Puerto Natales (The Singular Patagonia)
• 3 nights in Torres del Paine National Park (Tierra Patagonia)
• 3 nights in Valparaiso (Casa Higueras)
• 2 nights in Santiago (The Singular Santiago)

What is next about Chile & Buenos Aires

While I provided an overview of our Chile and Buenos 20-day luxury trip in this blogpost, my next posts will be about the details of the respective stops we did. When doing so, I will focus on the hotels and restaurants we visited. Most of them were high-end, as it was a luxury Chile trip. At one point or another, I will also cast a look at activities, yet these will no be at the center of my attention. Instead, refer to My Google Map of Chile & Buenos Aires in style where I have listed all the things we did, complete with (numbered) pictures.

My Chile short series will cover following topics:

• Patagonia (my post): Hotel The Singular Patagonia (half board) and Hotel Tierra (all-inclusive)
• Atacama Desert (my post): Hotel Awasi Atacama (all-inclusive)
• Santiago (my post): Hotel The Singular Santiago and three foodie restaurants
• Valparaiso (my post): Hotel Casa Higueras and three high-end dining spots
• Buenos Aires (my post): Hotel Park Hyatt Buenos Aires and three gourmet restaurants

Date of stays: November 2023

Pin it for later

The post Chile & Buenos Aires in style, a non-rushed 20-day itinerary first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Chile & Buenos Aires in style, a non-rushed 20-day itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Lake Garda in the Italian Lakes region in north Italy has been on my bucket list for a long time. And as it makes a good combination with the South Tyrol, where my husband and I had planned to go in late summer, we decided to finally realize a stay here. When it came to where to go exactly, I came across Gardone Riviera on its southwestern shore by chance. I had heard about a Michelin starred restaurant here that seems to be a must-be for fine dining lovers, Lido 84. And so I had checked out the nearby luxury hotels, and liked what I found, especially so Grand Hotel Fasano. Plus, the town is considered as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. After all this positive information, I knew that Gardone Riviera was our destination for staying and dining in style on Lake Garda!

I already gave a hint, we did not only go to the Lake Garda area on this journey, but visited several places in north Italy and one in west Switzerland. Find out all about our 14-day road trip in the next section, before I go into Gardone Riviera. And this to let you know about its finest high-end hotel.

14-day itinerary through north Italy & west Switzerland

As indicated, we paired the South Tyrol (our first destination), where we made two stops, with Lake Garda. Afterwards, we returned to Switzerland. But instead of heading home, we made one more stay on Lake Geneva. Check out my overview post if you want to know the details of our 14-day journey through northeast Italy and west Switzerland. In case you rather want information of combining Italy’s northwest with France’s south, have a look at my 11-day itinerary that we did in 2021.

As to our way of traveling, we stay at high-end hotels and dine at Michelin (star) restaurants as long as we consider their pricing as somewhat reasonable. We do not pay prohibitive rates!

This is the moment to continue with Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda, precisely with the luxury hotel of our choice at this spot. If you want to know what activities to undertake here, I mentioned some in my itinerary post.

Staying in style at Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera

Grand Hotel Fasano is one of several old word accommodations in Gardone Riviera, mostly built in the late 19th century. In my view, out of them, Grand Hotel Gardone

is the most impressive. And this mainly because of its size, the main building is incredibly long! At the time, there were 300 guest rooms, all facing south (now you find 167 on site). From what I read, this hotel will undergo a 45 million euro renovation as of 2024. Once done, it will be managed by Apex Alliance Hotel Management (Hilton, Marriott, Radisson).

But back to Grand Hotel Fasano, our choice in Gardone Riviera. For me, it is the most beautiful grand hotel in town. More to its other features in the sections to follow. I begin with its back story before going into location, ambiance/staff, rooms/pricing, restaurants and other facilities.

Grand Hotel Fasano’s back story

Grand Hotel Fasano was built in neo-Classical style in 1888. While it originally was a hunting lodge for the Austrian imperial family, it was converted into a luxury hotel later on. The property got its name (Fasano) from the word fasaneria (pheasantry). In the years to follow, the hotel saw many prominent guests. While there were mostly aristocrats in the beginning, later on show-biz celebrities took over. Shirley Temple, Federico Fellini or Marcello Mastroianni stayed here, to name a few.

During the Second World War Grand Hotel Fasano was turned into a military hospital. After the war, the property was in a pitiful state. For example, the wooden floors were torn up as they had been used as firewood. Nevertheless, the hotel opened quite soon again for the summer season of 1948. This time, the clientele mostly was middle class. In 1962, the hotel undertook an expansion (the third) and a thorough renovation, which made it possible for the Fasano to become a high-end establishment again. Finally, in 1989, it was declared a National Heritage by the Italian government.

Grand Hotel Fasano is family owned by the Mayrs – stemming from the South Tyrol – in the third generation. Nowadays, it is run this by the brother duo of Olliver and Patrick Mayr. Over the years, the hotel has constantly been refurbished and modernized. In 2007, a spa was added. The more recent renovations transported the property into the five-star superior category. In 2022, the Fasano became member of the exclusive hotel group of The Leading Hotels of the World. And the latest highlight is the large-scale makeover of the spa, realized for the hotel’s 135th birthday in 2023.

Location

You know by now that we are here on Lake Garda in north Italy, and this on its southwestern shore. The stretch of coast where it lies is called Lemon Riviera. And this thanks to its mild microclimate which lets Mediterranean plants grow.

As to Grand Hotel Fasano’s location, you have to be aware that the small town of Gardone Riviera is quite an elongated one. There are two districts by the lake, Gardone and Fasano. And to make it even more complicated, there are two more on the hillside. Yet this is of no importance in this context. Anyway, the district of Fasano, where the hotel is situated – hence the name – , is not where the center is. To get to it – to Gardone’s lungolago (lakeside promenade) and the jetty – , you have to walk for about 15 minutes. But it is no big deal, and there is even an elevated sidewalk for most of the way. Otherwise, Grand Hotel Fasano’s situation is exceptionally beautiful. It is in set in a majestic building on the lakeshore, surrounded by beautiful gardens.

The next bigger town in the area is Salò (10,000 inhabitants), about five minutes by car away. Yet you can easily get there by foot too (1 h), my husband and I did it once.

Getting to Gardone Riviera from Brescia, the provincial capital, is only possible by car (35 minutes) or bus (1 h 30 minutes). You find in this city also an airport, another one is in Verona (1 h by car to Gardone Riviera).

Ambiance/Staff at Grand Hotel Fasano

Staying at a grand hotel is always a special experience, and doing so at such a splendid one as the Fasano even more so. The owner family went to great lengths to maintain an old world feel without closing themselves off to modernism. I could imagine that the room and the terrace where breakfast is served have not much changed over the years. The same is true for the service here. When you show up for breakfast, you are accompanied by the maître d’ to your table, and this without exception. That has style, and this without being stiff or overly formal.

While the reception area makes the impression of having been unchanged since the beginning, other public spaces just as the lobby/library area got a fresh new look.

As to the guest rooms, I understand that some of them are fully and other partially renovated. From the pictures on the website, I gathered that there are accommodations both in a classic style and in a contemporary one. More about the room my husband and I had you find in the respective section to follow.

As to the staff’s attitude, it was spotless throughout our stay. I found that the one at the reception desk did a particularly good job. They were hospitable, efficient and professional whenever we got in touch with them. Yet also the staff at breakfast was able to convince. As to the service at Grand Hotel Fasano’s restaurants, our one and only dinner here (Il Fagiano) was a success, service and food wise (details to the latter follow).

Rooms/Pricing

There are 79 rooms in total, available in many categories, different styles (classic or modern) and renovated to various degrees (partly or completely). Rates start at 260 € for the Standard Room (20 – 25 sqm, no lake view) in low season. The next higher category is the Superior Room (from 364 €, 20 to 25 sqm, partial or full sea view), followed by the Deluxe Room Lake View (from 462 €, 30 to 35 sqm, with balcony). The best room category (without suites) is the Executive Room Lake View (from 554 €, 40 to 50 sqm, with balcony).

I found it not easy to orientate within the website when it came to choose the right room for our needs. We usually go for a spacious enough accommodation with a view, and as many people we prefer it to be recently renovated. In terms of style, we rather go for a modern one, yet we are not averse to classics ones as long as they are well kept. Anyway, we finally opted for the Executive Room Lake View. Find in the next section more details to this room category.

Executive Room Lake View: our choice of room at Grand Hotel Fasano

We got a completely renovated, modern styled room on the third floor (British: second floor). And that was actually what we had been hoping for (there are also classically styled rooms). If you prefer a certain style, I advise on being specific about your wishes. The same is true for the floor. The one we had was perfect. One higher up is probably even better, however one lower is not so good (view is a bit marred by the roof of the restaurant terrace below).

As to the room features, I was astonished to see that once entering the accommodation you are in the middle of the bathroom. It is not separated from the bedroom, yet at least there is a wardrobe (and a seating area) between bath tub and bed.

In this context, I noticed that the bath tub at the Deluxe Room Lake View category is only separated by a curtain! This has to suit you …

Apart from the open bath room – from which I am not a fan – , I was very much in favor of our room! It appeared exceptionally spacious to me. There are two seating areas, one was just behind the wardrobe I mentioned, which we rarely made use of. The other is right by the window, and it is about two swivel upholstered armchairs. The latter feature is really a fun element in here, I liked them a lot! They are great in case the weather does not allow to sit on the balcony. In the end, we did not use them as often as we had thought initially as the weather was warm and sunny all the time.

As to the balcony, the views from here are gorgeous. I sat here many times, taken from all this beauty around me.

Overall Executive Room Lake View

The room very much appealed to me – including the color scheme. However, some elements are not on the practical side. This is about the open bathroom and the somewhat small wardrobe. Yet also the baggage area is located at a spot where you usually do not need it. Precisely, it is opposite the bed, quite a distance from the wardrobe.

Restaurants at Grand Hotel Fasano

When staying at the Fasano, you have four restaurants at your disposal. Three of them are on site, one (La Darsena Ristorante & Pizzeria) is in Barbarano, half an hour by foot or five minutes by car away. As to the ones at the hotel, the Magnolia is only open for lunch, the two others only for dinner.

In terms of the latter, Il Fagiano is the flagship dining spot, with creative, contemporary Italian cuisine (one Michelin star).

The other one, Il Pescatore, is a trattoria, which is a bit less formal than the former. The specialty here is fish in particular, as the name suggests. My husband and I had dined at Il Fagiano on one evening. Learn about how it was in my next blogpost where I go into dining in style in Gardone Riviera. We were at all the four Michelin (starred) dining spots in town, so I can provide a good overview.

Furthermore, Grand Hotel Fasano has three spots for having drinks and snacks. These are the lobby, the Gin Lounge or La Terrazza (outdoor area).

Other facilities

Park & outdoor pools

In case you are a sunbather, Grand Hotel Fasano is ideal for this kind of activity (or rather inactivity). You find here a stunning 12,000 sqm park, filled with magnolias, palm and banana trees.

If you want to swim, you can do this in the lake or the two (not so big) pools. One is heated, the other not. As to the indoor pools, I go briefly into them in the next section.

Spa

I mentioned it above, the spa experienced a total overhaul and first opened its doors in March 2023 after these works. So, it is brand-new! I have to admit, I  did not use it, so I can neither comment nor provide pictures. But here are a few facts about it.

The AQVA SPA 2.0 covers over 3,500 sqm and consists of five different areas. First, there are an indoor pool and a panoramic whirlpool. You can also swim from the indoor pool area to the outdoor one through a so-called adventure tunnel. Second, if you have kids, you can use the family steam bath. Third, you find on site a large sauna area complete with Finnish sauna, Roman steam bath, Vitarium (herbal steam bath) and Tepidarium (hot relaxation room). Forth, for relaxation you can decide between the winter garden or the relaxation room. And fifth, AVEDA’s Ayurvedic treatments and SOTHYS’ massages are available.

In addition, they offer classes (pilates and yoga), a fitness center with Technogym equipment, a hairdresser corner (external service) and a wellness buffet with refreshments.

Overall Grand Hotel Fasano

Grand Hotel Fasano is for sure one of the top addresses for discerning guests looking for an enjoyable stay on Lake Garda. You are here at a stately late 19th century castle surrounded by lush grounds and located directly on the lake. The premises are perfectly kept with lots of renovation works done in recent years (guest rooms and spa). Dining options are varied and also include a Michelin listed restaurant. Service is impeccable, and the clientele is (pleasantly) diverse, I think, thanks to being a member of The Leading Hotels of the World.

Location wise, you are here in one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. There are two major sights in town and many more in the surroundings. Furthermore, Gardone Riviera lies on the Lemon Riviera. This stretch of coast boasts a Mediterranean-like microclimate, which lets citrus fruits grow – hence the name.

Looking back and forward

As announced, there will be more info on dining in style in Gardone Riviera in a blogpost to come. I will cover all the Michelin (starred) restaurants in town.

The post after next goes in the same direction. However, we are talking about the Montreux area on Lake Geneva in west Switzerland. This was the last stop of a 14-day road trip through northern Italy & western Switzerland in style of my husband and me. And as far as this destination is concerned, I will go into the only two one-star Michelin restaurants in the town of Montreux. When it comes to staying in style here, a former blogpost of mine was about that.

All that is left for me to do is letting you know which destinations we went before Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda. This is about two spots in the South Tyrol, the village of Tirolo above Merano and the Sarentino valley above Bolzano.

Date of stay: September 2023

Pin it for later

The post 5-star Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda in north Italy first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 5-star Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda in north Italy appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Yet another road trip in north Italy and west Switzerland was on my husband’s and my agenda this late summer. And this after already doing one to Italy’s north (and France’s south) in 2021 (see my post). But this region in Italy has so much to offer in terms of great destinations, luxury hotels and Michelin (starred) dining spots. And contrary to our last journey, we went more east this time, to Trentino-South Tyrol and Lombardy. Before coming to details where we were headed (this and the last trip), some info on our travel focus. My husband and I like to travel in style. That means looking for high-end lodging and Michelin fine dining wherever we get to. Yet we attach great importance to not paying exorbitant prices.

Now to the itineraries as announced.

North Italy & west Switzerland 14-day road trip itinerary

For the itinerary of our last trip in the area, check out my correspondent post. It went to northern Italy and southern France in 11 days. As to the Italian part, we started in the Piedmont (Lake Orta and around Alba) and continued to the Italian Riviera (Alassio). After crossing the border to France, we headed first to Vence (French Riviera), then to the Provence (near Les Baux-de-Provence). The last stop before returning to Switzerland was in Vienne, south of Lyon.

This time, we began our journey in the Trentino-South Tyrol (Italian: Trentino-Alto Adige). Find here my Google Map of it.

Our first two destinations were in the South Tyrol. Dorf Tirol (Italian: Tirolo) above Meran (Italian: Merano)

made the start – not to be confused with the Austrian region of the same name! You might have already noticed it, the South Tyrol is bilingual (German and Italy), not so the Trentino. Next was the nearby Sarntal (Italian: Sarentino valley)

above Bozen (Italian: Bolzano). And the last stop in Italy were the Italian Lakes, precisely Lake Garda.

While its northern part is still in the Trentino-South Tyrol region, the place we went – Gardone Riviera (hotel/restaurants) – is already in the Lombardy (Italian: Lormbardia). The final destination of our trip was the Lake Geneva region, in the western part of Switzerland, exactly Glion/Montreux.

From place to place in north Italy & west Switzerland

As my husband and I like to travel in style – without losing sight of value for money -, we made sure to stay at upscale hotels and to dine at gourmet restaurants, preferably Michelin listed or starred places. This was not really a difficult thing to do as north Italy and west Switzerland has quite a choice for lovers of fine lodging and dining.

I always begin with a short description of the respective town/region and continue with providing some brief information on the high-end hotel we stayed and on the fine dining spot(s) we ate in this place. Sometimes, I will also mention some other places to stay and dine in style in the area that might be worth trying out.

1. Tirolo above Merano, Trentino-South Tyrol

1.1. About Tirolo

Tirolo is located above Merano, the hub here. As to the latter, it is small yet fine spa town in the heart of the South Tyrol. Actually, it is the second largest city in the South Tyrol (about 40,000 inhabitants). This medieval town has been a popular place to go since Empress Elisabeth of Austria (Sissi) started coming here. And she did this especially because of its spa and its almost Mediterranean climate. Lots of buildings, parks and promenades stem from this time.

And if you like walking, Merano and its surroundings is known for its abundance of Waalwege, trails alongs irrigation canals.

As far as Tirolo is concerned, it also is steeped in culture and history. You find here and around it some notable castles, fortresses and churches, from which the Tyrol Castle is the most prominent. Otherwise, the small village (about 2,500 inhabitants) draws lots of vacationeers in search of sun, panoramic vistas and hiking opportunities.

You can reach Merano from here in a short drive either by car or by bus. There is also a chairlift connecting these two places.

1.2. Which hotel to choose as demanding guest in Tirolo

There is a huge selection of luxury hotels in the Merano area to choose from. After having stayed here several times in the past, I have identified two of the best (see also my correspondent post). While we tried out a “new one” on our last stay, this time we returned to the one we knew from two previous stays. And I have to say that this luxury hotel is hard to beat! The latest renovation (2021) made it a state-of-the-art property with all the amenities you can think of. It is about Hotel Castel in Tirolo. It also hosts the one and only two-star Michelin restaurant in the Merano region. A post to come will go into more details of this stunning lodging.

1.3. Where to go for great Michelin listed (starred) restaurants in Tirolo

I just mentioned it, you do not have to leave your hotel in case you stay at the Castel in Tirolo when looking for best fine dining in the area. This is because the top place in this respect is on site. It is about Restaurant Castel Fine Dining, a Michelin two-starred establishment, and this since 2010 (formerly Trenkerstube).

When being a hotel guest at Hotel Castel, you are on half board – there is no other noteworthy (Michelin) fine dining in Tirolo anyway. And this arrangement allows you to enjoy exquisite food without even visiting the mentioned Michelin starred Restaurant Castel Fine Dining.

Notwithstanding that, when being a fine food lover, I highly recommend dining here once during your stay. This gives you not only the opportunity to indulge in chef Gerhard Wieser’s signature dishes but also to check out one of the most beautiful dining rooms I have ever encountered (only five tables and all have this tremendous view of Merano from high above). More about dining at Hotel Castel and at Restaurant Castel Fine Dining follows in the above mentioned future post.

2. Sarentino valley above Bolzano, Trentino-South Tyrol

2.1. About the Sarentino valley

The Sarentino valley stretches northwards from Bolzano, South Tyrol’s capital and its largest city (about 110,000 inhabitants). When coming from Merano, I recommend to make a short stop in Bolzano to check out its beautiful old town.

This especially given the fact that you only need about one hour for your drive from Merano to the hamlet above Sarnthein (Sarentino), the valley’s capital, where our choice of hotel is located. Bolzano – as Merano – was influenced by Germanic and Italian currents, yet I personally find that it feels more Italian than Merano.

Just a few kilometers/miles away from the bustling regional center of Bolzano you reach the idyllic village of Sarentino (2,300 inhabitants). This is another world, full of wild nature and far off the beaten track. And the area is great for hiking with a view. A great panoramic vista awaits you – among others the entire spectrum of the Dolomites, a UNESCO world natural heritage.

While you are in the village of Sarentino at 980 m/3,315 ft above sea level, you have to climb further  up in order to come to Prati/Auen where you find the hotel I am going to inform you about. And the road to it is narrow!

2.2. Where to stay in the Sarentino valley as discerning traveler

First and foremost, there is one place in the area that makes people loving the finer things in life to come here. And this is Hotel Terra The Magic Place! Once you have the before mentioned narrow road behind you, you made it to this remote spot at 1,622 m/5,322 ft above sea level. There are a public parking lot (for hikers), a ski hut and this amazing hotel you would not think finding here. It is a Relais & Châteaux property that has seen several renovations and expansions since 2010, a true gem surrounded by unspoiled nature. And imagine it not only offers immaculate lodging but also a two-star Michelin dining-spot! If you want to know more about this place, one of my next blogpost will go into it.

In case you are looking for prime lodging around the village of Sarentino

and nearer to Bolzano, Hotel Bad Schoergau might be a good option too. I have not been here but I liked what I saw when checking it out on the internet.

2.3. Where to dine in style in the Sarentino valley

What draws hard-core foodies to the Sarentino valley, is of course the mentioned Michelin two-starred Restaurant Terra at Hotel Terra The Magic Place high above the village of Sarentino. You will find more info about it in my post about the hotel in question soon on my blog.

Yet there is more of fine dining in the village of Sarentino. On the one hand, it is about the Michelin listed dining spot at the already highlighted Hotel Bad Schoergau, the Ristorante Alpes/La FuGa. On the other hand, you find a Michelin eatery in town too, Restaurant Braunwirt. I have not dined at either of them, so I cannot comment, but the reviews are good.

3. Gardone Riviera on Lake Garda, Lombardy

3.1. About Gardone Riviera

Before coming to the town of Gardone Riviera, a few words about Lake Garda. It is one of the Italian Lakes, a group of larges lakes on the south side of the Alps, all of them glacial ones. And Lake Garda is not only the largest of them but also in whole Italy. On its western shore, you find the Lemon Riviera – from Salò to Limone. This stretch along the lake has a mild, Mediterranean-like climate, so even citrus fruits grow here.

As to Gardone Riviera – on the Lemon Riviera – , it is favorably located for many sights. Not only boasts it some important ones on site – Il Vittoriale degli Italiani (a Gesamtkunstwerk of house, monument and fantasy)

or the Heller Botanical Garden,

it is close to many others. I mention here for example Salò, the region’s town with the nicest Lungolago (lakeside promenade)

or Sirmione, THE tourist attraction in the area (expect masses of people here) with the Scaliger Castle (an extraordinary lakeside fortification)

or the Grottoes of Catullus (a striking example of a Roman villa, now in ruins).

While Gardone Riviera is not large (it only has a bit more than 2,500 inhabitants), it has everything that makes a real place – a nice Lungolago, a small old quarter by the lake, an old town on the hillside. And its laid-back ambiance is a plus too. And it is even considered as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy (part of I Borghi più Belli d’Italia).

3.2. Which luxury hotel to choose in Gardone Riviera

You find quite a number of upscale hotels in Gardone Riviera. Many of them are late 19th, early 20th century properties. Some line the lake front, others are located hillside, overlooking the lake. At the end, we had fluctuated between Hotel Bella Riva and Grand Hotel Fasano. Finally, we decided for the latter, and this for various reasons. First, it is a wonderful old building in a stately park among ancient trees, frontally facing the lake. Second, it is closer to the town center. Third, it has a Michelin listed restaurant on site.

And we were not disappointed by our choice. It is such a beautiful property, a fantastic example of neoclassical style architecture. The building was constructed in 1888 as a hunting lodge for the Austrian imperial family. And it was declared a National Heritage Site by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage. The Fasano, part of the Leading Hotels of the World, also underwent some renovations recently. So, we enjoyed among other things an updated guest room with a great lake view. If you should be interested in more information about this accommodation, I will provide some in a post to come.

3.3. Where to go a fine dining lover in Gardone Riviera

I already let you know that Grand Hotel Fasano hosts a Michelin listed restaurant. It is about Restaurant Il Fagiano, helmed by a Michelin one-star chef.

But there is more around for gourmets! If you are a hard-core foodie, try to get a booking at Restaurant Lido 84.

This beautifully located restaurant right on the lake has a Michelin star plus it ranks No 7 on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

And there are two more Michelin restaurants in this picturesque lakeside town. On the one hand, you find here Restaurant Fiordaliso at the Hotel of the same name. Again, it has this stunning location at the water’s edge.

On the other hand, Gardone Riviera’s scenic old town also features an awarded dining-spot. It is about Osteria Antico Brolo in a rustic 18th century building.

All the restaurants I just mentioned can be reached by foot from Grand Hotel Fasano. While Restaurant Lido 84 and Restaurant Fiordaliso are very close, Osteria Antico Brolo is a bit further away, you get here in about a 15 minute walk. You will find out about how it is dining at all these four dining spots in a future post, along with the lodging experience at Grand Hotel Fasano.

4. Glion above Montreux on Lake Geneva

4.1. About Glion/Montreux & where to stay here in style

I will not go into details here as I have already informed about this topic in a previous post. If you want to know more about the Lake Geneva region, especially about the Montreux Riviera and Lausanne, have a look here. As far as our lodging in Glion is concerned, we returned to one we already had stayed at back in 2021. Find here the hotel review of Hotel and Restaurant Victoria.

4.2. Michelin starred dining in Montreux area

In addition to dining at the hotel restaurant again (see above), we tried out two more dining-spots. Both of them are awarded with a Michelin star. It is about one in Glion itself, the other in another village above Montreux. The first is Restaurant Le Pont de Brent in Brent (UPADATE: out of business in November 2023).

You can reach it in a ten-minute drive (best by taxi or Uber) from Hotel Victoria. The other is Maison Décotterd, only a few minutes away by foot from this accommdation.

A post to follow will give you an impression of how it is dining at these two gourmet temples.

What is next about north Italy & west Switzerland

I already let you know, I do not want to leave it at the itinerary and some short remarks as to our north Italy & west Switzerland 14 day-trip in style. I want to delve deeper and let you know how it was in every single place. The start makes the Merano area, followed by the Sarentino valley, both in the South Tyrol. I continue with the Lake Garda region, and this with the southwestern part, also called Lemon Riviera (hotel/restaurants). And the end sets an area in western Switzerland. And this is Montreux on Lake Geneva.

After having made the one or two bits of information on the respective places in general (what to expect as a traveler here), I will not offer more details in this regard. Instead, I will put a focus on the upscale hotels we stayed and the Michelin restaurants we dined. Actually, all the dining spots we visited on this journey through north Italy and west Switzerland are listed in the Michelin Guide except one (Restaurant Victoria Glion). Six of them even are Michelin-starred, that means we “collected” eight Michelin stars in total!

I will publish a post for each place. Consequently, there will be following four more blogposts on this topic:

• Hotel Castel in Tirolo/South Tyrol with two-star Michelin Restaurant Castel Fine Dining,
• Hotel Terra in the Sarentino valley/South Tyrol with two-star Michelin Restaurant Terra,
• Grand Hotel Fasano in Gardone Riviera/Lake Garda with Michelin starred Restaurant Il Fagiano plus three more foodie spots in town,
• two one-star Michelin restaurants in Montreux/Lake Geneva

Other similar itineraries

In case you should be interested in other similar itineraries than this current one about northwest Italy and southeast France, here are more:

• Northern Italy & southern France in style, a 11-day road trip itinerary
• 11 days on the road in the Piedmont & west Switzerland in luxury

Date of stay: September 2023

Pin it for later

The post North Italy & west Switzerland in style, a 14-day road trip itinerary first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post North Italy & west Switzerland in style, a 14-day road trip itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Last but not least in my mini-series about Mallorca, some info about where to go for staying and dining in style in Palma de Mallorca, the island’s capital. This after I reported on luxury hotels and (Michelin) restaurants in three other spots on the Balearics’ biggest island. The start was an a look at Mallorca’s tourism gone amok. This was followed by a 15-day itinerary pointing out high-end lodging in four different places. To each and every spot, I provided details, beginning with the southwest, continuing with the north and the northeast and ending with Palma in this post.

Before plunging in medias res, some lines to Palma, Mallorca’s capital.

Palma de Mallorca, the island’s capital 

Whereas it might be a good idea to give an island’s capital a pass in other places, this is definitely not the case for Palma de Mallorca.

While Palma’s old town was once a no-go zone, it has been spruced up in recent years and has become a tourist attraction.

Now, it truly is an atmospheric place where winding alleys are lined with mansions adorned with wrought iron balconies. And the whole is dominated by the colossal cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Palma is not only worth going to because of its sights, but also has an impressive offer for discerning travelers. This both in terms of high-end lodging and gourmet dining.

Luxury hotel & Michelin restaurant scene in Palma

Palma de Mallorca’s top-tier luxury hotels and superlative gastronomy are a real draw. You are spoilt for choice when coming here as lover of fine accommodation and dining.

I, for myself, took a practical approach to where to stay in Palma. When doing research about the most sophisticated hotel of our Mallorca trip, Castell Son Claret (my post), I made an interesting discovery. This accommodation used to host the former one and only two-star Michelin establishment on the island, Restaurant Zaranda.

In the meantime, the dining spot moved to Palma, and this to a recently opened luxury hotel in Palma’s old town, Hotel Es Princep. This was reason enough for me to stay here – as I absolutely wanted to dine at Zaranda. And the hotel reviews were favorable too. Plus, my husband and I had only two nights to spend in Palma. So, we made it easy for us, two in one.

High-end hotels in Palma

As I explained before, Hotel Es Princep was the perfect choice for us in Palma (details on the accommodation follow below). Yet I came across a handful of other luxury hotels that seemed appealing. Check out the following ones in case you care for staying in style in Mallorca’s capital:

• San Francesc Hotel Singular
• El Llorenc Parc de la Mar
• Can Bordoy Grand House & Garden
• Palacio Can Marques

Michelin fine dining spots in Palma

Once again, I had made the decision where to dine in Palma – we had something to celebrate – before doing a more elaborate research on Michelin fine dining in Palma. But this “duty” was not cancelled, just postponed. And when I finally managed to have a more thorough look at the island’s capital, I was astonished to learn that there is a myriad of foodie hotspots in town. And that made it not easy for me to choose a restaurant for our second dinner. We finally opted for the one-star Michelin Adrián Quetglas

(more about it later on). But there are many more venues that might be good choices:

• Marc Fosh: modern cuisine, one-star Michelin
• La Vieja Palma: regional cuisine/tapas, Michelin listed
• Quadrat: modern cuisine, Michelin listed, at San Francesc Hotel Singular
• Sumaq: Peruvian cuisine, Michelin listed
• DINS Santi Taura: modern cuisine, one-star Michelin, at Hotel El Llorenc Parc de la Mar
• Stagier Bar: modern cuisine, Michelin listed

Our choice of staying and dining in style in Palma 

As outlined above, I had established a favorite for a Michelin starred fine dining experience pretty fast. And when I found out later that it was located at a luxury hotel, we booked a room here as well.

Staying in style in Palma de Mallorca at Hotel Es Princep

As you know by know, my husband and I decided to lodge at Hotel Es Princep for our Palma stay. Find some information about it in the following.

Location

It is situated at the edge of Palma’s old town, in a quiet corner not far from the capital’s famous cathedral (a bit more than 10 minutes by foot). The area dates back to before the Romans. The narrow winding cobblestone streets behind the hotel have not changed much over the centuries.

Es Princep is just by the old city walls that have been restored recently. In addition, you can overlook the Bay of Palma from here.

An another plus is that the airport is only ten minutes away by car. And if you want to go to the beach, the nearest one is less than 15 minutes by foot away.

Ambiance/Staff

Although Es Princep is a new hotel (it was opened in 2018), it has a historic relevance. It was built on a spot where a medieval tannery was located. Exposed excavations from it are preserved under glass at Restaurant Zaranda

(see below).

Otherwise the hotel has an uncomplicated urban feel. It is chic, airy and lively. The ambiance in the spacious open-plan lobby/restaurant area is always busy. Staff is friendly, helpful and accommodative. And it is a member of the prestigious The Leading Hotels of the World.

Rooms/Pricing

The hotel has 68 rooms in different categories, most of them with sea view and some with small balconies. Rates start at 240€ (low season). The accommodations are of clean-lined elegance, the decor kept in natural hues.

As my husband and I had a special occasion, we had opted for the best room category, the Signature Suite Sea View. These accommodations are large (55 sqm), feature a bedroom with a bath tub

and a separate sizable living-room.

The only thing I disliked was the rather small bathroom with impractical doors.

On our stay in mid April this suite was competitively priced (657€ including breakfast).

Other facilities

Onsite you find two restaurants, the signature Michelin-starred restaurant Zaranda (see below) and an all-day dining spot just by the lobby. There are two bars, Gremium

on the ground level and a Rooftop Bar. Apropos roof, it is one of the old town biggest,

with a pool and fabulous views of sea and cathedral.

And of course there is a spa too, with a second pool.

After this info to staying in style in Palma, here are details to two culinary hotspots in town.

Dining in style in Palma de Mallorca

As mentioned, we had booked at Hotel El Princep’s signature restaurant, Zaranda, and a further fine dining restaurant, Adrián Quetglas. Here is how it was.

1. Restaurant Zaranda (1 star Michelin, Hotel Es Princep)

As chef Fernando Pérez Arellano fell out with his former host (Klaus-Michael Kuehne at Hotel Castell Son Claret) – where he had received two Michelin stars in 2016 – he needed a new one. After a year of searching, he finally found a home for his Zaranda (means sieve), and this at Hotel Es Princep in Palma. He started in August 2022 and within three months he regained one of his two Michelin stars.

The born “Madrileño” knows how to present himself and his cuisine. Dining at Zaranda is not a simple affair but an immersive experience. 14 chefs are at work here in an open kitchen where you can watch all the action throughout the day.

And if you make a reservation here, you are in for dining in three different locations. This when going for the Dermis Second Skin Menu (145€) or the Epidermis Collagens (165€). You may also choose the Hypodermis Essentials (125€), where you can devour the chef’s “evergreen” dishes (in bar and dining room). The former menus are more on the “adventurous” side with newer creations (especially Epidermis). You get the snacks at the bar,

the prelude at the open kitchen’s bar (the chef himself prepares food in front of you)

and the main act in the dining room.

My husband and I opted for the the whole she-bang. It was one hell of a ride, a feast for all the senses!

In case you are wondering about the somewhat extraordinary menu labelings, they are not without reason. Fernando Pérez Arellano’s menus are based on the history of his new location, the Roman ruins of Palma’s former tanners’ quarter. Skin is present in his creations all the time. And he really managed to integrate this theme in a way that amazes you.

2. Restaurant Adrián Quetglas (Michelin)

UPDATE: Michelin listed since November 2024

While I was still a bit overwhelmed by the extraordinary dining experience at Restaurant Zaranda from the previous day, I was looking forward to a “more mundane” dinner. Though, this is admittedly ot the accurate expression for dining at Adrián Quetglas. His cuisine may be more down to earth yet it is also on a high level.

The chef was born in Buenos Aires. When he was  a teenager, his family moved to Mallorca (his father comes from here). In his professional career, he also worked with Marc Fosh, the famous local chef – and his friend. Later on he was lured abroad. After ten long years in Russia, Adrián Quetglas returned to Mallorca in 2015.

His mission is it “to democratize haute cuisine”. So, he serves high-end food at affordable prices. On offer is market cuisine, and he combines tradition with avantgarde. When having dinner here, there is no choice, you get the seven-course tasting menu “only”. Though, it is very reasonably priced, at 75€. On our visit, you could replace the main course (pork) with pigeon (additional charge of 8€) or add a cheese course (plus 14€).

I liked what I got and felt well at ease in the restaurant’s relaxed setting. Service was hospitable, warm and efficient. We enjoyed our evening at Adrián Quetglas. And I find it nice that he pursues a “democratization approach” as to gourmet cuisine!

Looking back at my Mallorca posts

My first trip ever to Mallorca brought me to four different places on this Balearic Island, the southwest, the north, the northeast and Palma, the capital. Here on this blog, I let you know about where to go for staying and dining in style in each of these parts. And this very post was about Palma de Mallorca, my last stop on the island and also my last blogpost about this island in the Mediterranean Sea. A 15-day itinerary preceded this detail reports. And the beginning made an insight into Mallorca’s (excessive) tourism.

Date of stay: April 2022

Pin it for later

The post Staying & dining in style in PALMA DE MALLORCA/Spain first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Staying & dining in style in PALMA DE MALLORCA/Spain appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Mallorca’s southwest, around Es Capdellà

I am almost certain that most travelers to Mallorca, even regulars, will not know Es Capdellà. It is a peaceful village located inland at the foot of the Tramuntana mountains. From Palma you head west and reach this small town in about half an hour by car. The major attraction here is the beauty of unspoiled nature. The nearest tourist spots from Es Capdellà are Peguera (10 minutes by car), Portal Nous (16 minutes by car) and Port D’Andratx (18 minutes by car). The latter is a great place to go for having dinner in local restaurants.

Staying in style in Mallorca’s southwest at Hotel Castell Son Claret

If you look for a luxury hideaway in the southwest of Mallorca, then you cannot go wrong with Hotel Castell Son Claret. It is one of the finest accommodations not only in the area but on the whole island (member of The Leading Hotels of the World). No expense was spared – the owners are Christine and Klaus-Michael Kuehne – to make it the ultimate lodging for staying in style in Mallorca.

Location 

It is situated four minutes by car from Es Capadellà, in a remote location amidst beautiful nature. The property is one of the largest private ones in Mallorca (132 hectares/326 acres). There is a number of walks to make on the premises. The longest one took my husband and me one and a half hours to finish! And this in unspoiled countryside.

Ambiance/Staff

Castell Son Claret is an oasis of calm and serenity. There is all the space you need and room to breathe. Beauty is everywhere your eyes fall on, be it inside the lavish buildings from the 15th century or in the outside areas. As to the latter, I especially loved the large courtyard of Restaurant Sa Clastra

and the impressive 250-m/820 ft palm-lined entrance

that finds its continuation in a water course leading to the castle.

The staff goes above and beyond to make your stay perfect. Whenever we showed up in the reception area, they asked about our wellbeing and offered to get our rental car from the parking space. And this regardless of how many times we had declined this offer before. Also all the other staff we interacted with showed a gracious attitude.

Rooms/Pricing

Other facilities

Dining in style in Mallorca’s southwest

You do not have to go far to enjoy excellent food because Hotel Castell Son Claret features two great dining venues. If you look for a change and want to dine at local restaurants, then the Port d’Andratx area offers quite a choice. My husband and I checked out both dining-spots at our hotel and two at the mentioned coastal town.  Here is more about our dining experiences.

1. Sa Clastra (signature – Michelin – restaurant at Hotel Son Claret)

UPDATE: one Michelin star since November 2023

Castell Son Claret used to host a two-star Michelin restaurant, Zaranda. But then the owner and the chef had some disagreements. So the latter left and moved his dining-spot to Palma (read how it is in my post about Mallorca’s capital). The young Mallorcan sous-chef, Jordi Cantó, took over at Castell Son Claret’s signature place.

We had dinner at this elegant dining venue

twice – there is also a gorgeous courtyard for warmer seasons – , and we liked the chef’s refined cuisine. While not each and every dish was a “greatest hit,” some of them were truly exceptional. I especially liked Jordi Cantó’s take of “Brut” Rice, a Mallorcan staple (Arroz Brut).

This means “Dirty Rice” and it is some sort of rice casserole made with broth and loaded with meat and vegetables.

In terms of preparation and presentation, everything was done to perfection and nicely arranged. I found the snacks photogenic in particular. You got them assigned to the different parts of the Balearic Islands.

As to the flavor combinations, they did not always totally work for me. That was for example the case for the dish called “Marrow, Beef & Truffle” where I had trouble seeing the dish’s “inner connection”. Notwithstanding that, I am confident that Sa Clastra will get a Michelin star in the time to come. I only hope that the price level will not rise further because I considered it already quite high.

2. Olivera (restaurant at Hotel Son Claret)

The second restaurant at Hotel Son Claret offers fine cuisine as well. In a well-advised contrast to the high-end Sa Clastra, food is rather on the hearty yet healthy side. You have here quite a choice of Spanish-Mediterranean classics, immaculately prepared and presented.

The ambiance at this more down to earth dining venue is relaxed and pleasant. Several dining-rooms plus a wonderful outdoor area are at your disposal.

As in the signature restaurant, the pricing is upscale. But you can limit your expenses if you choose wisely as we did. We opted for croquettes

and Moroccan style slow roasted shoulder of lamb served with spiced couscous,

which were both formidable. For hotel guests there is also a half board option (three courses for 70€).

Olivera is also the place where you have breakfast as hotel guest, and this is really a big deal. The offerings were well put together, of high quality and nicely arranged.

Now to two recommended fine dining in the Port d’Andratx area.

I had also checked out such restaurants in the direction of Palma. But they were mostly located at hotels or were not that appealing. So we settled for the before mentioned region and were not disappointed.

3. Verico Port d’Andratx

This is an upscale Italian restaurant just by the yacht harbor. You enjoy here not only fabulous views but also fine cuisine with a twist in a pleasant ambiance.

Apart from a small à la carte menu there is a changing 4-course menu (53€). While my husband and I did not go for it, we noticed that quite a few guests – there seems to be many regulars – ordered it. And I had the impression that you get good value for money.

Verico is family-run, and they really know what they do. You feel here like in Italy, a charming maître d’ welcomes you and ushers you to your table. Here tasty Parmesan cheese, olive oil and fresh bread await you. And food was delicious, may it be the pasta

and the fish of the day

or the tiramisu,

one of several suggestions by the server. Portions are not large but sufficient, prices are moderate to high (choose the 4-course menu for a meal worth the cost). And the best here is – apart from the good food – the amiable service!

4. Oliu Andratx

Oliu is located on the premises of a former olive press on the main road between Andratx and Port d’Andratx. It is a nice property, the interiors are kept in a tasteful contemporary style. There is also a large outdoor area in a densely overgrown Mediterranean garden.

On offer here is modern Mediterranean cuisine. You can make your choice out of  a regularly changing à la carte menu, depending from what the nearby organic vegetable garden provides. Alternatively, you can opt for a degustation menu. I had foie gras pâté,

followed by sea bass,

which were both tasty. For dessert, I shared with my husband the house specialty, Oliu, that suits the building’s history. It was olive ice cream with chocolate and vanilla (good but filling).

The price level at Oliu is moderate (most mains are under 30€). Service is friendly and understated. You feel at ease here, food is fine and it is no wallet breaker.

Looking back and forward

My first Mallorca post was about its (excessive) tourism, followed by an overview of where to stay and dine in style on this Balearic Island. My husband and I made some sort of round trip where we stayed at four different luxury hotels and dined at upscale (Michelin) restaurants, both onsite and outside of our accommodation.

This very post made the start (southwest around Es Capdellà), three more will follow. They go into other Mallorca areas: north around Pollença,

northeast around Canyamel and southwest again, Palma, the island’s capital.

Date of stay: April 2022

Pin it for later

The post Staying & dining in style in the southwest of Mallorca/Spain first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Staying & dining in style in the SOUTHWEST of Mallorca/Spain appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

In my last post, I informed about Madeira as a travel destination. Now it is the turn of the luxury hotel landscape on this island in the North Atlantic. I will start with a short account of the beginnings of the hotel industry here. In a second step, there will be an overview of recommended luxury hotels in Madeira. Separate blogposts will cover how it is staying and dining in style at two upscale Madeira accommodations (Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at the Cliff Bay). And to close, yet another post will be about where to head for (Michelin) fine dining on the island (inside and outside of hotels).

Development of Madeira’s luxury hotel industry

How it all started

As I outlined in my post about everything you have to know when traveling to Madeira, this island has a long history of tourism. While it started with therapeutic tourism in the 19th century, it soon became popular for its beautiful scenery and its mild, semi-tropical climate. The latter fact even made it to a year-round destination. In contrast to other destinations in the North Atlantic (Canary Islands), it is not your typical place for beach vacations. Due to the lack of sandy beaches and stable weather conditions it is rather ideal for active travel. Having said that, lounging poolside and seaside is an option here, too. After all, there is a pleasant climate all year round, albeit it is sometimes on the capricious side.

Madeira’s first luxury hotel

The first luxury hotel on the island of Madeira was the Reid’s Palace, set on cliff tops in subtropical gardens overlooking the Atlantic Ocean (my review). This legendary luxury hotel was built by the Scotsman William Reid, who made his fortune in the Madeiran wine trade. It was opened in 1891, shortly after his death, by his two sons. Most of its visitors at the time belonged to the wealthy European – and particularly the British – aristocracy.

What was next

On the back of William Reid’s success, several other hotels followed. Yet beds were still limited until the opening of the airport in 1963. Another grand dame here was the Savoy Classic. It was built in 1912 and was especially frequented by British aristocrats, too. While the Reid’s Palace was able to survive, this was not the case for the Savoy Classic. It became a relic of the past and was torn down in 2008.

For a long time, Madeirans relied on elite tourism. This resulted in a high number of four- and five-star establishments until the 1970s. From then on, the number of hotels catering to middle-classes visitor increased. And the island developed to a highly popular tourist destination. In 2019, there were roughly eight million overnight stays by visitors. The most important countries of origin are the United Kingdom, Germany and France. And Madeira largely escaped mass tourism because people come here not primarily for sea, sun and sand.

Current luxury hotel situation in Madeira

When looking for a five-star hotel around Madeira’s capital of Funchal, you are overwhelmed by the choice. There are more than twenty of them. At a closer inspection, it becomes clear that not all of them will meet the requirements of  a demanding clientele.

In my opinion, quite a few of the five-star establishments on the island do not deserve this classification. The ones in question do not look like luxury hotels and they are not priced accordingly either. To be precise, they are neither luxurious enough nor as pricey as you would expect. In fact, you can reside at a five-star here for a bargain rate.

Nevertheless, there is a number of luxury hotels in Madeira which deliver what they promise. And which will please to discerning guests, as well. I will go into them in the section after next. First, I will give an overview of available five-star hotels on the island.

Overview of luxury hotels in Madeira

First, an introductory remark to hotel names in Madeira. Some accommodations come with the byname of quinta. This is a former mansion that has been converted in a boutique hotel. So, it actually is a historic property. And these quintas are often a bit away from the sea, mostly in the hill tops.

Further it is to be noted that many accommodations in Funchal – not only five-star establishments – are located in a special area. It is called hotel zone and is west from Praça do Infante. You find here concrete palaces and high-rise buildings that grow into the sky. The reason for this – not very attractive – building style is the lack of space. Hotels are usually meant to be as close to the sea as possible. And in Madeira the space between the rocky coast and the mountains framing the bay is limited.

Worth mentioning is also the fact that there is not a single international hotel chain present in Madeira. Sheraton and Holiday Inn used to be here in the 1970s, but not for a long time. Instead, you find on the island – among others – the Pestana brand. This is Portugal’s largest hotel group. There are four Pestana five-star accommodations in Madeira. Furthermore, you find several “quinta hotels” in the luxury segment. And the Spanish hotel group Melia is present, as well (one five-star).

Now I come to those luxury hotels in Funchal and surroundings that I personally consider as “good to go”. These are such ones that offer a true five-star experience and come with good reviews, too (at least 4.5 with TripAdvisor and 9.0 with Booking.com).

“Good to go” luxury hotels in and around Funchal

I start with the ones I have already been resp. their sister hotels. This will be followed by a (short) list of other accommodations that I think will also deliver in terms of being “really luxurious”. Please note that this assessment is solely based on my personal opinion. I do not want to rule out the possibility that there are more of them.

1. Reid’s Palace, a Belmond Hotel (stay in 2021)

Madeira’s grand old dame is still one of the best options to stay in style on the island. And it is probably the most expensive one, at least if you go for a reasonably sized room. Come here if you want to immerse in a long gone era of grandeur, history and glamour. You can still get the feeling how it was in the late 1800s! And its location is unrivaled, dramatically perched on a rugged cliff. The sea is close – just walk down the steps to the sea deck – and the same is true for Funchal’s town center (22 minutes by foot).

Find a detailed review of my recent stay here on my blog soon.

2. Les Suites at The Cliff Bay, PortoBay (stay in 2021)

This new addition to The Cliff Bay (see below) was opened in 2019. You find here suites only, all of them spacious and modernly designed. And there are only 23 of them, most of them in the new wing. Two 100-year-old mansions are also part of the property. As to its location, Les Suites at The Cliff Bay is between The Cliff Bay and the Reid’s Palace, on a cliff top and in walking distance to Funchal’s core (25 minutes).

In case you want to know more about this luxury hotel, one of my next blogposts will go into it.

3. The Cliff Bay, Porto Bay (stay in sister hotel 2021)

Although I have not resided at The Cliff Bay itself, I was able to have a close look at it on my recent stay at its sister hotel Les Suites at Cliff Bay. While this of course did not include the guest rooms, this should be no issue as they all got a new look in 2021. Apropos look, the building’s aesthetics might not be state-of-the-art, as its opening dates back to 1994. Yet it persuades with a top setting on a promontory with sea access and a closeness to the town center of Funchal (28 minutes by foot).

There will be no separate hotel review of this hotel as I have not actually stayed here. Nonetheless, you will find some information about it in my post about Les Suites at Cliff Bay, to be published soon on this blog.

4. Quinta da Casa Branca (stay in 2007)

I stayed here back in 2007 on my first trip to Madeira. At the time, my husband and I together with our teenage son had a great time at this hotel, comprised of a new wing along a historic manor house. And to my amazement, it is still considered to be a top address when looking for staying in style on this island.

Quinta da Casa Branca was opened in 1998. In 2002, a new wing was added – our choice for lodging in 2007 – , which made it Madeira’s first design hotel. And apparently, these accommodations have been refurbished recently. The ones in the manor house are kept in an antique style. The hotel’s best asset is its setting in beautiful botanical gardens, set back from the road.

In terms of location, it is in the immediate neighborhood of the Reid’s Palace and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay. In contrast to them, the Quinta da Casa Branca is on the other side of the road, so there is no sea view to speak of here – and no sea access either. To reach Funchal’s downtown, you need about 26 minutes by foot.

5. Other seemingly “good to go” luxury hotels in Madeira

From what I read and heard, the Savoy Hotels & Resorts promise a genuinely luxurious hotel experience, too. As to five-star establishments, there are three of them in Madeira.

First of all, there is the new Savoy Palace that replaced the Savoy Classic (torn down in 2008). It was opened in 2019 – after some hiccups before its erection. It is the island’s largest hotel, shaped like an undulating wave. And this modern accommodation is the first in Madeira that became a member of the prestigious The Leading Hotels of the World. While it is not directly by the sea, it offers ocean views thanks to its hill setting. And it is favorably located near Funchal’s center (16 minutes by foot).

Next there is the Royal Savoy, opened in the early 2000s. You cannot claim that it is an architectural gem. But what it lacks in style, it makes up with its seaside location and its closeness to Funchal’s core (19 minutes by foot). And Royal Savoy’s guest rooms seem to be in a good shape (newly renovated).

Last on the list is the Savoy Saccharum in the coastal town of Calheta in the west of Madeira. This newly built hotel opened in 2015 on the site of a former sugar cane mill – hence the name. It is a large, contemporary construction, well integrated with the surrounding landscape. The hotel is located seaside – separated by a road – , 38 minutes by car from Funchal’s center.

Looking back and forward

My last post was about all the essential information on Madeira when traveling to this island off the western African coast. The current one went into which luxury hotels in Madeira to choose for (truly) staying in style. In the time to come, there will be reviews of two of the best high-end accommodations, the Reid’s Palace (my review) and Les Suites at The Cliff Bay (my review).

And to end this mini-series, I will inform about where to go for (Michelin) fine dining in this “flower paradise”.

Date of stay: November 2021

Pin it for later

The post Where to stay in style in Funchal/Madeira off the western African coast first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Where to stay in style in Funchal/Madeira off the western African coast appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Staying and dining in style on the French Riviera usually comes with a hefty price tag. This is especially true for beachfront hotels. As my husband and I were not ready to pay the excessive prices they ask for in this area, we settled on a luxury hotel a bit away from the sea on our recent Italy/France trip. And this was Château Saint-Martin in the hilltops of Nice resp. Antibes. It has a Michelin starred restaurant and sea views, although from far away. Last but not least, Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills is also a historic property that goes back to the 1150s!

Before coming to how it is staying and dining in style in the hilltops of the Côte d’Azur, here a wrap-up of the recent journey we did in northern Italy and southern France.

North Italy and south France 11-day itinerary

Piedmont in northern Italy was the first destination. The start made Lake Orta (my hotel post, my activities post), adjacent to  Switzerland. Then it went to Alba, where you find one of Italy’s famous wine regions (where to stay, what to do). Next was the Italian Riviera around Alassio (my hotel post, my activities post), our first stay on the sea

since two years – due to Corona. And from here, it is not far to the French Riviera, where we went inland a bit. First, to the French Riviera hills near Nice resp. Antibes (hotel/two walks), then to the Provence, in the immediate neighborhood of Les Baux-de-Provence. On our way back to Switzerland, we made one more stop south of Lyon.

Everywhere we went, we opted for luxury hotels and Michelin restaurants. But we did only so in case they are worth the price tag.

Staying in style at Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills

Location

Château Saint-Martin is located in the hinterland of Nice resp. Antibes. I think calling this area the French Riviera hills is quite appropriate.

From the mentioned cities on the coast, you can reach it in about 25 minutes by car. If you want to come here by using public transport, it is an option. You need about about 45 minutes to an hour, taking the train first to Cagnes-sur-Mer and then changing to the bus.

The luxury Château towers high above the medieval town of Vence.

This is a really pretty place that deserves a visit from the coast. Its old town, complete with walls, is atmospheric yet untouristy. Meandering trough its picturesque alleys is a great thing to do.

History of Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills

Château Saint-Martin in the French Rivera hills was built as a castle for the Templar commandery back in the 1100s. Later on, in the 1900s, a Polish count bought the domain in ruins and rebuilt it. You still find traces of the original ruins onsite, which are listed as monument in the the French historical register.

The Château found a new owner, a Parisian businessman, in 1935. Some twenty years later, he turned it into a hotel. In 1994, the hotel passed into the hands of the Oetker family and is now a part of the prestigious Oetker Collection.

If you wonder about the Oetker family and their hotel group, a few lines about this topic follow right now.

Oetker Collection

The Oetker Group is one of the largest family-run businesses in Germany. They got rich in the food industry. Their Oetker Collection hotel group was established in 2008. At the time, they already owned a handful of luxury hotels. It all began in 1941, when a member of the family purchased the Brenners Park-Hotel in Baden-Baden/Germany. Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Cap d’Antibes joined it in 1969. The third one was Le Bristol in Paris, in 1978. And next was Château Saint-Martin in 1994.

Nowadays, the Oetker Collection counts seven more hotels. The newest additions are The Woodward in Geneva (2020) and Hotel La Palma in Capri (2021).

Ambiance/Staff

The property is huge, sprawling on 14 hectares/34 acres, especially if you consider its hilltop location.

As a consequence, there is lots of space so that guests should not get in each other’s way. Château Saint-Martin in the French Rivera hills is a member of the renowned The Leading Hotels of the World and therefore a magnet for English spoken travelers. And there were many of them on our stay. I do not think that we met any guests coming from France. That was a bit of a pity because I think that the absence of locals at a hotel make it some kind of interchangeable. In such a way, it could be anywhere in the world.

Staff was friendly, attentive and professional at all times. The standard of service never failed to impress. The only thing I disliked was the fact that we were almost always addressed in Englisch although my husband and I can speak French. Some of the staff remembered it, others did not. But otherwise there is nothing to criticize.

Rooms/Pricing at Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills

46 rooms are available, and you can choose out of ten categories. The range goes from a Deluxe Room (25-30 sqm) to a Three Bedroom Villa (155 sqm). If you care for a sea view, you have to opt from a Superior Junior Suite upwards.

Prices start from about 460 €/US$ (without breakfast). And the hotel is open in the summer season only.

In the following a few details to our choice of room, a Superior Junior Suite.

Superior Junior Suite

We went for a Superior Junior Suite as we wanted to have sea views. And the room did not disappoint in this regard. Not only could we view the Mediterranean Sea – from far away – but also the town of Vence.

Yet the room was convincing in every other aspect. It was spacious (40 – 45 sqm), nicely furnished in a contemporary design, featuring a living area

and a sizable bathroom.

In terms of rates, you can either choose the best available rate (without breakfast) or the half board rate. The latter includes the breakfast plus a three-course menu dinner at the Michelin starred Restaurant Le Saint-Martin. As I am fan of half board arrangements – so you are not tempted to have a tasting menu at any evening of your vacation – , we booked this option. That did cost us 1,160 €/US$ per day. This is of course far away from being a bargain. However, if you compare this rate to the prices you have to pay at upscale Côte d’Azur beach front establishments, it seems very competitive.

Facilities at Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills

The facilities here are top notch. Four restaurants are onsite, two of them are outdoor ones, therefore only weather permitting. Le Saint-Martin is the signature dining-spot amongst them. Find details about dining here in the separate section below. Le Rossini

is the place for cocktails and afternoon tea. L’Oliveraie is an outdoor lunch spot offering grilled meat and fish along with pizzas, teppanyaki plates and salads. The Pool Bar serves drinks and is also open for pre-dinner cocktails, again if the weather permits it.

The spa, including fitness facilities and a boutique, seems to be first-rate – we did not use it – , it was voted as “Best luxury spa destination in Europe”. They partner with La Prairie. Then, there is a garden for a quick stroll complete with a large infinity pool

and two tennis courts. Also a kids club (outdoor) is on the premises. Finally, Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills exhibits art, too. In 2021 and 2022, it is about works of Manolo Valdés.

Activities in the French Riviera

In terms of activities in the area, you can book tours to cycle or walk the French Riviera at the hotel. They come with picnic lunch or snack, prepared by the Michelin starred chef. A walking tour guided by him is an option, too. That all sounds promising, however be prepared to fork out some cash.

If you like walking and exploring, I have two suggestions for the area – which are free. While one of them starts directly at hotel and leads to one to the most visited villages in the area,

the other is a tour along the Mediterranean Sea.

Come back later and check out my post about what to do on the French Rivera, soon on my blog.

Speaking of walking, you can reach Vence, the beautiful town at your feet, by foot, too.

There is a path about 150 m/490 ft from the hotel. Turn right at the entrance and you can access it on your right (well hidden) when reaching a small strip of forest. It is a hiking trail first, then you have to cross Avenue des Templiers to reach Chemin du Riou. Here you turn right into Chemin Saint-Martin until you come to Avenue du Maréchal Joffre. Turn left and walk to the next crossing. Turn right and cross the bridge. From here there are signposts for the town center. You need about 20 minutes to reach it from the hotel. The way back is considerably more strenuous, up a steep hill, count in about 30 minutes. One more remark, it would astonish me if many guests at Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills took this path. The typical clientele look as they are used to being chauffeured around.

Dining in style at Le Saint-Martin, one-star Michelin restaurant

Before coming to the dinner experience at Restaurant Le Saint-Martin, a brief introduction of the Michelin starred chef.

Chef at Le Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills

Jean-Luc Lefrançois is a very experienced chef, and he seems to be fond of working in high-end hotels. After 30 years at renown Parisian establishments just as the Ritz or the Bristol

he has been in charge in the French Riviera hills since 2015. And he has a “winter job” as well because the hotel is only open during summer. He does so at L’Apogée Courchevel, a mountain resort in the French Alps, also part of the Oetker Collection.

At Le Saint-Martin he offers a southern-oriented, Mediterranean cuisine. He cooks seasonally and sources from the region. For his creations he uses summer vegetables just as olives, zucchini or tomatoes. His signature dish is seabass, pistachio crusted, accompanied by olive polenta. Jean-Luc Lefrançois especially likes preparing carrots, in any color, and his preferred herb is basil.

And as a very sporty man – he does ultra marathons in summer and ski tours in winter – his favorite food is rice, according to his statements, he could live on it.

Quite astonishing, his preferences, aren’t they? Quite frugal for such a decorated chef … But now to the restaurant and the food you get at the chateau.

Restaurant Le Saint-Martin

You should hope for a warm summer evening when dining at Le Saint-Martin at Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills. In this case, you can sit on the beautiful terrace boasting sweeping views of the countryside and the Mediterranean Sea.

Yet also the interiors are a good spot for dining in style, they seem to have received a stylish makeover recently.

In terms of menus, there is either an à la carte option or – if you are on half board as we were – the Menu du Marché. The later entitles you not only to a fabulous breakfast – the cakes are fantastic – , but also to choose three courses from a daily changing menu. Find in the following what you get and how it was.

Menu du Marché

On our stay, we could make a choice out of two starters (fish or vegetarian), two main courses (fish or poultry) and two desserts. And if you feel like having cheese,

this is possible of course  – and highly recommended, from the excellent cheese trolley (for additional costs).

In terms of starters, we had the ones with raw fish on both days and they were superb! On day one, it was sea bream as sashimi with citrus fruit jelly, cucumber and raspberry.

The following day, we indulged in salmon as tartare in unison with citrus fruits, crispy Japanese pearl and horseradish.

As to main courses, on one day, we decided on scorpion fish accompanied by chickpea fries, candied lemon and zucchini with rosemary.

The other day, the quail sounded so tempting that we could not help but ordering it. And it was totally worth it! The chef served it roasted with curry combined with melting potatoes and Nice-style vegetables.

And when it came to desserts, I had troubles to make a choice both times. I would have loved to try all the four sweet delicacies that were proposed to us. While one one occasion my husband had the vanilla cheesecake made out of four spices shortbread, passion cream, exotic coulis and fresh mango, I went for the strawberry pavlova.

This was an artwork of meringue, vanilla cream, strawberry coulis and strawberry sorbet. It was divine! The next day, we both ordered the panna cotta, which was sublime, again. It was an original vanilla version with basil poached strawberries and a strawberry sorbet.

I could not be happier with our dinner experience at Le Saint-Martin! The chef’s style suited me perfectly. He knows what he does! All his creations were well composed, big on flavor, carefully prepared and presented. Do not expect experimental cuisine here but extremely well made Mediterranean food, expertly crafted with the necessary refined touch. The one-star Michelin award for this restaurant is well deserved!

Overall Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills

If you want to stay at a high-end hotel on the French Riviera but consider the seafront properties as way too expensive, then Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills is the perfect choice. It offers everything discerning guests look for and even features a one-star Michelin restaurant. While this luxury lodging is not exactly a bargain, its pricing is competitive compared to others in the area and given the quality. The accommodation is located in the French Riviera hills and offers sea views (from far away)

and you can reach the coast in less than half an hour by car. And the countryside here is beautiful with many interesting spots to visit. Soon on my blog you will find some (walking) activities in south France.

Looking back and forward

On a 11-day trip through north Italy and south France, the stay at Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills was the first of three stops in France. Another one in the Provence

and one south of Lyon were to follow. Behind us at that point, there were a halt on the Italian Rivera and two in Piedmont. On the whole journey we made sure that we traveled and dined in style whenever it was possible, and we got value for money. That means luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine dining, which are not priced excessively.

Date of stay: September 2021

Pin it for later

The post Staying & dining in style at Château Saint-Martin in the French Riviera hills first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Staying & dining in style at Château Saint-Martin in Vence in the French Riviera hills appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

I have hardly ever experienced a hotel with such a beautiful location! Hotel Relais San Maurizio Piedmont is set on a hill near Alba in one of Italy’s most famous wine regions. From here you have a 360-degree panoramic view of the surrounding vineyards that is second to none! Gazing at these rolling hills, covered with vines, is such a relaxing thing to do! But there is more. On site, you find a five-star hotel with magnificent amenities, amongst others a one-star Michelin restaurant. And it is a historic property, a former monastery from the year 1619, renovated in the early 2000s. Plus there is a sprawling park with old-growth trees.

Before coming to how it is staying and dining at Hotel Relais San Maurizio Piedmont, first a few sentences to the journey through northern Italy and southern France my husband and I did in late summer. Here in the Piedmont region near Alba was our second stop.

Travel itinerary northern Italy & southern France

Coming from our home country Switzerland, we began our 11-day trip on the edge of Piedmont region, on Lake Orta. More precisely, we were in Orta San Giulio, not far from the Swiss border. Check out our choice of hotel here, Hotel Villa Crespi, and what to do in the area. After our stay at Relais San Maurizio Piedmont (my post, activities) we set off for the Mediterranen Sea. Here we opted for Alassio (hotel, what to do), close to the French border. Then we left Italy behind us for two more halts in the south of France (French Riviera hills – hotel, what to do – and Provence) before returning home via a stop south of Lyon.

As to our travel style, my husband and I love to stay and to dine in luxury. However, we do not pay excessive prices. And we are into exploring by walking, yet we prefer them to be enjoyable, i.e. not too strenous. As far as our Italy and France trip is concerned, here is my overview post with the itinerary.

Staying in style at Relais San Maurizio Piedmont, north Italy

Location

I have already provided some information about the location in the introduction. Here is some more. When coming from Alba by car, the road to Relais San Maurizio Piedmont becomes narrow and winding soon after leaving the highway. And at the same time, the landscape is getting more and more beautiful. After about a 30-minute drive you reach the resort that is remotely situated about eight minutes from Santo Stefano Belbo, the next bigger town. If you want to travel to the hotel by train or bus, these are no viable options.

It is hard not to be impressed by the beauty of Relais San Maurizio Piedmont’s setting at the top of a hill. When you look around, there are vineyards wherever your eyes fall. You are here in the Langhe, a hilly area in the provinces of Cuneo and Asti. It is famous of course for its wines but also for cheeses and truffles, in particular the white truffles of Alba. A part of the Langhe is on the UNESCO World Heritage list, too. And this for its cultural landscape, an uninterrupted system of hills with the best grapevines and wines. Think in this context of names just as Barolo, Moscato, Barbaresco and Barbera. As to Relais San Maurizio Piedmont, it is located in the Moscato vineyards.

History of Relais San Maurizio Piedmont

You already know by now that Relais San Maurizio Piedmont used to be a Cistercian monastery from the year 1619. It was built on the ruins of a century old chapel. In 1862, it became the private home for a noble family from the area.

In the late 1990s, Pier Domenico Gallo, a banker and financier, born in nearby Cossano Belbo, made an investment in his native land that he loves so much. He acquired the estate and converted it into an accommodation of excellence. In 2002, it opened its doors and became the first Relais & Château hotel in Piedmont. In the meantime, it changed to a membership with The Leading Hotels of the World instead.

Ambiance/Staff

Although there are only 36 rooms on site, it felt to me like a fairly large hotel. This is probably due to its considerable size and the fact that there is quite a number of different buildings. Most of them are historic ones. It is a spectacular estate indeed!

Although the staff here was friendly and helpful, it was also somewhat impersonal. In this context, the welcome upon our arrival at Relais Maurizio Piedmont was telling. A young gentleman, who was polite but not exactly warm, did the check-in. And this made a rather business like impression on me. We felt like being in a Hilton Hotel or so. Also the staff at the Restaurant Origini Bistrot showed such an attitude. However, the service at the Michelin starred Restaurant Guido da Costigliole was more amiable.

The owner, who lives on site, came across as a friendly person. We met him and his wife several times on our stay, either at dinner or breakfast. And we also made acquaintance with the resident dog, who was old and docile.

One more thing has to be said. The clientele here is rather international. There were lots of English speaking guests and few Italian ones. I think this might be due to the fact that Relais San Maurizio is a member of The Leading Hotels of the World.

Rooms/Pricing at Relais San Maurizio Piedmont

You can make your choice out of 30 Monastery Rooms in the 15th century property that include the monk cells, the sacristy and the stables. Elegant furnishings go hand in hand here with architectural elements from the original construction. These might be antique fireplaces, vaulted ceilings or inlaid wood floors. And what I find helpful, all the rooms, which are different from each other, are depicted on the website. They even state the correspondent room numbers. There are three room categories in the Monastery part: Monastery Rooms (24-48 sqm), Superior Rooms (30-58 sqm) and Monastery Suites (45-80 sqm).

In addition, you find six luxury suites in the Villa San Luigi on the top of the hill of San Maurizio. This is an 18th century farmhouse that was updated in 2013.

The accommodations are luxuriously appointed – and this is reflected in the rates (the most expensive ones at this hotel). You can either go for a Luxury (88-90 sqm) or a Presidential (90 sqm) Suite. Again, each room is distinct from each other, and contemporary design is combined with ancient tradition.

In terms of pricing, double rooms are from about 300 to 330€/US$ in low season (March & April) and from about 730 to 800€/US$ in high (October – December). Breakfast is included in the rate.

Now to the room my husband and I had.

Monastery Suite

As we considered the Villa San Luigi rooms as too expensive, we went for the Monastery Suites. Ours was La Selleria (The Saddlery), number 304, on the second floor of the stable building.

This part of the hotel is a bit away from the main building. While the view of the surrounding vineyards is beautiful, it is a bit obstructed by large trees. Yet you are here in a property with a very old tree population. And that is absolutely something that has to be appreciated.

There is a pleasant living room and adjoining, a corridor with a closet. The separate bedroom is roughly equal in size. Both have a small balcony.

The bathroom has been recently updated and is nice to look at with a free-standing tub and a sink with marble finishes.

However, it turned out to be a bit on the impractical side. The shower was right next to the tub, separated from the sink by a glass wall. Every time we took a shower, we had to take care that not the whole room became flooded. While we so far felt comfortable in this room, it was not exactly a memorable experience. Should you wish one, I think it would be better to opt for one of the luxury suites at Villa San Luigi.

Gourmet Escape Package 

Along with lodging, we had booked a special package called Gourmet Escape. While I had wrongly concluded that it includes a three-course dinner at the one-star Michelin Guido da Costigliole on both days, this was not so. There is only one dinner at the resort’s signature dining-spot plus a truffle hunting

as well as a wine tasting at their Hemingway Bar.

But that was no problem for us as this gave us the chance to try out their other restaurant, too. More info about dining and activities at Relais San Maurizio Piedmont follows later.

With regard to the pricing, it did cost us 863€/US$ per day in shoulder season, which I find appropriate.

Facilities

As mentioned, there is a wonderful, extensive park on site. One of the pleasures here is simply to stroll around and gaze in wonder at the old trees. Thanks to a special microclimate you find here a splendide example of a Lebanese cedar, fir trees, larches, beech trees along with local elms.

Otherwise, the facilities at Relais San Maurizio Piedmont are top notch. In the best location, there is a great outdoor pool with a 360-degree panoramic view across the gently rolling hills of the Moscato vineyards.

Then they offer a state-of-the-art spa including indoor pool, a hot tub, a steam room, thalasso therapy in the salt grotto and treatment rooms. Of course, there is a gym, too.

Furthermore, you find here two restaurants – a Michelin starred gourmet spot and a bistro – , a bar plus a cigar room. In addition, there is a myriad of other venues. My husband and I strolled through all the historic parlors with their frescoed ceilings, wondering about their purposes and enjoying their subdued atmosphere.

Activities

If you book the before described Gourmet Escape Package, you are treated not only to a foodie meal at the one-star Michelin Restaurant Guido da Costigliole but also to two great activities.

On the one hand, the bartender lets you taste three local Barbera wines along snacks and interesting winegrowing-related stories.

On the other hand, you are in for a truffle experience. An external provider picks you up at the hotel and brings you to a truffle farm where you go on a truffle hunt.

After work is done, they serve you some local snacks topped with truffles plus wine from the area.

As to other activities, there are electric bicycles to borrow. You can do horseback riding or playing tennis. And of course you can take walks in the beautiful vineyards of the Langhe region. If you are interested in top activities in the area, come back later and check out my suggestions. I will advise on two rewarding vineyard walks, amongst others in my next blogpost.

Dining in style at Relais San Maurizio Piedmont, north Italy

As you know by know, there are two dining venues on site, the Michelin starred Guido da Costigliole and the Origini Bistrot with traditional local dishes.

1. Guido da Costigliole, a one-star Michelin gourmet restaurant

The ancient monastery’s cellar and the terrace overlooking the vineyards

are rented out to Guido da Costigliole, a restaurant of long-standing tradition in the area. Andrea Alciati and his partner Monica Magnini run it enthusiastically, with chef Luca Zecchin in the kitchen. Andrea’s parents, Guido and Lidia Alciati, opened the Da Guido in Costigliole d’Asti in 1961. Soon it became one of the most famous restaurants in Piedmont.

Andrea Alciati continues many of his parents’ traditions at Relais San Maurizio Piedmont. For example, Lidia Alciati’s signature dish, Agnolotti al Plin, is still on offer here. Otherwise, you find modernly interpreted versions of classics and a few innovative creations on the menu.

On our visit, the weather was good enough for having dinner on the Monterosa terrace. We passed the open kitchen

where friendly staff greeted us and stepped on the wooden deck. In this outdoor restaurant with candle lanterns you have splendid views of the lightly rolling Langhe hills. And this is a spectacular setting indeed! You sit her in awe, enjoying a fine dinner and witnessing the beautiful sunset. Alternatively, if the weather does not permit it, you have dinner in the exposed-brick vaulted dining-room.

Three-course dinner at Restaurant Guido da Costigliole

As indicated, we were in for three courses as part of the Gourmet Escape Package we had booked. Upon sitting down, they placed a plate with delicious snacks in front of us.

We were also told that we could make a free choice of three courses from the menu. Of course, we wanted to try the mentioned house specialty, the Agnolotti al Plin.

They offer this filled pasta dish in two kinds of preparation. On the one hand, there is the classic al tovagliolo version. In an old Piedmontese tradition, the agnolotti are presented in a cloth napkin (tovagliolo) with no sauce to the household head. This in order to get an approval from this person before serving the pasta to all the people present. On the other hand, the agnolotti come with al sugo di arrosto, a sauce made from the drippings of roast meat. My husband and I decided to order the agnolotti with the sauce, which were absolutely fabulous. And imagine, they brought us a tasting of the first version, too.

For main, we had sturgeon with caviar and Mugnaia sauce, which is made from butter, flour and lemon.

For dessert, we had the restaurant’s take on Tiramisù.

The meal was delightful and so was the scenery, watching the sunset over the vineyards and the hills that surrounded us.

The setting at Origini Bistrot‘s outdoor area is a bit less spectacular compared to Guido da Costigliole’s terrace.

Notwithstanding that, it is a pleasant place to have dinner. Also the indoors are nice, a romantic old fresco room.

As to the food, the name says it all, they returned to their origins to rediscover original recipes.

Young Asti chef Romeo Morelli is at work at this bistro. He offers his guests traditional dishes using local produce and preparing them with care. My husband and I shared a starter, beef carpaccio,

and then opted for pasta. Mine was with pesto, his was with rabbit ragout.

For main, we both went for a meat dish. While I had lamb with aubergine jam and almond cream, my husband chose duck with pears and apricot chutney.

We ended the dinner with a creation made of chocolate, milk and hazelnut, which we shared amongst the both of us.

I would judge the food quality at Origini Bistrot as solid but unexceptional. There was not really anything to criticize, but nothing that stood out either.

Overall

Hotel Relais San Maurizio near Alba in the Piedmont wine region was the second stop of a journey through north Italy and south France that my husband and took in late summer. For the itinerary, have a look here. This luxury hotel, housed in an ancient monastery and surrounded by vineyards, offers a lot in terms of infrastructure. From two restaurants – one of them Michelin starred – and a great panoramic pool to an excellent spa and plenty of activity opportunities, everything is there. And on the premises, find also a splendid park with old trees, perfect for a stroll.

This hotel is ideally situated for exploring the Langhe wine region.

Find top things to do here, which all involve walking, in my next blogpost.

Looking back and forward

My husband and I came from Lake Orta in northern Italy, where we started our trip in Orta San Giulio (see what to do here).

We stayed at the fabulous Villa Crespi and dined at its two-star Michelin restaurant (my post).

After visiting the Moscato vineyards near Alba in the Piedmont region, we headed to Alassio on the Ligurian sea west of Genua (hotel/activities). Then we continued to the south of France, where we stayed at two different places (French Riviera hills – hotel, what to do – and Provence), before returning to Switzerland via a stop south of Lyon.

As to our travel style, staying and dining in style are top priorities for us – provided it is worth the expense. And we like to explore the area on foot whenever possible. For the 11-day itinerary of our Italy and France trip, have a look here.

Date of stay: August 2021

Pin it for later

The post Staying & dining in style at Relais San Maurizio in Piedmont/Italy first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Staying & dining in style at Relais San Maurizio in Piedmont/Italy appeared first on Swiss Traveler.